New Yorker WC 90

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hotblast1357
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Stoker Coal Boiler: 1984 Eshland S260 coal gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite pea
Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace

Post by hotblast1357 » Mon. Apr. 13, 2015 2:09 pm

My original plan was to run 1/1/4 too my manifolds, then 1" ports off my manifolds and 1" lines going to the heat exchanger, modine, DHW. And hot tub, do I need that big of pumping? I will be running taco 007's on each loop. Can I do 1" to my manifolds, and 3/4" loops?


 
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Scottscoaled
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Post by Scottscoaled » Mon. Apr. 13, 2015 7:07 pm

Your heat exchanger is by far the biggest load. 1" for that and 3/4" to anything else. Just use 1" pump flanges off the manifold and use 3/4" off the other side of the pumps where you need to.

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Mon. Apr. 13, 2015 8:02 pm

Ok that would save me a good deal as the heat exchanger is only 15 feet away.

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Mon. Apr. 13, 2015 8:45 pm

Well after doing the math, it wouldn't make a difference, I'm only gonna save maybe 60-100 dollars reducing things from the 1" down too 3/4". I might as well go with 1". I can always slow it down with valves.

 
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Scottscoaled
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Post by Scottscoaled » Mon. Apr. 13, 2015 8:52 pm

I got a 100 gallon water tank you could use as a "buffer" tank. Would help you run a little easier during the summer and shoulder seasons.

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Mon. Apr. 13, 2015 9:09 pm

Thanks Scott, would this be used as a dump zone?

 
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Post by Scottscoaled » Mon. Apr. 13, 2015 9:15 pm

Cooler fire longer, or hotter fire shorter. I'm not sure how to explain it or the right way to hook it up though. It might allow you to run a smaller, steady fire during the shoulder seasons. Store heat during the day when it get's warmer and use it at night when your heating needs would be greater. The wood guys use them.


 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Mon. Apr. 13, 2015 9:39 pm

I've heard of the wood guys using them, I think it is so that they can burn wood during the night and let it go out during the day, and use the holding tank during the day.

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Tue. Apr. 14, 2015 8:48 pm

Rob R. wrote:A few thoughts for you.

You do not need to use 1.5" piping on a 90,000 btu/hr boiler. 1.25" is plenty.

Depending on the size and insulation of your garage, you may want to consider some cast iron radiators or even fin-tube baseboard instead of a modine.

Do not put a check valve in the bypass, use a ball or gate valve.

I don't see a circulator in the diagram. I am a fan of "pumping away" on oil units or stokers, but for a hand-fed boiler I would put it on the return. You can use some normally open zone valves on the supply side, that way when the power goes out they open and the boiler doesn't overheat.

Use a 4006B to control the dump zone, you will need it.
Why should I use a valve instead of a check valve? Won't the water flow the other way possibly?

 
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Post by StokerDon » Tue. Apr. 14, 2015 9:16 pm

There is no need for a check valve, the hot water will always come out the top. A ball valve will give you a way to adjust the flow of the bypass. Also a good idea if you need to isolate the supply from the return for a repair.

-Don

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Wed. Apr. 15, 2015 5:18 am

StokerDon wrote:Also a good idea if you need to isolate the supply from the return for a repair.

-Don
So if I have a repair I don't have too kill the fire?

 
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Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut and whatever will fit through the door on the Harman
Other Heating: Noth'in but COAL! Well, Maybe a little tiny bit of wood

Post by StokerDon » Wed. Apr. 15, 2015 8:08 pm

I don't think you could get away with that! I think the point is, a few well placed valves can make it not nessicary to drain the boiler to make a repair. The problem is valves cost money. As you are likely finding out right now, plumbing a boiler is way more expensive than hooking up a hot air furnace. You need to balance ease of repair with cost of parts (valves, unions).

-Don

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Wed. Apr. 15, 2015 8:44 pm

Yes it is more expensive! But it's not terrible, not for the added luxuries of a boiler system.

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Fri. Apr. 17, 2015 5:21 pm

What about monitoring my temps, I have one gauge on the face of the boiler, do I want one on my supply and return pipe or one on each supply and return for each zone?

 
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Post by McGiever » Fri. Apr. 17, 2015 6:49 pm

I have all of them...on each zone on the wall and on the supply and the return at the boiler.

If you want to know all those temps and will read them on occasion, then it's only a matter of money and installation. :idea:


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