If there is still heat available in the return line,why not feed the 2nd unit with the return from the first unit ?hotblast1357 wrote:I am installing a second water to air heater in the garage this weekend, what's the best way to plumb it in? Do I want to give it its own supply and return, or just hook it up off the return of the other heater?
New Yorker WC 90
- windyhill4.2
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- hotblast1357
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Idk, I didn't know if it mattered, the modine in there now only pulls about 10-14 degrees out of the water, but this second one might pull more. I might down the road install radiators or something in the garage, so maybe it would be better to have another feed and return.
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Hope you ran 1" pex out there.
Could have mini headers, then you're set for 2nd modine and for future rads too.
Could have mini headers, then you're set for 2nd modine and for future rads too.
- hotblast1357
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Yes it's all 1" pex.
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for the month of Feb I burned 1850 pounds, making the season total so far 7038 pounds.
I got the other modine installed will post pics later on.
I got the other modine installed will post pics later on.
- hotblast1357
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so this is how my boiler by-pass is piped, it is before my pump, what kind of effects should I see when using this? it has a shut off in it. whether it is shut, half open, or wide open, it doesnt seem to make a difference?
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What is the pipe diameter for the bypass vs. the boiler inlet and outlet? What difference are you expecting to see? My thought is that if you want to see tempering the bypass leg should go from the discharge side of the pump to the return line.hotblast1357 wrote:so this is how my boiler by-pass is piped, it is before my pump, what kind of effects should I see when using this? it has a shut off in it. whether it is shut, half open, or wide open, it doesnt seem to make a difference?
- hotblast1357
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Everything is 1/1/4".
Idk what to expect, but thought something would happen, do I simply not need it?
Idk what to expect, but thought something would happen, do I simply not need it?
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With a handfired I would think a bypass like that would help to keep the boiler temps more stable. On the other hand, if I remember correctly, you don't exactly have a normal system. I believe your system has constant flow already, no flow checks or zone valves, so maybe it isn't necessary?hotblast1357 wrote:Everything is 1/1/4".
Idk what to expect, but thought something would happen, do I simply not need it?
So my guess would be that, in your case, the bypass only serves to slightly temper the return flow back into the boiler.
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It's hooked up right. Close the return to the boiler and see what happens.
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I should elaborate on that a bit. By allowing the entire system to gravity circulate, the bypass loop doesn't have the normal job of preventing stratification in the boiler. Also, if there is no valve in the return between the boiler and the bypass, there is no way to throttle the return and send more water through the bypass.Rob R. wrote:The way you have everything hooked up it is probably doing nothing.
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My system does gravity flow.
that makes sense about shutting the return valve some, it will force the pump to take the water from the return instead of the boiler.
If I can lower my aqua stat though and still satisfy everything, wouldn't that be the same?
that makes sense about shutting the return valve some, it will force the pump to take the water from the return instead of the boiler.
If I can lower my aqua stat though and still satisfy everything, wouldn't that be the same?
- hotblast1357
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With the second modine installed in the garage, and the feed and returns piped correctly, I'm running the aquastat at 175 and instead of 180, everything is satisfying quick. I even turned the t stay up in the garage from 55-60 just to see how it does.
So my modines are single coil exchangers, I plumbed my first on hot in the top, cold out the bottom, just like my multiple cool exchanger is in my house, but I couldn't ever get 20 degree differential, I did some research and plumbed them both the other way, hot in the bottom cold out the top and now I'm getting 18-20 differential out of both.
So my modines are single coil exchangers, I plumbed my first on hot in the top, cold out the bottom, just like my multiple cool exchanger is in my house, but I couldn't ever get 20 degree differential, I did some research and plumbed them both the other way, hot in the bottom cold out the top and now I'm getting 18-20 differential out of both.