New Yorker WC 90

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hotblast1357
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Location: Peasleeville NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1984 Eshland S260 coal gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite pea
Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace

Post by hotblast1357 » Fri. Apr. 17, 2015 7:58 pm

Thanks mcgiever, what do u use for gauges? Are they mounted in tee's?


 
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McGiever
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Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Fri. Apr. 17, 2015 8:21 pm

I have some old liquid thermometers and some new dial model.
Yes in tees...try to not to have multiple pipe bushing/reducers as they will add up some length and raise the sensor probe up out of true temp flow stream. :idea:

 
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hotblast1357
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Joined: Mon. Mar. 10, 2014 10:06 pm
Location: Peasleeville NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1984 Eshland S260 coal gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite pea
Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace

Post by hotblast1357 » Sat. Apr. 18, 2015 8:16 am

Well performing a leak test this morning, the boiler is full of water and at 24 psi, set at 8:00 a.m.

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StokerDon
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Location: PA, Southern York County!
Stoker Coal Boiler: Gentleman Janitor GJ-5, Van Wert VA-600, Axeman Anderson130 X3.
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Harman SF3500 reduced down to 3 grates connected to its own plenum
Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut and whatever will fit through the door on the Harman
Other Heating: Noth'in but COAL! Well, Maybe a little tiny bit of wood

Post by StokerDon » Sat. Apr. 18, 2015 9:21 am

Are you just testing the boiler? Or do you have the plumbing hooked up?

-Don

 
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hotblast1357
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Joined: Mon. Mar. 10, 2014 10:06 pm
Location: Peasleeville NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1984 Eshland S260 coal gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite pea
Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace

Post by hotblast1357 » Sat. Apr. 18, 2015 9:29 am

I am just testing the boiler for obvious leaks, I can already tell I need a new PRV because this old one is seaping, an some of the plug I put it are seaping, but I just wanted to make sure there was no cracks in the welds of the boiler, everything is still dry an hour and a half later.

 
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hotblast1357
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Posts: 5657
Joined: Mon. Mar. 10, 2014 10:06 pm
Location: Peasleeville NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1984 Eshland S260 coal gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite pea
Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace

Post by hotblast1357 » Sat. Apr. 18, 2015 11:49 am

It's in its resting place.

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StokerDon
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Posts: 7486
Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 11:17 am
Location: PA, Southern York County!
Stoker Coal Boiler: Gentleman Janitor GJ-5, Van Wert VA-600, Axeman Anderson130 X3.
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Harman SF3500 reduced down to 3 grates connected to its own plenum
Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut and whatever will fit through the door on the Harman
Other Heating: Noth'in but COAL! Well, Maybe a little tiny bit of wood

Post by StokerDon » Sat. Apr. 18, 2015 7:18 pm

Nice!

Now you can start the plumbing!

-Don


 
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hotblast1357
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Stoker Coal Boiler: 1984 Eshland S260 coal gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite pea
Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace

Post by hotblast1357 » Sat. Apr. 18, 2015 8:12 pm

Yes hopefully this week I wil be able too start.

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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Sun. Apr. 19, 2015 5:30 am

Is there a specific reason you have the boiler so high off the floor? I like to put them on 4" blocks so that no dampness can get trapped underneath, but you have taken things to a whole new level.

Do you have experience sweating copper?

 
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hotblast1357
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Joined: Mon. Mar. 10, 2014 10:06 pm
Location: Peasleeville NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1984 Eshland S260 coal gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite pea
Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace

Post by hotblast1357 » Sun. Apr. 19, 2015 7:01 am

It is that high off the ground for one, because it makes tending a lot easier, and two, it makes my stoves pipe almost horizontal, there is a slight upward pitch, I did this because I am installing two barometric dampers in this system too keep the boiler at .04. If I only run the one like I did on my hotblast it will overdraft most of the winter. It looks a little different I know but it's all about ease of operation. I have worked with copper a little, but the only soldering I have to do is the connection to the heat exchanger and to the modine if I decide to go that route in the garage.

 
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McGiever
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Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Sun. Apr. 19, 2015 10:04 am

Looking at your pictures, looks like the boiler is out aways from any walls...not a bad thing.
But, if it's not too far of a distance, it's nice to extend the supply and return pipes and build the zone headers and to also have the associated power and control wiring onto a wall mount location. The plus side is that then the parts all mounted to pre-painted plywood have great structural support compared to buiding piping supported off pipe nipples off the boiler only. The make-up water, expansion tank and air removal all then gets away from hanging maybe someday dripping over top the boiler too. All this does add a little more pipe and cost, but if using black steel threaded pipe is not much more cost at all. :)

I'll say it again, even though others already have...plan to have unions at strategic locations and having a union does little good if you cannot shut off a valve to contain the system...plan to have valves for isolation throughout for any componet removal/replacement. Understand how to plumb each zone to enable to "power purge" to initially flush all the air from each single zone immediately after the first cold water fill-up. And a high point vent for quickly filling the system...water is only going to go in as fast as the air is coming out.:idea:

 
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hotblast1357
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Posts: 5657
Joined: Mon. Mar. 10, 2014 10:06 pm
Location: Peasleeville NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1984 Eshland S260 coal gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite pea
Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace

Post by hotblast1357 » Sun. Apr. 19, 2015 10:18 am

Mcgiever, great advice. That is my plan. In the last pic posted, you see too the right of the boiler is a support post that is at the end of the concrete, this is where I am going to put up a half wall out of plywood too hang the manifolds, pumps and electrical controls so that it is away from the boiler about 8 feet. I am putting unions at the feed and return with shut offs placed correctly so that I can remove the boiler if necessary. There will be shut offs before and after each pump, and on each feed line coming off the manifold, my system will have the pumps on the return. The shut offs on each loop will help in throttling each zone. Can you explain to me power purging.

 
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McGiever
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Posts: 10130
Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Sun. Apr. 19, 2015 10:29 am

This will likely need a picture to illustrate...but here's the text,
Oops,
Time out, you setup will be backwards from what I was about to describe since your pump(s) will be on the return rather than on the supply...scratching head :?: :?: :?:

Water/air would all get purged into boiler vessel irregardless...may not be possible to do other than out the high point vent (1/2").
Last edited by McGiever on Sun. Apr. 19, 2015 10:45 am, edited 1 time in total.

 
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hotblast1357
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Posts: 5657
Joined: Mon. Mar. 10, 2014 10:06 pm
Location: Peasleeville NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1984 Eshland S260 coal gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite pea
Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace

Post by hotblast1357 » Sun. Apr. 19, 2015 10:41 am

So a long as I leave my vent on my air scoop open for a while it should get the air out of my system, if I understand correctly.

 
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McGiever
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Posts: 10130
Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Sun. Apr. 19, 2015 10:51 am

hotblast1357 wrote:So a long as I leave my vent on my air scoop open for a while it should get the air out of my system, if I understand correctly.
Power purge is fast, scoop does it but it is best for removing air bubbles, not for filling the system there is a lot of air to get rid of. :!:
Pumps and air don't play well together.


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