Really Getting Tired of the BS With the Multiple Screwheads

Any of the tool truck guys will have one or you can order up a set. The Snap-on set is pretty pricey. Idiot emission-sensitive bunny huggers mandated the security mode. Next time you are in a public rest room anywhere, you will see all the fasteners for the booths are security fasteners. I've been around for quite a while, and have never seen or heard of a bathroom stall being stolen. Possible, but unlikely. They aren't very strong, so plan on a spare set if you are doing more mischievous stuff than airflow sensors.

gaw wrote:All I want to know is how you can live as many years as you have and this is the first time you have ever encountered a security or tamper resistant torx? You do need to get out more.

The only thing I have really worked on that might have them is my car and computers. The newest car I have ever had is the current one which is 2002. I build my own computers so I don't install lame ass screw heads for no reason.

whistlenut wrote:Any of the tool truck guys will have one or you can order up a set. The Snap-on set is pretty pricey.

I got a 33 piece set that includes hex, some kind of offset phillips, flathead and a few others.

$5.98

Nice. Cleaning the MAF sensor element with some electronics cleaner is often a cheap fix for a variety of problems.

What code(s) did you pull from the computer?

Rick 386 wrote:

Freddy wrote:On top of all that.... they break! Twice now I have broken a "security bit" while trying to remove a fastener. Grrrrr. A hole in the center removes their strength.

Yes indeed. The hole certainly takes away their strength.

Hey Richard........my Snap-On guy comes in here on Wednesdays. I can probably get you a whole set for $350.00.......

Rick

All fixed ! Ha, special screw indeed !

Rob R. wrote:Nice. Cleaning the MAF sensor element with some electronics cleaner is often a cheap fix for a variety of problems.

I read you should probably do it every time you change the air filter.

In any event everything has to be an adventure with me. Cleaned the censor, took it for a spin and the light is still on. Parked the car and when I came back to start it.... click.... AND the damn key is now stuck in the ignition because it won't turn back. A true WTF moment. There is a little cap under the steering wheel, you only need to put screwdriver in there to release it.

I've been working on my car for few days doing some Spring cleaning so I'm figuring the battery is dead from the ;lights being on so much. Battery is at 12.9 so I charged, still nothing...

Plan B, I had to replace the starter like two weeks after I bought it so I'm figuring maybe my new starter is bad. Gave it a few taps and still nothing, I'm not even getting a click now.

I start looking around , reconnected the MAF... try the battery terminals and what do you know the neg terminal is just a little loose. Took it off and it was corroded really bad. Cleaned it and the positive, varoooooooooom. Light is off now too. Not sure if that solved the problem so I'll have to see if it comes back on.

What code(s) did you pull from the computer?

p0172 which could be multiple things. MAF, oxygen sensor, injectors, vacum leak, exhaust leak and half a dozen other things.... Lot of help that was and it didn't include anything about voltage problems. I was just going through the list of things that were easy first and probably should be done anyway. Fixed for the moment, I'll have to wait and see.

Check the fuel pressure.

Rob R. wrote:Check the fuel pressure.

At this point in time the light is off....

"Lot of help that was and it didn't include anything about voltage problems"

Low voltage often causes a bunch of weird codes that mean nothing. Newer cars are worse when your battery gets low.

Richard S. wrote:, some kind of offset phillips,

I used those on the airplanes when I was in the Air Force. They can apply more torque to the fastener than a normal Phillips can.

mozz wrote: Low voltage often causes a bunch of weird codes that mean nothing. Newer cars are worse when your battery gets low.

I had no battery light on, if it's going to cause issues with senors perhaps the battery light should come on. Am I nuts?

Like I said I don't know if it actually fixed the issue but I guess I'll know in a few days.

Richard S. wrote:

Rob R. wrote:Check the fuel pressure.

At this point in time the light is off....

You removed one of the battery cable and reset the ECU. You won't really know if the issue is resolved until it has been through a complete drive cycle. Hopefully it is fixed.

Yep - thank the gov't EPA for that shitstorm of electronics. The drive cycle on GM's is completely impossible for anyone living east of the Mississippi ... Have to just drive a combo of city and highway for about a week before all the monitors run. Damn OBD-II - welcome to my world, Richard ...

Tamper-proof Torx. They've been out for a long time now. I bought my first set of tamper-proof Torx bits off Northern Tool about 14 years ago so I could service motorcycle ignition switches. They were green - forget the brand, but their lifetime warranty is USELESS. Northern wouldn't replace the broken one, and countless calls to the manufacturer fell on deaf ears. They will never call you back in hopes you will go away. Don't buy any green colored Torx keys off Northern!

The fact they put one of those on a MAF sensor tells me automakers don't want anyone under the hood anymore. It's getting to the point where manufacturers may someday succeed in passing legislation that keeps you out from under there. They can pass all the legislation they want - I'll never buy a new vehicle again as long as I live. I'm friggin DONE with electronics. Next time I have a payment, it will be on something I buy off Barret Jackson .. if I win the lotto ... to afford the payments.

This is a very amusing read....sorry Richard.

Kevin

KLook wrote:This is a very amusing read....sorry Richard.

Kevin

If it didn't come on a coal lift I never seen it. LOL... I'm sure I've seen them before, just never took notice of the pin.