DHW Coil or Indirect Water Tank?

Don't forget being able to use other fuels is a plus too

Lightning wrote:Don't forget being able to use other fuels is a plus too

That is probably the biggest reason why I didn't go with a stoked, I can't burn wood in it, this is only my second season burning, who knows what's gonna happen in the next 5 years with coal price and availability here, I know I can get wood.

so ive been lit since 9/26 and with using the dhw coil feeding the electric tank, it has not come on since, and ive been burning 28 pounds per day, or 948 pounds for the month of October, and that is with numerous calls for heat from the house and garage, doing pretty good for a hand fed, 12-24 hour tends.

Can someone point me to the direction of a small pump for potable water that I can run on a timer or something to circulate the water in my electric tank through my coil?

Thanks.

thanks rob!

Rob's suggestions are good ones. I presume you are stepping up from natural / thermal circulation. Is this correct? If so, you won't need much of a circulator to move a small amount of water better than thermal siphoning alone.

No, currently I am city water into my coil then out to my cold inlet of the electric water tank, I think it would function better if I put a circulator in and piped it accordingly.

hotblast1357 wrote:No, currently I am city water into my coil then out to my cold inlet of the electric water tank, I think it would function better if I put a circulator in and piped it accordingly.

A zone valve, circulator, and aquastat will work better, but at a cost. The main difference that I can see is that you will account for (mitigate) the HWT's standby losses. But these should be only on the order of about 5% for a decently insulated tank. The gains may not be what you expect. That leads to: What do you expect to gain?

If in the process you are shutting off the HWT's heat source, then there will also be potential $$ energy gains that way. Is that part of the plan?

the way its set up now works fine, the electric elements never come on, unless we don't use water for a day. (rare) but my boiler sits idle all day and all night not seeing any action, because no hot water is being used, so I want to put a small circulator in and re plumb it so that the boiler see's more action.

(I am bored) lol

hotblast1357 wrote:the way its set up now works fine, the electric elements never come on, unless we don't use water for a day. (rare) but my boiler sits idle all day and all night not seeing any action, because no hot water is being used, so I want to put a small circulator in and re plumb it so that the boiler see's more action.

(I am bored) lol

Since you already have no energy besides that from your boiler going into your HWT, my first guess is that if you do not maximally insulate the circulator and the HWT loop, you will lose dollars in the long run.

its only 10 feet away from the boiler.

Where do you expect to gain?

Less of a shock on the boiler from the cold city water, and a hotter reserve.

By this I assume that you will be eliminating the coil in this process.