Not Enough Hot Water From 520

 
waldo lemieux
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Post by waldo lemieux » Thu. Jun. 18, 2015 11:45 am

McGiever wrote: install and the problem came about after some duration of satifactory performance.
I find it difficult to believe that was ever the case.
hophead wrote:Sorry but the 520 is not in any way suited for what your intentions are no matter what these other fellows are telling you. It ain't gonna work :!:
While the 520 can crank out the required BTU's that coil couldnt possibly remove them and send them through fast enough. The coil in an indirect (surface area) is an order of magnitude larger than the factory coil and with four units it might struggle to keep up with demand. unless you had one with 100 gals of storage.

Too, you don't have to spend 2k to get one of the indirects, I just bought a brand new amtrol 40 gal on craigslist for 600 and a 2 yr old unit of the same model for 200. I looked for a while but I found them...

waldo

ps. if ya want, pm Bird Dog( swpadon ) hes good at finding stuff :D


 
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Post by SWPaDon » Thu. Jun. 18, 2015 12:00 pm

Brand new never used 850.00: **Broken Link(S) Removed**

42 gallon 250.00: **Broken Link(S) Removed**

80 gallon, brand new 1450.00 shipped: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Laars-Stor-80-Gallon-Stor ... 5#shpCntId

 
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Post by Pacowy » Thu. Jun. 18, 2015 12:29 pm

I'd like to hear the real-world experience of the people who say the coil can't produce approximately up to its rated capacity. I've provided DHW for a family of 8, including a bunch of teenagers, with a coil in a loafing EFM 900. Not sure what the point is in telling the OP he has to spend a bunch on an indirect when he has not come close to reaching the capability of the setup he already has.

Mike

 
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Post by hophead » Thu. Jun. 18, 2015 1:35 pm

Four rental units plus washing machines plus forty or so degree inlet water plus heat load. I'm not sure about yours but my coil is 1/2 ID PIPE. The 520 is a great unit but I haven't seen one operate yet with safe draft over fire readings in the upper ranges of feed and air. My chimney is 8' flue x 40 ft and I get reduced draft in the middle of winter above a 6 setting with both the unit and chimney clean.

 
Jeff1491
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Post by Jeff1491 » Thu. Jun. 18, 2015 2:48 pm

The boiler is only about 7 years old and it is well maintained. Im not sure if thats enough time to build up deposits on the coil.
I noticed that the line coming off the coil is only 1/2''. Is that normal ? Id rather not put a bigger load on the boiler since im using 12-18 tons per year already. The tenants never complain about heat in the winter so thats not a problem for the boiler at the settings I have it on now. Just the hot water. Im thinking about removing 1 unit from the system altogether and putting electric baseboard heaters in there plus the hot water heater to reduce the load. Id have wait till the tenant moved out though, but for now I will raise the settings and hope that is good enough.

 
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Post by waldo lemieux » Thu. Jun. 18, 2015 2:53 pm

Mike ,

my point is that no matter the output of the efm the output of the coil is not large enough. The potential hot water demand of a family of 8 in a two bath home is 1/4 the demand of four two person families in similar homes . You just cant get enough BTU's from that coil. Maybe we could get Larry to crunch the #'s for us :gee:

respectfully submitted,
waldo

jeff,
seven years is way overdue for a cleanout with that much usage....

 
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Post by McGiever » Thu. Jun. 18, 2015 2:59 pm

Jeff1491 wrote:The boiler is only about 7 years old and it is well maintained. Im not sure if thats enough time to build up deposits on the coil.
I noticed that the line coming off the coil is only 1/2''. Is that normal ? Id rather not put a bigger load on the boiler since im using 12-18 tons per year already. The tenants never complain about heat in the winter so thats not a problem for the boiler at the settings I have it on now. Just the hot water. Im thinking about removing 1 unit from the system altogether and putting electric baseboard heaters in there plus the hot water heater to reduce the load. Id have wait till the tenant moved out though, but for now I will raise the settings and hope that is good enough.
Seven years and needing the coil de-mineralized is not out of the question.

Has anything else changed in seven years, if not, then it is highly likely the minerals gradual built up.

Acid flush is a cheap fix short of adding a water softener. :)


 
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Post by Jeff1491 » Thu. Jun. 18, 2015 3:07 pm

Thanks, I will look into cleaning the coil then. The house is about 1 hour drive from me and I willnt be able to look at it for a week or 2.

 
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Post by Pacowy » Thu. Jun. 18, 2015 4:09 pm

waldo lemieux wrote:Mike ,

my point is that no matter the output of the efm the output of the coil is not large enough. The potential hot water demand of a family of 8 in a two bath home is 1/4 the demand of four two person families in similar homes . You just cant get enough BTU's from that coil. Maybe we could get Larry to crunch the #'s for us :gee:
Who has evidence that you can't get the BTU's from the coil? You can't get BTU's for 4 units if the low limit is 150, the actual temp goes lower than that on the diff and the stoker is set to idle. For the record, the house with the family of 8 had 4 full baths and a half bath, and with a low limit setting of 160 we never ran out.

Calling Larry might be useful here. As I recall, some of his numbers showed how surprisingly effective coils can be at extracting heat from boiler water. If you have data or personal experiences to share I would be all ears. but if you are assuming or repeating the assumptions of others for me it's not enough to justify advising this guy that he has to spend thousands on additional DHW equipment.

Mike

 
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Post by lsayre » Thu. Jun. 18, 2015 7:09 pm

I would be sure to install 1.5 GPM shower heads in each of the apartments. That and set your boiler to fire at 165-170 degrees would be the first two things I would try. When it comes to mixing valves I'm not even convinced that 160 degrees is sufficient on the hot side inlet.

I've got my boiler set up presently to respond when the boiler water hits 160 degrees by shutting off the circulator to the homes zones. This is a poor mans "shower priority" arrangement that as I recall came to me complements of suggestions from both Rob and Pacowy.

I'm not technically up to snuff on water to water heat transfer efficiency through a DHW coil but (with due respect to potentially tilting this thread well off topic) perhaps we can look at the example of water to air heat exchangers as an example of the tremendous efficiency differences between them (favoring the water).

The basic formulas are:
BTUH = 500 x GPM x Delta-T (for the water side of the exchanger)
BTUH = 1.08 x CFM x Delta-T (for air side of the exchanger)

Lets try to achieve 30,000 BTUH feeding into a water to air heat exchanger (on the water side) and then see how many CFM's of air are required to extract the same amount of heat from the exchanger and move it on into the room.

For water with a 20 degree temperature drop (classically typical of hydronic heating):
30,000 BTUH= 500 x GPM x 20
30,000 BTUH = 10,000 x GPM
GPM = 30,000/10,000
GPM = 3

For air (with 60 degrees of temperature rise above room temp, which I believe to be fairly typical of the requirements for a warm air furnace):

30,000 BTUH = 1,08 x CFM x 60
30,000 BTUH = 64.8 x CFM
CFM = 30,000/64.8
CFM = 462.963 (call it 463 CFM)

So to deliver 30,000 BTU's to a water to air heat exchanger and get a classic drop in water temp of 20 degrees requires a flow of 3 GPM simultaneous with the presence of 463 CFM of air blowing across the exchanger.

You can then scale this up (while always retaining the 20 degree water temp drop and the 60 degree air temperature rise):

60,000 BTU's = 6 GPM of water flow at a delta-t drop of 20 degrees combined with 926 CFM of air flow.
90,000 BTU's = 9 GPM of water flow at a delta-t drop of 20 degrees combined with 1,389 CFM of air flow.
120,000 BTU's = 12 GPM of water flow at a delta-t drop of 20 degrees combined with 1,852 CFM of air flow.

It turns out that for every 1 GPM of water flow you need 154 CFM of air blowing across this example heat exchanger to remove the same amount of heat. So from this you can glean that water moves heat several magnitudes more efficiently than does air, and one can surmise that water to water heat transfer is in roughly this same magnitude class as to its superiority.

Intuitively you can hold your bare hand (basically water) inside a 400 degree oven (hot air) for well more time than you can hold it in 150 degree water, and with far less damage as a result.
Last edited by lsayre on Thu. Jun. 18, 2015 8:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
waldo lemieux
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Post by waldo lemieux » Thu. Jun. 18, 2015 7:39 pm

Larry,

I knew we could count on you . Might I ask one more thing, at the end of your treatises could you include a brief summary in the least possible technical terms. For those of us with comprehension problems. :oops:

thanx,
waldo

 
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Post by lsayre » Thu. Jun. 18, 2015 8:01 pm

Well, after rethinking this, the problem is one that can be reduced to a 5 GPM coil being asked to supply DHW to 4 families. With 2 GPM shower heads, only 2 showers can be taken at the same time. With 1.5 GPM shower heads only a maximum of 3 showers can be taken at the same time.

But then along comes someone who decides to do laundry with hot water, and their clothes washer fills at 3.5 GPM, and that pert near kills it for everyone who is in the shower at the same time. Perhaps one shower taker might just eek in their shower on the mildly warm side under the circumstances.

 
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Post by whistlenut » Thu. Jun. 18, 2015 8:52 pm

I'm still telling you honyocks that a 520 won't do it, and I don't care what you have to back up your point of view. I have owned a ten unit building and an AA 260 was the heat source...as well as the domestic coil (7 gpm) was used....wait for the drum roll.......until I added a 120 gallon stone lined (SEPCO) storage tank. Even with that heat monster, it worked to do the ultimate conquest...heat; multiple showers, dish washers, and laundry. Today( 45+years later) they use the same boiler, same storage tank, with a second tank online...... utilizing a water to water heat exchanger for both tanks. All ten units can shower at once and all the other things necessary to have happy tenants. 24 tons a year doing the BTU work for 10,000 sq feet and 28 inhabitants, and a 3500 sq ft workshop.

Don't try to massage that little train to pull with the bigger boys. Yes, a 900 EFM has the nuts to make the hot water...7 GPM coil and a large reserve.......That combo WILL work as well.
Don't bring a knife to a gunfight, and expect wonderful results. That said, the rental world does NOT like to be told that you can't use the shower at specific times, nor can you use your laundry when you want to...... :shock:

Almost forgot...do you think many will tolerate the 1.0 or 1.5 gpm showerhead for long? Experience says "no way".

 
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Post by hophead » Thu. Jun. 18, 2015 9:05 pm

I'm with you Whistlenut 300%. 40 yrs in the service field gives me a common sense answer to this. Take the books and toss em. Plus I have one of my own and know what one will an will not do.

 
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Post by waldo lemieux » Thu. Jun. 18, 2015 9:09 pm

lsayre wrote:Well, after rethinking this, the problem is one that can be reduced to a 5 GPM coil being asked to supply DHW to 4 families. With 2 GPM shower heads, only 2 showers can be taken at the same time. With 1.5 GPM shower heads only a maximum of 3 showers can be taken at the same time.

But then along comes someone who decides to do laundry with hot water, and their clothes washer fills at 3.5 GPM, and that pert near kills it for everyone who is in the shower at the same time. Perhaps one shower taker might just eek in their shower on the mildly warm side under the circumstances.
Thanx Larry , even I can understand that toothy

And Doug, If I could risk summarizing; storage ,indirect or otherwise helps your existing horse power go farther..... :)


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