Gentleman Janitor GJ-51??? Project

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Sun. Aug. 23, 2015 1:53 pm

Don you can buy pex from badger by the foot you know!


 
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Post by StokerDon » Sun. Aug. 23, 2015 2:00 pm

hotblast1357 wrote:Don you can buy pex from badger by the foot you know!
Good point H.B.!

Looks like it is 56 cents per foot. Works out to $56 for 100 feet. Nice of them not to ding ya for buying less than 100 feet!

That's great because I am thinking of buying 100 feet but, I want half of that to be blue and the other half to be red.

-Don

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Sun. Aug. 23, 2015 3:05 pm

Yes that is something I wish I would of done but I rushed it!

 
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Post by StokerDon » Sun. Aug. 23, 2015 7:09 pm

Well the base paint job will be a re-do. Some of the sliver came off when I pulled the tape and I ran out of yellow before I should have. It's a bit thin in spots.

I just got done mopping some rust treatment all around the inside of the base. I don't know if I am going to paint over it or not. Hopefully this will keep it from rusting any more!

They are the ash diverters laying on the ground.
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The base repainting will have to wait until next weekend.

-Don

 
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StokerDon
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Post by StokerDon » Sun. Aug. 23, 2015 8:26 pm

McGiever wrote:
StokerDon wrote: Do we want to shut off the zone or bypass the zone?

-Don
Primary/Secondary: If it is the 1" pex that is the Primary, then you want to stop the flow out and back thru the added new set of 2 closely spaced tees in/on the Primary Loop for each of the individual zones.
By "flow out the back" I guess your telling me to put the zone valves just off the return "T"s instead of the supply?

-Don

 
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Post by McGiever » Sun. Aug. 23, 2015 10:14 pm

Out and back, just a circuit/zone. ;)

But, No, probably doesn't matter which one.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Mon. Aug. 24, 2015 5:59 am

Don, can you draw a diagram of what you are planning?

If you just install two tee's in a pipe and expect to get flow through them you will be disappointed. You would either need to serve the load with another circulator, or install the zone valves in series with your pex loop and coil/indirect.

I like the Honeywell zone vales with a terminal block, easy to wire up without a controller.


 
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Post by StokerDon » Mon. Aug. 24, 2015 6:06 pm

This is what I originally thought of as a parallel system.

Just 2 Tee's, 2 zone valves to isolate the zone not in use. This would be wired so the pump back in the garage would turn on when either zone valve opens. I would think this would work?
ParellelPlumbing Plan1.jpg
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Then I read this after you guys started talking Primary/Secondary and I didn't know what you were talking about.
http://comfort-calc.net/primary-secondary_piping_ ... orial.html

From that I came up with this plan using closely spaced Tee's. From reading the tutorial, it seems you need to use pumps instead of zone valves. Can this be done with zone valves?
ParellelPlumbingPlan2.jpg
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-Don

 
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Post by Scottscoaled » Mon. Aug. 24, 2015 6:57 pm

Your first drawing is right on. Easy to hook up, easy to wire.
Last edited by Scottscoaled on Mon. Aug. 24, 2015 7:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Post by Scottscoaled » Mon. Aug. 24, 2015 6:59 pm

To wire you need a pair to go to the TT on your aquastat. They will parallel on the aux contact on your zone valves. You also need a pair to power the zone valves with 24 volts. You will switch the power thru a t-stat first for the air handler and thru the well aquastat for the tank before you power the zone valves. You all ready have one pair that turns the pump on and off all ready right?

 
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Post by StokerDon » Mon. Aug. 24, 2015 7:08 pm

The last time I pulled the PEX through I pull two 18-2 thermostat wires so I should be good there. Air handler is currently temperature operated, so that's not a problem, it just comes on whenever the heat exchanger gets hot.

If I can parallel the TT and the zone valves that would make wiring real easy!

-Don

 
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Other Heating: Noth'in but COAL! Well, Maybe a little tiny bit of wood

Post by StokerDon » Mon. Aug. 24, 2015 7:11 pm

Scottscoaled wrote:T You all ready have one pair that turns the pump on and off all ready right?
The pump is currently run off the C1, C2 terminals on the aqua-stat.

-Don

 
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Post by Rob R. » Mon. Aug. 24, 2015 7:22 pm

Setup a 24v transformer in the basement to power the zone valves. Connect thermostat and aquastat from indirect to the proper zone valves, parallel the end switch contacts on the zone valves to the 18/2 and TT terminals on aquastat.

 
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Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut and whatever will fit through the door on the Harman
Other Heating: Noth'in but COAL! Well, Maybe a little tiny bit of wood

Post by StokerDon » Mon. Aug. 24, 2015 8:12 pm

Rob R. wrote:Setup a 24v transformer in the basement to power the zone valves. Connect thermostat and aquastat from indirect to the proper zone valves, parallel the end switch contacts on the zone valves to the 18/2 and TT terminals on aquastat.
Ah, yes, so either end switch on either zone valve will close the aquastat TT terminals activating the pump and stoker.

House T-stat to house zone valve and Boiler Mate to DHW zone valve. That should be easy to do!

-Don

 
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Post by Scottscoaled » Mon. Aug. 24, 2015 8:24 pm

StokerDon wrote:
Rob R. wrote:Setup a 24v transformer in the basement to power the zone valves. Connect thermostat and aquastat from indirect to the proper zone valves, parallel the end switch contacts on the zone valves to the 18/2 and TT terminals on aquastat.
Ah, yes, so either end switch on either zone valve will close the aquastat TT terminals activating the pump and stoker.

House T-stat to house zone valve and Boiler Mate to DHW zone valve. That should be easy to do!

-Don
Yes! I guess I don't say it right!


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