Gentleman Janitor GJ-51??? Project

Last night I decided I would paint the inside of the base with Hi-Temp Silver. It came out real nice.
All taped up and ready for more yellow! -Don

There it is. All painted, finally!
There are a few spots where the paint had a little trouble sticking on. Oh well, that's as pretty as it's gonna git!

-Don

Next up are the rest of the stoker parts for the EFM. That's most of the parts that get painted right there.
Tomorrow I will final clean them then figure out what gets painted what color.

-Don

Dang Don,,,,,That sure is a lot of parts to have left over. I usually only have a nut and bolt or two!

These are a bit more complicated than the Yellow Flame!

-Don

Most of the EFM stoker parts are now painted.
Cleaned up the hardware and painted it silver. All the mechanical bits that don't get painted are soaking in ATF until assembly. The cast iron stoker spacer is Hi-Heat black. I still need to do a good bit of cleaning before the motor gets painted. -Don

Did I get the right zone valve???

I got Honeywell V8043E1137/U, Motorized Valve, Removable Power Head, 24V 50/60Hz, 10 CV, 1" NPT, Auto Recycle. That 1" NPT hole gets necked down to about 1/2" by the looks of it. Is that going to be a problem? I just don't like seeing big flow restrictions in anything. I'm just wondering if I'm going to get my 80,000BTU through that little hole to my heat exchanger???

Anybody know?

-Don

That's a trick perpetrated by the valve manufacturers to confuse us DIY heating guys. No actually it's called the Venturi effect. The water speeds up really fast to go thru the orifice without losing flow rate.

Scottscoaled wrote:That's a trick perpetrated by the valve manufacturers to confuse us DIY heating guys. No actually it's called the Venturi effect. The water speeds up really fast to go thru the orifice without losing flow rate.

Wow! OK, I didn't know that one. So the hole is a lot smaller but we don't loose any flow.

Then these zone valves should work just fine.

Thank's Scott!

-Don

Scottscoaled wrote:That's a trick perpetrated by the valve manufacturers to confuse us DIY heating guys. No actually it's called the Venturi effect. The water speeds up really fast to go thru the orifice without losing flow rate.

Well said. I have some on my system with an orifice half that size.

Don, I prefer the valves with the screw terminals but the ones with a pigtail work fine also. Get yourself a 24v transformer and you will be in business.

Do you really intend to (or even need to) push 8 GPM of 180 degree water through a single zone valve? That is what is required to extract 80,000 BTU's from a user (heat exchanger) which exhibits the classic 20 degree temperature drop across it.

lsayre wrote:Do you really intend to (or even need to) push 8 GPM of 180 degree water through a single zone valve? That is what is required to extract 80,000 BTU's from a user (heat exchanger) which exhibits the classic 20 degree temperature drop across it.

YUP!

This is still basically the system we designed 2 years ago. The calculations were done to get 80,000 BTU to the heat exchanger through this 1" PEX snake. 8 GPM is what I came up with back then although If I remember correctly it was 170 degree water, maybe not, I should look it up. The only thing different is there will be a Tee on the supply and return so the indirect can be connected. And zone valves to control the flow through the Tee's. If both zones call at the same time it might not work so great, but it will work.

-Don

Rob R. wrote:

Scottscoaled wrote:That's a trick perpetrated by the valve manufacturers to confuse us DIY heating guys. No actually it's called the Venturi effect. The water speeds up really fast to go thru the orifice without losing flow rate.

Well said. I have some on my system with an orifice half that size.

Don, I prefer the valves with the screw terminals but the ones with a pigtail work fine also. Get yourself a 24v transformer and you will be in business.

I think I might have a transformer lay'in around. I will have to open up the Boiler Mate and hard wire it for 24 volts, that can control the DHW zone valve, no transformer needed. A transformer in series with the thermostat to control the house zone valve.

I won't have much time to work on it this week. Next week I fully intend to push hard on it. By the end of next week I want to have it all Plumbed Wired and Fired!

I did get the motor cleaned and painted over the week end. Sorry the stripes are a little crooked. The handle on the ash door finally freed up after a few weeks of hose'in Blaster on it. The fire door handle still needs more. The box of parts that need to be De-rusted, cleaned and painted has dwindled to just about noth'in. -Don

StokerDon wrote:

lsayre wrote:Do you really intend to (or even need to) push 8 GPM of 180 degree water through a single zone valve? That is what is required to extract 80,000 BTU's from a user (heat exchanger) which exhibits the classic 20 degree temperature drop across it.

YUP!

This is still basically the system we designed 2 years ago. The calculations were done to get 80,000 BTU to the heat exchanger through this 1" PEX snake. 8 GPM is what I came up with back then although If I remember correctly it was 170 degree water, maybe not, I should look it up. The only thing different is there will be a Tee on the supply and return so the indirect can be connected. And zone valves to control the flow through the Tee's. If both zones call at the same time it might not work so great, but it will work.

-Don

You were right Larry. I used 180 degrees for the "Average Fluid Temperature" when I did the calculations 2 years ago. I used the Taco pump guide. http://s3.supplyhouse.com/manuals/1350570919940/8 ... D_FILE.pdf

It will be interesting to see if it can keep up in the very cold weather.

-Don