Whats the Best Coal Chute?
- hotblast1357
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This is true, I don't see how the duct work piping could rot away though, my ductwork in the basement is not rusted.
- oliver power
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I've re-lined my gravity wagon with galvanized sheet metal twice. Trust me, it'll rot away in a year or two. Maybe not so if using as chute, then cleaned, and put up high & dry. But, if coal, or coal dust is left on it, it Will rust/rot. Too bad you didn't live a little closer to me, I'd bend you up a chute. I don't think you'll find duct work that long. Maybe??? Here's another thought; How about picking up a play ground slide. You might find one long enough to do what you want.hotblast1357 wrote:This is true, I don't see how the duct work piping could rot away though, my ductwork in the basement is not rusted.
Last edited by oliver power on Mon. Jul. 06, 2015 2:00 am, edited 4 times in total.
- hotblast1357
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- Location: Peasleeville NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1984 Eshland S260 coal gun
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite pea
- Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace
Oh ya I'm sure with coal on it 24/7 the moisture and what not will cause rust.
- oliver power
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I've GOT IT......In your neck of the woods, Find a contractor with a standing seam roof panel machine. They'll run you out any length you want.hotblast1357 wrote:Oh ya I'm sure with coal on it 24/7 the moisture and what not will cause rust.
- hotblast1357
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- Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace
Hmm that could work.. I'm gonna give the pipe a try now.
- Sunny Boy
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I'd make it out of 1x12 bottom with 1x6 sides screwed and glued to the sides of the 1x12. That should give you a 12 x 5 shute.
Then tack, or staple, one long piece of aluminum roof flashing to one side, push it down into the corners and tack it to the other side. The lower corners don't have to be 90 degrees, just kinda close.
Much lighter, and it would still be strong for support over longer unsupported lengths.
Paul
Then tack, or staple, one long piece of aluminum roof flashing to one side, push it down into the corners and tack it to the other side. The lower corners don't have to be 90 degrees, just kinda close.
Much lighter, and it would still be strong for support over longer unsupported lengths.
Paul
- hotblast1357
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- Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace
That would work, I'm gonna have to check with the guy too see if he has a chute.
- Sunny Boy
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Even better yet!hotblast1357 wrote:That would work, I'm gonna have to check with the guy too see if he has a chute.
Paul
- SWPaDon
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Do not use wood on a 38 degree pitch.......it will not work...........period ! If I get some fines on my 45 degree pitch mine backs up, then I need to move it by hand.
- hotblast1357
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Don't worry I will not use wood unless I'm going to line it with something.
- Richard S.
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How are you going to support it? One thing to remember here is you might have a few hundred pounds in your chute. If it gets stopped for any reason such as the bin is full you're going to have a lot more. Aluminum coal chutes are very thick, not sure what it is but at least double that of ducts. Probably something like 3/32 and it's like the highest grade aluminum you can get, there is very thick aluminum rails on the sides. I've seen them bend in half when the coal has been stopped up. It's like watching $200 bucks go up in smoke instantly.hotblast1357 wrote:What about galvanized ductwork piping? very slick stuff, I will have to do a test run with I get home.
It will rust, may take a few times but will rust. You're running a lot of coal over and that is abrasive. One other thing, any ding or dent will eventually form a hole.
If you're going to make this your best bet is probably PVC becsue you get the strength and it's going to last.
- Richard S.
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Your ductwork doesn't have tons of abrasive material running over it.hotblast1357 wrote: my ductwork in the basement is not rusted.
- Richard S.
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One thing to make sure is anywhere you are using fasteners is not where the coal will run over it. It's going to slow it down a little but more importantly it's going to put a hole in it. It probably wouldn't take very long at all with a thin piece of aluminum that isn't high grade.Sunny Boy wrote: Then tack, or staple, one long piece of aluminum roof flashing to one side, push it down into the corners and tack it to the other side.
- hotblast1357
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- Posts: 5661
- Joined: Mon. Mar. 10, 2014 10:06 pm
- Location: Peasleeville NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1984 Eshland S260 coal gun
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite pea
- Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace
Ok thanks Richard, I talked to the delivery guy and his chute is only 5 feet long, so I have to build one, I have the frame made out of 2x4's, and started lining it with duct work but sliced my thumb open and now am in the hospital for stitches, lol the heck with the duct work!! Pvc would be the easiest but idk how I can go from his flat chute to the round pipe, I have the street signs I can cut to line the frame with, it is a lot thicker and will last longer than the galvanized. I will have to have to brainstorm this.
- Richard S.
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- Location: NEPA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Van Wert VA1200
- Coal Size/Type: Buckwheat/Anthracite
He's not a delivery guy then. Bare minimum on most coal delivery trucks is going to be about 30 feet.hotblast1357 wrote:Ok thanks Richard, I talked to the delivery guy and his chute is only 5 feet long, so I have to build one,
If he was setup he'd have what is called the short chute that funnels down to about 5 inches. I even went beyond that and had SS chute made that I could slide right into clay pipes which was common. That said I'd just block up the regular chute so half of it was lined up with the pipe, angle the chute, let it out slow and the coal will all move to the one side of the chute into a stream a few inches wide.Pvc would be the easiest but idk how I can go from his flat chute to the round pipe,
Again once it's gets rusty it's not going to run over it very well.I have the street signs I can cut to line the frame with, it is a lot thicker and will last longer than the galvanized.