Radiant Home 018
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- Member
- Posts: 4837
- Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
- Location: Elkhart county, IN.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
Soooooooooooooooooooo nice !!
way to stick with it. do you even remember the feeling you had when the draw center snapped anymore ? thought not
even without a chimney or fire I could sit and look at that stove for hours.
steve
way to stick with it. do you even remember the feeling you had when the draw center snapped anymore ? thought not
even without a chimney or fire I could sit and look at that stove for hours.
steve
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25547
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
The stove looks fantastic !!!!!!
If I may ask, who did the plating ?
And for anyone who wonders if their broken grates can be used to cast new grates, here's proof. Al at Tomahawk does good work.
Paul
If I may ask, who did the plating ?
And for anyone who wonders if their broken grates can be used to cast new grates, here's proof. Al at Tomahawk does good work.
Paul
- freetown fred
- Member
- Posts: 30293
- Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
- Location: Freetown,NY 13803
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut
Yeah, yeah, yeah--come on MM, hook the old girl up & let her do what she was meant to.
- mmichaud
- Member
- Posts: 26
- Joined: Wed. Jul. 15, 2015 12:25 am
- Location: South Milwaukee, Wisconsin
- Baseburners & Antiques: Radiant Home 018, Herald Oak 16
Paul - Mill Lake Metal Finishing did the plating for me. They are located in Long Prairie Minnesota.
In regards to the chimney here is my dilemma... I originally purchased the stove to use once I move to a different house. I was hoping to move this year however that has been postponed due to a number of different reasons. Might be couple of more years. My current set up with my modern wood stove is set in place. I cannot move the location of the thimble into the chimney because the chimney is lined with poured insulation around. It's permanent. See attached picture. I am not sure how I can make it work. I really need a stove that has a rear exit instead of a top if I want to use it in my current configuration. Any ideas out there??
Mike
In regards to the chimney here is my dilemma... I originally purchased the stove to use once I move to a different house. I was hoping to move this year however that has been postponed due to a number of different reasons. Might be couple of more years. My current set up with my modern wood stove is set in place. I cannot move the location of the thimble into the chimney because the chimney is lined with poured insulation around. It's permanent. See attached picture. I am not sure how I can make it work. I really need a stove that has a rear exit instead of a top if I want to use it in my current configuration. Any ideas out there??
Mike
Attachments
- Merc300d
- Member
- Posts: 506
- Joined: Tue. Feb. 18, 2014 7:45 pm
- Location: Charleston SC
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood 6 base heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Too many
- Coal Size/Type: Nut
- Other Heating: Oil base board
dI have a solution!!!! I'll trade you my glenwood number 6 base heater and some money your way for your radiant !
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- Member
- Posts: 85
- Joined: Wed. Oct. 07, 2015 9:12 pm
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm morning 400B.
- Baseburners & Antiques: Germer Radient Home A18, Glenwood #8 Baseheater, Phillips & Clark Oakvale Andes 161.
- Coal Size/Type: Nut/Stove Bituminious
- Other Heating: Electric baseboard
That 018 sure got the Bling going on. I have a A18 stuck over in a corner, later model I'm thinking. You just don't see many Bituminous designed stoves that stately. Great Job.
Attachments
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- Member
- Posts: 4837
- Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
- Location: Elkhart county, IN.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
i would come off the top with an oval to round, an elbow or two or three to bring the pipe down to the level of your thimble.mmichaud wrote:Paul - Mill Lake Metal Finishing did the plating for me. They are located in Long Prairie Minnesota.
I am not sure how I can make it work. I really need a stove that has a rear exit instead of a top if I want to use it in my current configuration. Any ideas out there??
Mike
i'm confident you will be fine. you may not even need an MPD but i'd put one in anyway.
steve
- Keepaeyeonit
- Member
- Posts: 1680
- Joined: Wed. Mar. 24, 2010 7:18 pm
- Location: Northeast Ohio.( Grand river wine country )
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood #8
- Coal Size/Type: Nut & stove
- Other Heating: 49 year old oil furnace, and finally a new heat pump
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- Member
- Posts: 4837
- Joined: Wed. Apr. 03, 2013 1:24 pm
- Location: Elkhart county, IN.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: 1 comforter stove works all iron coal box stove, seventies.
- Baseburners & Antiques: 2014 DTS C17 Base Burner, GW #6, GW 113 formerly Sir Williams, maybe others at Pauliewog’s I’ve forgotten about
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anth.
- Other Heating: none
here is a pic of the double reversing back pipe I made for my stove this yr.
the elbow near the top of the stove is the direct draft out of the upper barrel. from there the exhaust goes DOWN to the "T" and over and UP the second elbow and pipe to the third elbow and into the thimble.
as you can see, in base mode, the exhaust not only leaves the inner barrel and goes down the transfers into the base chamber then out the back but hits a "T" UP to the second "T", then over to an elbow and UP to the second elbow into the thimble.
there is no problem with draft or leaks in it anywhere. if you do something along this order you will also gain a decent amount of radiant surface on the pipe and elbows and release even more heat before it gets away up the chimney.
there was no trouble this past winter having 600* on the barrel and 105* on the pipe at the thimble.
hope all that helps
steve
the elbow near the top of the stove is the direct draft out of the upper barrel. from there the exhaust goes DOWN to the "T" and over and UP the second elbow and pipe to the third elbow and into the thimble.
as you can see, in base mode, the exhaust not only leaves the inner barrel and goes down the transfers into the base chamber then out the back but hits a "T" UP to the second "T", then over to an elbow and UP to the second elbow into the thimble.
there is no problem with draft or leaks in it anywhere. if you do something along this order you will also gain a decent amount of radiant surface on the pipe and elbows and release even more heat before it gets away up the chimney.
there was no trouble this past winter having 600* on the barrel and 105* on the pipe at the thimble.
hope all that helps
steve