Rebuild My EFM 520

Post by **StokerDon** » Wed. Sep. 23, 2015 8:49 pm

GIT' GO'IN DAVE!

-Don

dave28 · Post by **dave28** » Thu. Sep. 24, 2015 12:52 pm

The pot busshing went in with ease. I got everything painted and hoping to put things together tomorrow.

I'm hoping someone can tell me what the fitting is on the bottom of my boiler. I know the top one is for the aquastat but not sure what the bottom one would be for. It has a set screw on it.

I am posting pictures of the boiler tag. I typed on the picture what I thought was the wording on the tag.

Thanks,
Dave

Post by **Rob R.** » Thu. Sep. 24, 2015 12:56 pm

That is a well of some sort, possibly for a temperature gauge or an aquastat. Might come out easily, but won't hurt anything to leave it there (provided it doesn't leak).

Use the well closest to the tankless coil for your aquastat.

dave28 · Post by **dave28** » Thu. Sep. 24, 2015 1:47 pm

Rob,

I really appreciate the information. This is a whole new area for me and I am learning a lot for all the help I have received on the message board.

Thanks,
Dave

dave28 · Post by **dave28** » Sat. Sep. 26, 2015 1:26 pm

I'm getting ready to assemble the burner pot and had a question concerning the rope gasket. The rope seems a little fat when just sitting on the bench but if I pull on it slightly it gets thinner. My question is should I stretch it slightly and how do you keep it in place while doing the assembly? Should I use a little glue?

Thanks,
Dave

Post by **StokerDon** » Sat. Sep. 26, 2015 1:36 pm

You just set the gasket in there. I put Hi-Temp silicon in first to keep it in place during assembly.

Make sure you are using the right size gaskets! 1/4" for the top of the burn plates and the ash ring to pot connection. 3/8" or 1/2" on the bottom of the burn plates depending on if your pot has a channel (3/8") for the gasket to sit in or a shelf type thing (1/2") for it to attach to.

-Don

dave28 · Post by **dave28** » Sat. Sep. 26, 2015 2:45 pm

Don,

I told Glenn Harris I needed rope to assemble the 520 and he sent me 20' of 1/4".

Dave

dave28 · Post by **dave28** » Sat. Sep. 26, 2015 2:57 pm

Ran into a road block trying to assemble the 520 assembled. The crank that I got from EFM doesn't fit the shaft on the gear reducing unit. The hole in the crank measures 0.63 and the shaft measures 0.75. I was making progress getting this thing ready to fire but this kinda set me back.

I'll have to get a hold of Glenn and get the right one.

Dave

Scottscoaled · Post by **Scottscoaled** » Sat. Sep. 26, 2015 3:28 pm

Ahhh! New style for an older model.

Post by **Rob R.** » Sat. Sep. 26, 2015 5:50 pm

Why not drill it out to the proper size?

dave28 · Post by **dave28** » Sat. Sep. 26, 2015 5:53 pm

I talked to Glenn and he said I could either take it to a machine shop and have it machined out or send it back and he would send me the right one. How hard would it be to drill?

coal stoker · Post by **coal stoker** » Sat. Sep. 26, 2015 5:59 pm

If you are considering fixing the ID, I would send it to a machinist.
Low tolerences with this type of fit.

dave28 · Post by **dave28** » Sat. Sep. 26, 2015 10:37 pm

My son has a machine shop in York Springs. I called him and he said he can machine it to the correct size. Thanks for the replies.

Post by **StokerDon** » Sat. Sep. 26, 2015 10:41 pm

Dave,

If you have a 3/4" drill bit and a drill with a chuck that will accept the 3/4" drill bit, You could just drill it. It's cast iron so it will drill easy. If not, take it to your local machinist and they can drill it to 0.75".

-Don

dave28 · Post by **dave28** » Sat. Sep. 26, 2015 10:49 pm

My son said while it's cast and soft enough to drill it could be hard trying to get it to drill correctly with the key way cut in there.

Rebuild My EFM 520

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