stupid efm

stupid efm

PostBy: lincolnmania On: Fri Mar 14, 2008 10:11 pm

it broke on me......last week the auger broke......i got a used auger and replaced it......all seemed well, but yesterday it sheared one of the pins, i replaced the pin and it broke again......so after getting the auger out, i found that the gooseneck bushing is toast......i picked up a new bushing today, but i cannot get this pos apart.....the set screws for the aluminum pipe will not budge, i had heat on the pot, but the set screws are also getting red and i do not want to break them......i'm frustrated, but glad it was nice today......even got a timer set up, but no fire till i can get the pot out of the stove...help!
lincolnmania
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: efm af-150 1982
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: alaska kodiak stoker 1986
Hand Fed Coal Stove: warm morning 1980 kenmore

Re: stupid efm

PostBy: LsFarm On: Fri Mar 14, 2008 10:25 pm

Penetrating oil,, my favorite is PB Blaster,, and patience..

Good luck..

Greg .

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LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

Re: stupid efm

PostBy: stoker-man On: Sat Mar 15, 2008 7:18 am

The set screws in the pot travel through a good amount of cast iron. Heat the area around the set screws with a torch and put a cold wet rag on the set screws only, to shrink them after the iron is really hot. It won't hurt the set screws to get red hot, as long as you don't try to turn them until they've been cooled. I would not reuse the same set screws due to any lack of tempering. You can do the same with the aluminum pipe: Heat around it and put a wet rag onto the pipe. You have to pull straight back for at least 3/8" before you can rotate it because of the indexing roll pin. Alternately, you can knock out the roll pin, which is under the cleanout cover plate and then you can rotate the pipe right away.
stoker-man
 
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: 1981 efm wcb-24 in use 365 days a year
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite/Chestnut
Other Heating: Hearthstone wood stove

Visit Lehigh Anthracite

Re: stupid efm

PostBy: LsFarm On: Sat Mar 15, 2008 8:41 am

Seems like the EFMs have a lot of moving parts, subject to wear from the coal and tough environment they work in. I think this summer would be a good time to bring your EFM stoker mechanism up to original specs, bushings, tubes, gaskets, grates, change the gearbox oil, lube the motor, vacuum it out clean, etc..

They will last a long time, but don't apparently like to be neglected.. I have an EFM stoker unit I was going to adapt to Big Bertha before I found the Iron Fireman stoker. So I look at the mechanism, it's complexity and marvel that they work as well and as long as they do.. Lots of wear points,

Greg L
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

Re: stupid efm

PostBy: stoker-man On: Sat Mar 15, 2008 11:54 am

Well, let's investigate this matter. If I remember correctly, your AF150 was going to be scrapped and you saved it from destruction and got it going again. It's a minimum of 30 years old. Do you have the serial number? I can tell you exactly when it was made. For $20 or so, the gooseneck bushing is a pretty inexpensive repair for such a long lifespan.
stoker-man
 
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: 1981 efm wcb-24 in use 365 days a year
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite/Chestnut
Other Heating: Hearthstone wood stove

Manufacturers and Repairability

PostBy: Wotseurba On: Sat Mar 15, 2008 12:30 pm

Situations like this (rusted, frozen set screws) always make me wonder if the manufacturers ever consider repairability. How much would it cost to use Stainless Set Screws? A couple cents? Or why don't the manufacturers use neverseize?
Wotseurba
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Alternate Heating Systems
Stove/Furnace Model: S-130

Re: Manufacturers and Repairability

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Sat Mar 15, 2008 12:55 pm

Wotseurba wrote:Situations like this (rusted, frozen set screws) always make me wonder if the manufacturers ever consider repairability. How much would it cost to use Stainless Set Screws? A couple cents? Or why don't the manufacturers use neverseize?


S/S may be more trouble than its worth. It is not happy in the presence of other metals. It tends to gall, especially in pipe threads. The Hardened steel is the appropriate screw.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

Re: stupid efm

PostBy: stoker-man On: Sat Mar 15, 2008 1:17 pm

Every screw is never-seized for the last five years that I've built.

However, if the unit (boiler) is kept warm and in use, there is usually never a problem with untreated screws/nuts or for that matter, untreated metal.
stoker-man
 
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: 1981 efm wcb-24 in use 365 days a year
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite/Chestnut
Other Heating: Hearthstone wood stove

Re: Manufacturers and Repairability

PostBy: Richard S. On: Sat Mar 15, 2008 1:27 pm

Wotseurba wrote: Or why don't the manufacturers use neverseize?


There's a good chance that furnace was built before those products came on the market. :lol:
Richard S.
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Van Wert VA1200
Coal Size/Type: Buckwheat/Anthracite

Re: stupid efm

PostBy: e.alleg On: Sat Mar 15, 2008 2:44 pm

stoker-man wrote:Every screw is never-seized for the last five years that I've built.

However, if the unit (boiler) is kept warm and in use, there is usually never a problem with untreated screws/nuts or for that matter, untreated metal.


You said it Stoker Man.
e.alleg
 
Stove/Furnace Make: EFM
Stove/Furnace Model: 520

Re: stupid efm

PostBy: lincolnmania On: Sat Mar 15, 2008 2:52 pm

1982 on the mfg tag.......i got the aluminum pipe out last night......it is toast.....the holes were facing the top tho.......so we removed the stoker/pot as one assembly and i cannot get the pot off......ran out of oxygen and pb blaster.....the set screws on the air side of the pot are loose.....the ones for the aluminum feed pipe would not budge, but they must have been siezed last yr when i assembled the furnace....i just wanna get the pot off so i can replace the gooseneck bushing......i know the furnace is 26 yrs old
lincolnmania
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: efm af-150 1982
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: alaska kodiak stoker 1986
Hand Fed Coal Stove: warm morning 1980 kenmore

Re: stupid efm

PostBy: coalstoves On: Sat Mar 15, 2008 3:48 pm

Impact Driver Tool at this point

Image
coalstoves
 
Stove/Furnace Make: Harman and Liberty
Stove/Furnace Model: Magnum and Victory 700

Re: stupid efm

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Sat Mar 15, 2008 4:00 pm

A stubborn set screw will usually come right out if you use the largest flat nosed punch that will fit on it. Rap it firmly and squarely. It also tightens the hex hole up on the ones that have been mauled. A little PB or liquid wrench will help. Don't wail on it, but a couple of firm smacks should do it.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

Re: stupid efm

PostBy: lincolnmania On: Sat Mar 15, 2008 4:22 pm

stuck set screws not the problem.....i cannot get the pot off.....the set screws are out completely.
lincolnmania
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: efm af-150 1982
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: alaska kodiak stoker 1986
Hand Fed Coal Stove: warm morning 1980 kenmore

Re: stupid efm

PostBy: LsFarm On: Sat Mar 15, 2008 6:08 pm

Heat the pot,,, use regular motor oil on the joint of the pot/pipe,, let the motor oil flow over the joint . Let the oil cool the pot/joint. as the pot cools, the oil will be drawn into the joint... repeat several times.. the oil will fume an burn off it you get the joint too hot,,, it doesn't need to be red.. just hot so it expands. then cool with motor oil, used oil is fine.

With patience, I've removed some really corroded pipes...

If the pipe is toast, and is going to be replaced, cut it off near the joint going into the pot.. then use a hacksaw blade and cut a slot in the aluminum pipe, lengthwise, all the way through the aluminum up to the cast iron of the pot/sleeve.. The gap cut in the aluminum will allow the pipe to shrink/collapse, and it will come right out..
I use a broken hacksaw blade and a pair of visegrips to hold it... take your time.. it will work. don't cut too deep and cut a slot in the pot/sleeve..

Good luck.. Greg L

.
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

Visit Lehigh Anthracite