The Refractory Thread!

I'd like to try that super hi-bond plus,but searched online,and got no hits.Is there a name brand I could add to the search,or can someone tell me where to find it?Thanks in advance.

Sunny Boy wrote: On the advice of Wilson, I'm using Rutland's #601 castable refractory cement, to cast new bricks for my Glenwood #6 base heater.
https://www.rutland.com/p/13/castable-refractory-cement
A 25 pound bucket is just about enough to copy the 14 bricks in a #6.
And on the advice of William and others, I'm using the Oatey brand, Hercules furnace cement to set the fire bricks and seal all the stove's seams.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_15879-138-35515___?produc ... ace+cement
Paul

Quick question if you don't mind Paul. I remember you stating this, and believe the G6 has a bigger pot than the 111, But when I poured a couple test bricks recently, it seemed that about 3lbs per brick was needed to duplicate my masters. 3lbs times 12 bricks comes out to 36lbs, or more than one bucket. I used the Rutland 601 castable, and mixed it to spec. Not sure where the 30% more factors in. Looking to buy more, for more testing, and not sure if I'll stay with the Rutland. Might try some Imperial? Even tho the Rutland color says "buff", it still dries to a grey cement color. Not the same as what your bricks look like and others I've seen on this site.

Was wondering if I could get any opinions on this guys homemade concoction? Is it legit, mickey mouse, or "Voodoo?"



He has other threads where he's built his own stove (s?), out of stone, or rock, and metal. Not pretty, but functional.

Edit. Also found this to remove air bubbles. Windex or dishwashing soap. this pertains to plaster, but seems the method is compatible with concrete?

joeq wrote:Was wondering if I could get any opinions on this guys homemade concoction? Is it legit, mickey mouse, or "Voodoo?"



He has other threads where he's built his own stove (s?), out of stone, or rock, and metal. Not pretty, but functional.

Edit. Also found this to remove air bubbles. Windex or dishwashing soap. this pertains to plaster, but seems the method is compatible with concrete?

An old timer once told me,.. "It's always good to get your info from the horse's mouth. But, you have to know which end of the horse your talking with." When it comes to getting good info, YouTube is a "mine" field as much as it's a "mind" field.

Before I'd go playing chemist I'd ask the manufacture of the refractory cement what would happen when adding any soaps or cleaners. They likely know more about their product and how it will interact with other substances than some whoever on YouTube.

As to the volume of castable needed, the GW # 6 cast iron firepot is 15-1/2 inch ID at the top about 13 at the bottom and it's 10 inches top of the grates to top of the brick lining. The bricks are 1 inch thick.

There are 14 bricks in a #6. 7 in the top row, 7 in the bottom row. The last set of bricks I made I started with a new 25 pound bucket of the Rutland 601 castable refractory cement.

To keep over-mixing waste to a minimum, I had marked the level of two bricks worth of refractory on the sides of a Tupperware bucket I use for mixing. I filled to that level with dry refractory, then add water, mixed and vibrate it. That amount would fill both the top and the bottom brick molds with minimal waste left over. Did that 7 times, to make all 14 bricks and the Rutland bucket was almost empty.

Paul

Sunny Boy wrote: An old timer once told me,.. "It's always good to get your info from the horse's mouth. But, you have to know which end of the horse your talking with."
Paul

LOL. Tap dancing in a mine field. Ain't that the truth? Good advice. Didn't know if it would compare to cooking spray as a release agent. I did like his tutorial on the water droplet standing tall, when dropped onto a rubber mat, then showing it laying flat after spraying a diluted mixture of Windex on the mat. How it relates to a concrete mix, compared to plaster, who knows? May be worth a test.

I just bought the super hybond plus and will be lining my Glenwood 114 with it this in the next couple of weeks. Would be interested in any tips etc. in using it.
It can be bought here: http://store.nexternal.com/empirers/super-hybond-plus-p4.aspx

Welcome aboard Schveep. That refractory looks like some interesting stuff. When you get a chance, throw up some pix of your Glenwood. We'ld all like to see it.
(does your stove have original bricks, or has it been relined already?)

My G6 bricks appear to be original. They retain the reputed 1" thickness they are supposed to have. Cracks are present throughout them and the surface is rough. All bricks are firmly in place with the exception of three chips on the top edge. I am not sure I have the skill or patience to go through the home-making of new bricks but I am sure I can repair the chipped areas. Is not replacing them a poor choice? By nature of the stove's intended location it will not be fired very heavily. Also is there a refractory that could be applied to the rough interior of the firepot (thoroughly cleaned) that would smooth it up yet be expected to stick to the bricks? Probably wishful thinking but cant hurt to ask
Thanks for any replies
Dick

DW, if your bricks are still intact, ( and have been for 100 years), I wouldn't see a need to replace them. They still retain their insulating qualities, and once filled with coal, the visual discrepancies disappear. But I wondered also if there's a furnace cement, or some type of "buttery" high temp refractory, that could be squeegeed around the pot, to smooth out the irregularities. Of course you realize when you build up the ID, you reduce the quantity of the coal capacity a smidgen. Not sure how bad the influence would be.

schveep wrote:I just bought the super hybond plus and will be lining my Glenwood 114 with it this in the next couple of weeks. Would be interested in any tips etc. in using it.
It can be bought here: http://store.nexternal.com/empirers/super-hybond-plus-p4.aspx

Welcome to the forum schveep, what part of the universe do you reside? Thanks for the link, my go to place for Nox-Ram is 20 dollars more plus 30 something dollars for shipping...a penny saved is a penny burned!

joeq wrote:DW, if your bricks are still intact, ( and have been for 100 years), I wouldn't see a need to replace them. They still retain their insulating qualities, and once filled with coal, the visual discrepancies disappear. But I wondered also if there's a furnace cement, or some type of "buttery" high temp refractory, that could be squeegeed around the pot, to smooth out the irregularities. Of course you realize when you build up the ID, you reduce the quantity of the coal capacity a smidgen. Not sure how bad the influence would be.

If a smoothing coat of whatever would be applied I doubt much capacity would be lost? It will be replacing a Hitzer 50-93 when I get the Glenwood finished and the Hitzer has proven to be borderline too much stove for that area. I run it at pretty low temp. I figure the G6 is likely equal to the Hitzer in heat output if called upon but it's controllability is well known from what I have read here on the forum. A little less coal a smoothing coat might cause probably would not be a problem. Still wonder if such a coat could be made to "stick" to the original brick I have heard some refractories have certain fibers embedded in them to help prevent cracking. Anyhow thanks for your thoughts

I know what you're saying about the capacity DW, if you only use a skim coat. But my original bricks were pretty badly caked up, and didn't take kindly to grinding. (Not sure how bad yours are in comparison.) So if I were to try and build something up on the walls, it would've taken quite a bit. But I agree, it would have to be substantial, to make a difference. And if you're looking to use your stove for shoulder month operations, the effect probably would be beneficial. Less coal, less heat.

Pics are not my specialty but this is what the pot looks like. I was thinking about sandblasting it just enough to get the crud off it before coating it. Also shown are the two chipped areas. I may just be wasting my time trying to do a skim coat. As is it is, will probably outlive me with or without trying to put a coat on it

deepwoods wrote:Pics are not my specialty but this is what the pot looks like. I was thinking about sandblasting it just enough to get the crud off it before coating it. Also shown are the two chipped areas. I may just be wasting my time trying to do a skim coat. As is it is, will probably outlive me with or without trying to put a coat on it

Sand blasting seems quick but it's the last thing I'd try. That's based on I do sandblasting as part of my restoration business for over 30 years.

The sand goes after the softest areas fastest,... unless they are really soft like rubber. The "crusty" stuff on your liner is clinker scale that has fused into the liner and is harder than the fireclay liner. You'll blast away what you want to save before you blast away what you want gone.

Use a grinder, or wood rasp file so that your only taking off the high points - the clinker scale.

Paul

And I would think if you bought a small pail of refractory, you could just build up the busted areas pretty easily, to fill them in.