Bought Myself a Lemon
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You're more of a worry wort than I am, and that's saying something.
http://www.partshotlines.com/ lists 149 automatic transmissions for 2006 Lacrosse with the 3.8 engine.
And there are rebuilders. Put $50 under the mattress every month and in five years you will have $3,000 to replace or rebuild the trans, so you will be totally relaxed about your pre-paid replacement. I have only ever scrapped one car for failed engine or transmission, usually it's an accumulation of lots of smaller but expensive fixes that gang up on you -- AC compressor dies, struts fail, heater core leaks, brake lines rust, gas tank leaks, cat converter fails, steering rack goes, engine computer gets fried -- aaaarrrrrrggggghhh, terrifying!
http://www.partshotlines.com/ lists 149 automatic transmissions for 2006 Lacrosse with the 3.8 engine.
And there are rebuilders. Put $50 under the mattress every month and in five years you will have $3,000 to replace or rebuild the trans, so you will be totally relaxed about your pre-paid replacement. I have only ever scrapped one car for failed engine or transmission, usually it's an accumulation of lots of smaller but expensive fixes that gang up on you -- AC compressor dies, struts fail, heater core leaks, brake lines rust, gas tank leaks, cat converter fails, steering rack goes, engine computer gets fried -- aaaarrrrrrggggghhh, terrifying!
- Flyer5
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The 4T60 were pretty good for the most part . The biggest thing I feel that hurt them was people backing up out of a drive and then dropping it in drive before stopping fully in reverse. It seemed to wear the clutch baskets. That would give a shudder. A lot of the other issues were corrected when they evolved from the TH440.rberq wrote:You're more of a worry wort than I am, and that's saying something.
http://www.partshotlines.com/ lists 149 automatic transmissions for 2006 Lacrosse with the 3.8 engine.
And there are rebuilders. Put $50 under the mattress every month and in five years you will have $3,000 to replace or rebuild the trans, so you will be totally relaxed about your pre-paid replacement. I have only ever scrapped one car for failed engine or transmission, usually it's an accumulation of lots of smaller but expensive fixes that gang up on you -- AC compressor dies, struts fail, heater core leaks, brake lines rust, gas tank leaks, cat converter fails, steering rack goes, engine computer gets fried -- aaaarrrrrrggggghhh, terrifying!
- Richard S.
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Guess we turned the corner and we're putting it back together! The only thing left on the old engine is to disconnect it from the frame and tranny and set the new one in place.
Felt like I just got playing the longest puzzle game invented with those harness connections. A lot of different ones, I can understand making them different sizes but not sure why they have to make them all lock differently. The one on the alternator was particularly a PITA, there was small hold you had to poke a pick in to slide the lock over.
All the aluminum on both engines has that white corrosion on it, I noticed the water pump didn't. Looks like new. I jiggled the pump on the new engine and there was some very minor play in it so I figured I might as well switch them out. Not sure how long it takes to get corrosion like this but I have to guess it was sitting for a while. That white stuff is almost like grease, not sure what it is. Looking in the ports they look absolutely fine so it was just the pump and the coolant exposed to air. You can even see on the ends of the pump it looks clean. Once I get it together I'm going to fill it with just water and some radiator treatment. Drain it and put the coolant in after running for a day or two.
Felt like I just got playing the longest puzzle game invented with those harness connections. A lot of different ones, I can understand making them different sizes but not sure why they have to make them all lock differently. The one on the alternator was particularly a PITA, there was small hold you had to poke a pick in to slide the lock over.
All the aluminum on both engines has that white corrosion on it, I noticed the water pump didn't. Looks like new. I jiggled the pump on the new engine and there was some very minor play in it so I figured I might as well switch them out. Not sure how long it takes to get corrosion like this but I have to guess it was sitting for a while. That white stuff is almost like grease, not sure what it is. Looking in the ports they look absolutely fine so it was just the pump and the coolant exposed to air. You can even see on the ends of the pump it looks clean. Once I get it together I'm going to fill it with just water and some radiator treatment. Drain it and put the coolant in after running for a day or two.
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- Richard S.
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AFAIK Grumpy as long as it's not freezing out and I won't have to worry about that. I'm only going to do it for perhaps 10 miles or whatever.grumpy wrote:Rich, are you sure it's Ok to run just water..
- Richard S.
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It was really clean and not easy to get off, you couldn't just wipe it off. I had to scrape it off. It was more like a waxy substance, almost like bees wax and looks like little balls of it. I don't see any indication it's nest but I know nothing about bees either. It's the only place it is. The ports leading into the engine were very clean, I can't see anything at all except metal inside the ports.SWPaDon wrote:The white stuff looks like oil mixed with the antifreeze.
The center of the wheel is what would be exposed to air and there is very distinct line going across the center of the pump wheel with rusty stuff on the bottom and waxy stuff on the top. The rust and waxy substance just kind of stops once they get near the ports going into the engine.
Here's better picture:
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- SWPaDon
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Waxy? I'm unsure about that.
In your previous post the word greasy was mentioned. When oil mixes with the antifreeze, it will make a whitish greasy substance that closely resembles white lithium grease. It will float on top of the water, wherever that level may be.
I'm hoping the best for ya, Don
In your previous post the word greasy was mentioned. When oil mixes with the antifreeze, it will make a whitish greasy substance that closely resembles white lithium grease. It will float on top of the water, wherever that level may be.
I'm hoping the best for ya, Don
- Richard S.
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I don't know how to describe it, the stuff in the center is more like grease, the stuff of the top is to the point it's stuck on the metal even after hosing it off.
I do know one thing, If I find oil in the coolant after getting this thing running I'm making the national news.
I do know one thing, If I find oil in the coolant after getting this thing running I'm making the national news.
- Richard S.
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Spaghetti anyone? Really turned the corner now. I'm up to about 35 different wire connections that had to be disconnected. Old engine is out and ready to put the "new" one in.
Most of the wires are fairly obvious where they go but I numbered them and where they went as I was taking them off with masking tape. I'll be removing the tape as I'm reconnecting them, one of the pluses here is it will be difficult to miss one.
Most of the wires are fairly obvious where they go but I numbered them and where they went as I was taking them off with masking tape. I'll be removing the tape as I'm reconnecting them, one of the pluses here is it will be difficult to miss one.
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- Rick 386
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So is that motor installed by now and running ???
Rick
Rick
- Richard S.
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Haha, you funny guy. I don't do this every day and I have other things I need to do, if I had a lift and a stand to put the frame on this would be so much easier.Rick 386 wrote:So is that motor installed by now and running ???
"New" engine is on the frame, need to make the harness connections. Still need to change the cracked sway bar and I'm going to change the tie rod ends. There is new one on one end but it has grease fitting, WTF is with that? I don't even know if it's the right one. The other one looks old. I don't half replace stuff like that, I'll just get two new ones and be done with it.
- Richard S.
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Looks like my goo is what they are referring to as silicate dropout. Here's picture from another car and it looks just like it:
**Broken Link(s) Removed**
I hope that is only place it is. Must be the air.
**Broken Link(s) Removed**
I hope that is only place it is. Must be the air.
- Richard S.
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Looks like most if not all of the aftermarket stuff has grease fittings. Why is that?Richard S. wrote:There is new one on one end but it has grease fitting, WTF is with that?
- Rob R.
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Probably for sales. I think many people prefer the greasable units over the sealed ones. The problem is that most people don't own a grease gun.
If you don't mind giving them a shot of grease about once per year the greaseable ones are fine.
If you don't mind giving them a shot of grease about once per year the greaseable ones are fine.