The 22 gage welded works nicely for 4 years now on a stoker, its always removed within a week of stove shutdown, simply brushed out and stored inside the stoker with moisture absorbing pellets. Pays for itself in rework.Lightning wrote:http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimney/Black-Stove ... 6-Diameter
Here's where I get mine.
Replacing Black Pipe
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- dlj
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Lisa,lowfog01 wrote:I never knew there was such a thing as 22 gauge welded stove pipe. We have to "field modify" the pipe to get it through the damper. Could we easily squish the welded stove pipe to about 4 inches? Would doing so break the weld? I wouldn't mind spending more for a better pipe if I didn't have to fool with it as often.
Thanks for your thoughts, Lisa
How many lengths are you pushing through the damper?
Making the pipe an oval to go through the damper should not affect the weld at all. One of the tests to make sure their weld is good is to bend the weld over a mandrel 180 degrees. Weld is good when no cracks happen...
I'd also suggest you get good enamel spray paint and paint both inside and outside of the pipe before installing. A good paint job on the heavy gage pipe will really extend the life. Careful how you push it through the damper section so you don't scrape off the paint...
dj
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Thanks for the reply. There are 4 18 inch sections put through the damper. I'm glad that making the pipe an oval won't hurt the weld. I thought I would position the weld on one of the flatter sides and the screws on the sharper curve.dlj wrote:How many lengths are you pushing through the damper?
Thanks for the suggestion of the enamel spray paint. I can see how that would cut down on the rust. I'm going to look for a local supplier so I can cut out the shipping cost.
Thanks again, Lisa
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Lisa,lowfog01 wrote:Thanks for the reply. There are 4 18 inch sections put through the damper. I'm glad that making the pipe an oval won't hurt the weld. I thought I would position the weld on one of the flatter sides and the screws on the sharper curve.dlj wrote:How many lengths are you pushing through the damper?
Thanks for the suggestion of the enamel spray paint. I can see how that would cut down on the rust. I'm going to look for a local supplier so I can cut out the shipping cost.
Thanks again, Lisa
So you must be joining the sections, then pushing through the damper. That should work fine. You will discover that the heavier gage pipe is a lot harder to squeeze through that opening. But still should be doable.
Typically black stove pipe only has a very thin primer when you buy it. It really should be painted - inside and outside. It will make a big difference in your installation. You shouldn't have to change that pipe for quite a number of years.
dj
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I dunno, strap it to a broom handle, duct tape the nozzle open and twirl it thru the pipe lol
Ya know, just think "outside the pipe" I guess
Ya know, just think "outside the pipe" I guess
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She's using 18 inch sections. I do using a rubber glove on my hand that covers a garbage bag I have taped around my arm. So I paint my garbage bagged arm and rubber glove along with the pipe. I don't care about drips on the inside of a black pipe... But... I still try to minimize them... just my OCD... You can certainly reach in 10 inches from each end...
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Or, just brush it on.
This is what some of the stove restoration shops use.
http://stovepaint.com/
If you call to order, they sell their high temp stove paint in pints, quarts, and gallons.
http://stovepaint.com/Products/AT/View/PID/3/Thur ... -270-Black
Paul
This is what some of the stove restoration shops use.
http://stovepaint.com/
If you call to order, they sell their high temp stove paint in pints, quarts, and gallons.
http://stovepaint.com/Products/AT/View/PID/3/Thur ... -270-Black
Paul
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My thoughts also Padre. I got my snap together 6" lasting 3 to 4 seasons & it's only 2 lengths + 10"'s
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Going on 11th winter with the same 5 sections of snap-together 6 inch pipe that I first hooked the range up with.freetown fred wrote:My thoughts also Padre. I got my snap together 6" lasting 3 to 4 seasons & it's only 2 lengths + 10"'s
No painted insides of pipe and the pipes are left connected all summer. Plus, most years, the pipe only gets cleaned out once and just at the beginning of a heating season.
But, the environment the pipe is in likely has a lot to do with that. Like the chimneys of a century ago, it's a tall, brick chimney and it has always had a slate rain cap. Maybe those old timers knew better ?
However, for stoves in damp areas, painting the inside of new pipes should help them last longer. Certainly couldn't hurt.
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Heat Fab, Safe T Pipe, only one that is 24 ga thick and continuous laser welded.
dura-black is a thinner 24 ga and is only spot welded...if used for coal use you will regret.
Heat Fab, Safe T Pipe, only one that is 24 ga thick and continuous laser welded.
dura-black is a thinner 24 ga and is only spot welded...if used for coal use you will regret.
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blrman07 wrote:Paint the inside of your stove pipe? Really? I have never heard of anyone doing that. Is it really that expensive that you go through these contortions to paint the inside of a stove pipe?
You don't "have" to paint in or out... Lisa showed pictures of her pipe and it was corroded through. She also said she didn't want to have to replace it often. It was simply my suggestion that she would have better results - given her constraints and visibly corroded chimney pipe - that painting her replacement stove pipe would give her notably better results...freetown fred wrote:My thoughts also Padre. I got my snap together 6" lasting 3 to 4 seasons & it's only 2 lengths + 10"'s
blrman07: Never heard of painting stove pipe? Well I guess that's what the forums are for - to learn new things...
freetown fred: Happy that your pipe runs 3 to 4 seasons? Great! I'm happy for you too...
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Paul,Sunny Boy wrote:Or, just brush it on.
This is what some of the stove restoration shops use.
http://stovepaint.com/
If you call to order, they sell their high temp stove paint in pints, quarts, and gallons.
http://stovepaint.com/Products/AT/View/PID/3/Thur ... -270-Black
Paul
Thanks for the links and the heads up on the fact I don't have to use spray paint. I've only ever seen this paint in spray cans. It would be a lot easier to brush on... Next time I'm doing that, I'll look for the paint...
dj