Chimney
- confedsailor
- Member
- Posts: 472
- Joined: Tue. Mar. 12, 2013 9:46 pm
- Location: Moosup Ct
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: 100 KBtu Chappee
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Surdiac 513
- Other Heating: Oil Fired 1950"s American Standard Arcoliner 132K BTU
Last year I was quoted 2600 for a 3 story brick chimney with a 12X8 flue in Moosup Ct. Might be cheaper there, who knows? Stainless flues have some folks who like em, but the general consensus on here is a stainless chimney will cost you almost as much a a masonry one will and be a maintenance headache. Now that I've said that all the folks with stainless are going to come out the woodwork to light me up
- coaledsweat
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 13766
- Joined: Fri. Oct. 27, 2006 2:05 pm
- Location: Guilford, Connecticut
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
- Coal Size/Type: Pea
The SS won't last unless it is veeeeery expensive. The labor is what kills you, the block and tile are cheap.
- lowfog01
- Member
- Posts: 3889
- Joined: Sat. Dec. 20, 2008 8:33 am
- Location: Springfield, VA
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Mark II & Mark I
- Coal Size/Type: nut/pea
We got our SS chimney in 2008 and it's already showing signs of wear. I do a baking soda wash every spring but it's still starting to rust; especially around the chimney cap. I wish I had known then what I know now. I would have insisted on a brick and mortar chimney. As it is we will probably have to replace the SS Chimney before we can sell the house when we retire in ten years or so. The brick and mortar chimney would have been less expensive in the long run. Lisa
- oliver power
- Member
- Posts: 2970
- Joined: Sun. Apr. 16, 2006 9:28 am
- Location: Near Dansville, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: KEYSTOKER Kaa-2
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93 & 30-95, Vigilant (pre-2310), D.S. 1600 Circulator, Hitzer 254
I have both types of chimneys. The ONLY reason I have a stainless chimney for the house is; I prefer interior chimneys. If doing an exterior chimney, go masonry. In order to go masonry up through my place, I would have to re-frame the lumber all the way up through. Not to mention dry wall, flooring, paint, etc.. The metal chimney; I lucked out. I was able to cut a round hole through dry wall, flooring, ceiling, and roof. Straight up from basement, and through roof. Never had to touch the framing, and had perfect factory recommended clearances. Like Lisa says, I have a little more rust/corrosion at the top of the chimney every year. When the time comes, maybe I can get away with changing out the top section only. To anyone installing a metal chimney, I would recommend the last section of chimney at the top be about 18 - 20 inches. From the top, down to about 18", is where you'll find the most condensate in any chimney. That's why the metal chimneys corrode most in that area. It's a lot less expensive to replace 18 inches, than a 3 - 6 foot length.