Our Glenwood 109

 
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windyhill4.2
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Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both

Post by windyhill4.2 » Fri. Dec. 25, 2015 9:17 pm

tcalo,both my wife & I think that stove ranks as one of our top choices....just the right amount of bling along with a simplistic design,very nice.


 
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tcalo
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Joined: Tue. Dec. 13, 2011 4:57 pm
Location: Long Island, New York
Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40
Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite

Post by tcalo » Fri. Dec. 25, 2015 9:23 pm

Ahhh, kids are asleep...wife and I can finally relax!

So I have some issues with the stove. I'm not too happy with the air leak through the shaker handle cover and the bad seal on the ash door. As it is I need to have the internal check damper 100% open to control the fire. I plan on letting the stove burn out and addressing these issues. Thank goodness the weather is so mild! The shaker handle cover is quite sloppy and there is a groove worn in the frame where it slides...100+ years of use! I'll fabricate a new cover out of thick steel which should help fill the gap. I'll try to tweak the pins on the ash door to tighten it up. If that doesn't work I'll run a bead of hi temp silicone around the frame and cover it with wax paper. Once it sets up I'll trim the excess then I should be good to go.

Trial and error... :)

 
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tcalo
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Location: Long Island, New York
Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40
Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite

Post by tcalo » Fri. Dec. 25, 2015 9:45 pm

I know how we all love photos. Here's a few more of her doing what she does best...having an anthracite snack!

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joeq
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson

Post by joeq » Fri. Dec. 25, 2015 11:40 pm

Hey Tom, you got a good pic of the blues in there. You also mentioned when in BB mode, you can see the flames getting sucked down between the pot. I saw that last winter in my 111, and tried to get a pic of it, but they wouldn't come out. Do you think your camera is capable of catching this? Be really cool to see that in action.
(P.S. I knew you couldn't wait for the cold to crank it up :lol: And I don't blame you. I wouldn't wait either)

 
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tcalo
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Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite

Post by tcalo » Sat. Dec. 26, 2015 4:46 pm

I know these stoves aren't exactly air tight but I would like to button it up as much as I could.

I decided to try out Randy's trick for sealing up the ash door. I dumped the coal last night and let the stove cool down. I cleaned up the ash door lip and the stove frame to get all the polish off. I ran a bead of 3M fire sealant around the lip of the door. Randy mentioned the thickness of the wax paper over the silicone may affect the seal. I didn't have wax on hand so I decided to use bearing grease on the stove frame. I figure the sealant shouldn't stick to the grease. Whether it will affect the sealant or not...we'll see when I try to open the door tonight. I lubed up the frame and gently closed the ash door. I'll leave it closed for a few hours until it sets up, then I'll open the door (fingers crossed) and trim the excess sealant. Lastly, clean up the grease and re-polish that area of the stove. I'm not sure if I'm going to fire up the stove tonight, I may let the sealant cure until tomorrow.

I fabricated a new shaker arm plate. As I mentioned there was quite a bit of play with the old one. The frame of the stove where the plate rides has a groove worn in it and the plate itself is worn. The new plate is 1/4" steel and a bit larger than the old plate. The old plate looks like cast iron and measures 3/16 thick. I just have to make sure there is enough play to compensate for expansion. I'll check the fit tonight, then either paint or polish it. I'm stuck at work now but will get photos of both plates installed to give you an idea.

Hopefully this should fix the issues, then it's smooth sailing 8-)

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joeq
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Post by joeq » Sat. Dec. 26, 2015 5:59 pm

Wow. Nice job on the plate Tom. Are you a machinist? I hope it slides free for ya.

 
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tcalo
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Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite

Post by tcalo » Sat. Dec. 26, 2015 6:10 pm

joeq wrote:Are you a machinist?
Not a machinist Joe, just like to tinker. I've been turning wrenches my whole life thanks to my father.


 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Sat. Dec. 26, 2015 11:23 pm

I've got good news and bad news.

The new shaker arm plate fits like a glove. It's hard to tell from the photos but it closed up most of the gap. It's about as good as it's going to get. Now for a few coats of hi temp flat black paint and some polish.

The bearing grease worked awesome. The door pulled open with ease and the sealant didn't stick to the frame. It didn't really stick to the door either (which is where it was supposed to stick to). It did however make a nice impression of the mating surfaces. It dried rock hard and crumbled right off. I bet it would've sealed good. I thought maybe the grease affected how the sealant set up, but the excess from the tube I wiped up dried hard as well. Wrong stuff for this application I assume. What exactly do I need to use, hi temp silicone? Would Permatex hi temp rtv silicone work? The same stuff used for cylinder heads. The max operating temp is listed at 650 and it stays pliable.

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D.lapan
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Location: plainfield NH
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: newmac wood,coal,oil como
Baseburners & Antiques: 20th century laurel, glenwood hickory,crawford fairy
Coal Size/Type: nut, stove
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Post by D.lapan » Sun. Dec. 27, 2015 12:01 am

I used a Rutland high temp rtv that is black worked well and has not burnt off yet a mom d no odors after it dried

 
archangel_cpj
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Post by archangel_cpj » Sun. Dec. 27, 2015 4:03 am

Yep wrong stuff that is a void block for fire protection in construction get some Rutland high temp silicone it's good to like,1000 degrees...

 
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Photog200
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Location: Fulton, NY
Baseburners & Antiques: Colonial Clarion cook stove, Kineo #15 base burner & 2 Geneva Oak Andes #517's
Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Chestnut
Other Heating: Electric Baseboard

Post by Photog200 » Sun. Dec. 27, 2015 7:25 am

Yes, wrong stuff, I used Rutland hight temp silicone, good for up to 600℉. The ash pan door won't get that hot. The silicone will stick really well to the door frame and that is what makes this method work.

Randy

 
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tcalo
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Location: Long Island, New York
Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40
Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite

Post by tcalo » Sun. Dec. 27, 2015 10:25 am

So this is the only thing I was able to find around here. I didn't want to mail order something and have to wait a few days to get it. Temps are dropping and I need this stove running. This should work fine, it stays pliable. It's red but it'll be on the inside. Round 2

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Photog200
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Baseburners & Antiques: Colonial Clarion cook stove, Kineo #15 base burner & 2 Geneva Oak Andes #517's
Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Chestnut
Other Heating: Electric Baseboard

Post by Photog200 » Sun. Dec. 27, 2015 10:36 am

That should work...use wax this time on the door. :D

 
D.lapan
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Post by D.lapan » Sun. Dec. 27, 2015 10:48 am

A quick shot of black high temp paint will hide the red for quite a while too

 
biggerpatterson
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Location: Waynesboro,Pa
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 30-95
Coal Size/Type: nut
Other Heating: New natural gas hot air furnace inst, 2020

Post by biggerpatterson » Sun. Dec. 27, 2015 9:06 pm

Too late now but I found Black Rutland high temp silicone at Ace Hardware. From the website it looked like a stocked Item. Sure enough it was in stock at the local Ace. Sealed the ash door on my Flirt this morning. We'll fire her up tomorrow and see what happens. She was a little out of control last nite. Windowstats got a workout.


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