Our Glenwood 109
- windyhill4.2
- Member
- Posts: 6072
- Joined: Fri. Nov. 22, 2013 2:17 pm
- Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
- Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both
tcalo,both my wife & I think that stove ranks as one of our top choices....just the right amount of bling along with a simplistic design,very nice.
- tcalo
- Member
- Posts: 2068
- Joined: Tue. Dec. 13, 2011 4:57 pm
- Location: Long Island, New York
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40
- Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite
Ahhh, kids are asleep...wife and I can finally relax!
So I have some issues with the stove. I'm not too happy with the air leak through the shaker handle cover and the bad seal on the ash door. As it is I need to have the internal check damper 100% open to control the fire. I plan on letting the stove burn out and addressing these issues. Thank goodness the weather is so mild! The shaker handle cover is quite sloppy and there is a groove worn in the frame where it slides...100+ years of use! I'll fabricate a new cover out of thick steel which should help fill the gap. I'll try to tweak the pins on the ash door to tighten it up. If that doesn't work I'll run a bead of hi temp silicone around the frame and cover it with wax paper. Once it sets up I'll trim the excess then I should be good to go.
Trial and error...
So I have some issues with the stove. I'm not too happy with the air leak through the shaker handle cover and the bad seal on the ash door. As it is I need to have the internal check damper 100% open to control the fire. I plan on letting the stove burn out and addressing these issues. Thank goodness the weather is so mild! The shaker handle cover is quite sloppy and there is a groove worn in the frame where it slides...100+ years of use! I'll fabricate a new cover out of thick steel which should help fill the gap. I'll try to tweak the pins on the ash door to tighten it up. If that doesn't work I'll run a bead of hi temp silicone around the frame and cover it with wax paper. Once it sets up I'll trim the excess then I should be good to go.
Trial and error...
- joeq
- Member
- Posts: 5739
- Joined: Sat. Feb. 11, 2012 11:53 am
- Location: Northern CT
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: G111, Southard Robertson
Hey Tom, you got a good pic of the blues in there. You also mentioned when in BB mode, you can see the flames getting sucked down between the pot. I saw that last winter in my 111, and tried to get a pic of it, but they wouldn't come out. Do you think your camera is capable of catching this? Be really cool to see that in action.
(P.S. I knew you couldn't wait for the cold to crank it up And I don't blame you. I wouldn't wait either)
(P.S. I knew you couldn't wait for the cold to crank it up And I don't blame you. I wouldn't wait either)
- tcalo
- Member
- Posts: 2068
- Joined: Tue. Dec. 13, 2011 4:57 pm
- Location: Long Island, New York
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40
- Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite
I know these stoves aren't exactly air tight but I would like to button it up as much as I could.
I decided to try out Randy's trick for sealing up the ash door. I dumped the coal last night and let the stove cool down. I cleaned up the ash door lip and the stove frame to get all the polish off. I ran a bead of 3M fire sealant around the lip of the door. Randy mentioned the thickness of the wax paper over the silicone may affect the seal. I didn't have wax on hand so I decided to use bearing grease on the stove frame. I figure the sealant shouldn't stick to the grease. Whether it will affect the sealant or not...we'll see when I try to open the door tonight. I lubed up the frame and gently closed the ash door. I'll leave it closed for a few hours until it sets up, then I'll open the door (fingers crossed) and trim the excess sealant. Lastly, clean up the grease and re-polish that area of the stove. I'm not sure if I'm going to fire up the stove tonight, I may let the sealant cure until tomorrow.
I fabricated a new shaker arm plate. As I mentioned there was quite a bit of play with the old one. The frame of the stove where the plate rides has a groove worn in it and the plate itself is worn. The new plate is 1/4" steel and a bit larger than the old plate. The old plate looks like cast iron and measures 3/16 thick. I just have to make sure there is enough play to compensate for expansion. I'll check the fit tonight, then either paint or polish it. I'm stuck at work now but will get photos of both plates installed to give you an idea.
Hopefully this should fix the issues, then it's smooth sailing
I decided to try out Randy's trick for sealing up the ash door. I dumped the coal last night and let the stove cool down. I cleaned up the ash door lip and the stove frame to get all the polish off. I ran a bead of 3M fire sealant around the lip of the door. Randy mentioned the thickness of the wax paper over the silicone may affect the seal. I didn't have wax on hand so I decided to use bearing grease on the stove frame. I figure the sealant shouldn't stick to the grease. Whether it will affect the sealant or not...we'll see when I try to open the door tonight. I lubed up the frame and gently closed the ash door. I'll leave it closed for a few hours until it sets up, then I'll open the door (fingers crossed) and trim the excess sealant. Lastly, clean up the grease and re-polish that area of the stove. I'm not sure if I'm going to fire up the stove tonight, I may let the sealant cure until tomorrow.
I fabricated a new shaker arm plate. As I mentioned there was quite a bit of play with the old one. The frame of the stove where the plate rides has a groove worn in it and the plate itself is worn. The new plate is 1/4" steel and a bit larger than the old plate. The old plate looks like cast iron and measures 3/16 thick. I just have to make sure there is enough play to compensate for expansion. I'll check the fit tonight, then either paint or polish it. I'm stuck at work now but will get photos of both plates installed to give you an idea.
Hopefully this should fix the issues, then it's smooth sailing
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- tcalo
- Member
- Posts: 2068
- Joined: Tue. Dec. 13, 2011 4:57 pm
- Location: Long Island, New York
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40
- Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite
Not a machinist Joe, just like to tinker. I've been turning wrenches my whole life thanks to my father.joeq wrote:Are you a machinist?
- tcalo
- Member
- Posts: 2068
- Joined: Tue. Dec. 13, 2011 4:57 pm
- Location: Long Island, New York
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40
- Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite
I've got good news and bad news.
The new shaker arm plate fits like a glove. It's hard to tell from the photos but it closed up most of the gap. It's about as good as it's going to get. Now for a few coats of hi temp flat black paint and some polish.
The bearing grease worked awesome. The door pulled open with ease and the sealant didn't stick to the frame. It didn't really stick to the door either (which is where it was supposed to stick to). It did however make a nice impression of the mating surfaces. It dried rock hard and crumbled right off. I bet it would've sealed good. I thought maybe the grease affected how the sealant set up, but the excess from the tube I wiped up dried hard as well. Wrong stuff for this application I assume. What exactly do I need to use, hi temp silicone? Would Permatex hi temp rtv silicone work? The same stuff used for cylinder heads. The max operating temp is listed at 650 and it stays pliable.
The new shaker arm plate fits like a glove. It's hard to tell from the photos but it closed up most of the gap. It's about as good as it's going to get. Now for a few coats of hi temp flat black paint and some polish.
The bearing grease worked awesome. The door pulled open with ease and the sealant didn't stick to the frame. It didn't really stick to the door either (which is where it was supposed to stick to). It did however make a nice impression of the mating surfaces. It dried rock hard and crumbled right off. I bet it would've sealed good. I thought maybe the grease affected how the sealant set up, but the excess from the tube I wiped up dried hard as well. Wrong stuff for this application I assume. What exactly do I need to use, hi temp silicone? Would Permatex hi temp rtv silicone work? The same stuff used for cylinder heads. The max operating temp is listed at 650 and it stays pliable.
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- Member
- Posts: 771
- Joined: Sun. Jan. 18, 2015 9:40 pm
- Location: plainfield NH
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: newmac wood,coal,oil como
- Baseburners & Antiques: 20th century laurel, glenwood hickory,crawford fairy
- Coal Size/Type: nut, stove
- Contact:
I used a Rutland high temp rtv that is black worked well and has not burnt off yet a mom d no odors after it dried
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- Member
- Posts: 214
- Joined: Sat. Dec. 06, 2008 10:51 pm
Yep wrong stuff that is a void block for fire protection in construction get some Rutland high temp silicone it's good to like,1000 degrees...
- Photog200
- Member
- Posts: 2063
- Joined: Tue. Feb. 05, 2013 7:11 pm
- Location: Fulton, NY
- Baseburners & Antiques: Colonial Clarion cook stove, Kineo #15 base burner & 2 Geneva Oak Andes #517's
- Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Chestnut
- Other Heating: Electric Baseboard
Yes, wrong stuff, I used Rutland hight temp silicone, good for up to 600℉. The ash pan door won't get that hot. The silicone will stick really well to the door frame and that is what makes this method work.
Randy
Randy
- tcalo
- Member
- Posts: 2068
- Joined: Tue. Dec. 13, 2011 4:57 pm
- Location: Long Island, New York
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40
- Coal Size/Type: Nut/stove anthracite
So this is the only thing I was able to find around here. I didn't want to mail order something and have to wait a few days to get it. Temps are dropping and I need this stove running. This should work fine, it stays pliable. It's red but it'll be on the inside. Round 2
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- Photog200
- Member
- Posts: 2063
- Joined: Tue. Feb. 05, 2013 7:11 pm
- Location: Fulton, NY
- Baseburners & Antiques: Colonial Clarion cook stove, Kineo #15 base burner & 2 Geneva Oak Andes #517's
- Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Chestnut
- Other Heating: Electric Baseboard
That should work...use wax this time on the door.
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- Member
- Posts: 771
- Joined: Sun. Jan. 18, 2015 9:40 pm
- Location: plainfield NH
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: newmac wood,coal,oil como
- Baseburners & Antiques: 20th century laurel, glenwood hickory,crawford fairy
- Coal Size/Type: nut, stove
- Contact:
A quick shot of black high temp paint will hide the red for quite a while too
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- Member
- Posts: 232
- Joined: Mon. Jan. 24, 2011 8:06 pm
- Location: Waynesboro,Pa
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 30-95
- Coal Size/Type: nut
- Other Heating: New natural gas hot air furnace inst, 2020
Too late now but I found Black Rutland high temp silicone at Ace Hardware. From the website it looked like a stocked Item. Sure enough it was in stock at the local Ace. Sealed the ash door on my Flirt this morning. We'll fire her up tomorrow and see what happens. She was a little out of control last nite. Windowstats got a workout.