Our Glenwood 109

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Pancho
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Post by Pancho » Mon. Nov. 30, 2015 8:19 am

tcalo wrote:I finally figured out that the original screws are 12-24 thread size. I took one of the door knobs to my local hardware store and matched up some screws. I used standard steel screws for the 3 knobs since the hardware is on the inside of the stove and won't be visible. I would like to use black oxide finished screws for the rest of the stove but am having trouble finding them. I did manage to find a few online sites that carry them but the minimum order quantities are in the thousands and the price is quite high. What am I going to do with 6000 12-24 screws when I only need 31, haha!

It seems my options are to get standard 12-24 slotted screws and paint them black or get black oxide finished 12-24 screws with a phillips head. I know slotted screws were standard in the early 1900's and I would like to keep this stove period correct, but does it really matter? The stove will perform the same whether I use slotted or phillips screws and I'm not going for stove of the year award... :lol: . The black oxide finish may hold up better than painted hardware, just a thought.

Lastly, I think I decided to paint the barrel and back pipe. I've painted my stove before with good results.

Thoughts?
Did you try McMaster Carr?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90276a287/=10196gy

Dunno what length you need but they have pan head slotted screws (zinc plated).

Just my $.02....if the fasteners are IN the barrel, you can cheat and use an allen head screw. They are rock hard and you will never have a problem removing them. For whatever reason, the harder bolts won't lock to the cast iron in those severe conditions.

Oh, and my $.03 on the finish........stove polish.
Easy to apply, easy to touch up during the burning season and no stanky burn off period....and the looks cannot be beat.


 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Mon. Nov. 30, 2015 9:00 am

Pancho wrote:
Did you try McMaster Carr?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90276a287/=10196gy

Dunno what length you need but they have pan head slotted screws (zinc plated).

Just my $.02....if the fasteners are IN the barrel, you can cheat and use an allen head screw. They are rock hard and you will never have a problem removing them. For whatever reason, the harder bolts won't lock to the cast iron in those severe conditions.

Oh, and my $.03 on the finish........stove polish.
Easy to apply, easy to touch up during the burning season and no stanky burn off period....and the looks cannot be beat.
Pancho,

Thanks for the info. I did check out McMaster Carr. In fact I've spent the last 2 days (literally) searching high and low for the specific hardware I want. I think I burnt my internet out... :lol: . The hardware that holds the knobs on my stove are 12-24 thread, so I believe this is original size hardware. I would like 12-24 x 3/4" slotted round head black oxide/black zinc screws. I did find them through several fastener companies but the minimum orders are 1000+ and I only need 32, so this won't work. I found 12-24 phillips head black oxide screws through Amazon, but I prefer the look of slotted screws. I did find what I need in a zinc finish through Amazon for cheap so I plan on going that route. I'll just have to paint them black.

As far as finish goes, I'd have to agree with you. Nothing beats the look of polished cast iron. I actually stripped all the paint off of this stove when I got it and gave it a good polishing. The only things I plan on painting are the barrel and back pipe.

So everything is on order, time to sit back and wait!

Just a quick thanks for all the help I'm getting with this stove. Nothing like family to help you out... ;)

 
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Pancho
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Post by Pancho » Mon. Nov. 30, 2015 9:37 am

tcalo wrote:
Pancho,

Thanks for the info. I did check out McMaster Carr. In fact I've spent the last 2 days (literally) searching high and low for the specific hardware I want. I think I burnt my internet out... :lol: . The hardware that holds the knobs on my stove are 12-24 thread, so I believe this is original size hardware. I would like 12-24 x 3/4" slotted round head black oxide/black zinc screws. I did find them through several fastener companies but the minimum orders are 1000+ and I only need 32, so this won't work. I found 12-24 phillips head black oxide screws through Amazon, but I prefer the look of slotted screws. I did find what I need in a zinc finish through Amazon for cheap so I plan on going that route. I'll just have to paint them black.
For future reference, McMaster has 12-24 x 3/4 slotted in zinc for $6.97/100pc box.
As far as finish goes, I'd have to agree with you. Nothing beats the look of polished cast iron. I actually stripped all the paint off of this stove when I got it and gave it a good polishing. The only things I plan on painting are the barrel and back pipe.

So everything is on order, time to sit back and wait!

Just a quick thanks for all the help I'm getting with this stove. Nothing like family to help you out... ;)
Have you tried the polish on a nice shiny clean barrel?. It gives a nice steel blue finish that's easy to touch up (plus, I gotta admit, I love the smell of stove polish :D )

 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Mon. Nov. 30, 2015 9:54 am

Pancho wrote:For future reference, McMaster has 12-24 x 3/4 slotted in zinc for $6.97/100pc box.

Have you tried the polish on a nice shiny clean barrel?. It gives a nice steel blue finish that's easy to touch up (plus, I gotta admit, I love the smell of stove polish :D )
Pancho,

I found the same screws on Amazon for $5.50/100pc box, but thanks for looking out.

As far as polishing the bare metal, Wilson suggested the same thing. He said polishing the barrel and pipe will give it a nice blue finish. I tried polishing the barrel but the polish seemed to just wipe off with little affect, I didn't put much elbow grease into it though. Have you done this with good results? I wonder how much polish I would go through.

 
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D-frost
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Post by D-frost » Mon. Nov. 30, 2015 10:21 am

TC,
When I ordered the Herald from Wilson, I requested the barrel and back pipe to be painted. He talked me out of it, and, he was right. If you put one coat of polish on the barrel, and after that, using the same polish rag with vegetable oil to shine it, it magically turns to a blue/black shine. My $.02!
Cheers

 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Mon. Nov. 30, 2015 10:29 am

D-frost wrote:TC,
When I ordered the Herald from Wilson, I requested the barrel and back pipe to be painted. He talked me out of it, and, he was right. If you put one coat of polish on the barrel, and after that, using the same polish rag with vegetable oil to shine it, it magically turns to a blue/black shine. My $.02!
Cheers
Good to hear. Not sure what I'm going to do yet. I just wasn't seeing any results when I started polishing the barrel, thought I was doing something wrong. I think a blue finish on the barrel and pipe would go nicely with the polished cast iron. Hmmm, what to do... ;)

 
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SWPaDon
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Post by SWPaDon » Mon. Nov. 30, 2015 11:32 am

tcalo wrote:Good to hear. Not sure what I'm going to do yet. I just wasn't seeing any results when I started polishing the barrel, thought I was doing something wrong. I think a blue finish on the barrel and pipe would go nicely with the polished cast iron. Hmmm, what to do... ;)
Have you talked to Randy? Photog200

(IIRC) he seems to have good luck using thermolux flat paint, then using stove polish on top of that.


 
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Pancho
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Post by Pancho » Mon. Nov. 30, 2015 12:11 pm

tcalo wrote:
Pancho,

I found the same screws on Amazon for $5.50/100pc box, but thanks for looking out.
Yeah, McMaster is never the cheapest place but if you call by 4pm(ish) it'll be on your doorstep the next day.
As far as polishing the bare metal, Wilson suggested the same thing. He said polishing the barrel and pipe will give it a nice blue finish. I tried polishing the barrel but the polish seemed to just wipe off with little affect, I didn't put much elbow grease into it though. Have you done this with good results? I wonder how much polish I would go through.
When in doubt.....ALWAYS listen to what Wilson says. :)
What kind of polish did you try and did you shake it up real good?.

When I bought my stove from Wilson he gave me a tin of old stove polish (I forget the brand but it is no longer available) and I did an application with that. Looked great.

Mid last heating season (as well as before the start of this heating season) I applied Rutland polish. I didn't notice a difference between the polishes....both look great.

So yes, I've had great results but make sure you really shake the stuff up before you apply it. You should get a nice silvery-bluish color.

 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Mon. Nov. 30, 2015 12:57 pm

Pancho,

I use Williams Stove Polish. I assume it's made by Rutland, the back of the tube says Rutland Products. The label states it polishes unpainted steel and cast iron. It has the consistancy of mustard. It gives the cast iron a nice metallic shine, but the bare steel looks as if I didn't even apply any polish to it.

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Pancho
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Post by Pancho » Mon. Nov. 30, 2015 1:40 pm

tcalo wrote:Pancho,

I use Williams Stove Polish. I assume it's made by Rutland, the back of the tube says Rutland Products. The label states it polishes unpainted steel and cast iron. It has the consistancy of mustard. It gives the cast iron a nice metallic shine, but the bare steel looks as if I didn't even apply any polish to it.
I have never used that product....the Rutland stuff I used wasn't that thick. Maybe even though both are made by Rutland they have a different recipe?.

Dunno.

HOLD THE PRESSES...........when I get home I will verify what I used....might not have been Rutland. It might have been this stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002HO0P84/ref=p ... YP1337Y6X7

I'll check back in later and let you know. Sorry for the confusion.

 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Mon. Nov. 30, 2015 2:34 pm

scalabro wrote:The back pipe floats on the lower casting so that as the barrel grows with heat the pipe can move.
Scott, so should I seal the lower part of the rear pipe with cement? Also, should I seal where the two rear flanges come together, right where the base burner damper sits?

 
scalabro
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Post by scalabro » Mon. Nov. 30, 2015 3:37 pm

In a word, yes :)

It can be messy sealing the base damper half's so be neat! Some may disagree but I think it's important.

The bottom of the backpipe will heat up and move even though you cement it but cementing it makes for a tighter stove overall. I hope that's not too confusing a statement :lol:

BTW it looks great I'm jealous....

 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Mon. Nov. 30, 2015 3:59 pm

scalabro wrote:BTW it looks great I'm jealous....
Thanks for the compliment Scott. Jealous of what...you have 3 Crawford 40's taking up real estate... :lol:

 
scalabro
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Post by scalabro » Mon. Nov. 30, 2015 4:04 pm

Yes....but I do not own a Glenwood BB ..... yet :shock:

 
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tcalo
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Post by tcalo » Tue. Dec. 01, 2015 12:34 am

I think I may have run into a pickle with the flue. I plan to vent straight out the top of the back pipe but I'm having trouble finding an oval to round adaptor to make the transition. Looks like I'm making a trip to my local sheet metal shop to get something fabricated.


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