First Time Stoker Stove Buyer Questions

bob15 · Post by **bob15** » Mon. Aug. 31, 2015 7:48 pm

As a free wood burner for 30+ years, it looks like I will be converting over to coal after this upcoming winter (still have enough free wood for one more winter), I have a couple questions with regards to stoker stoves in case I find a good deal on one before winter in through.

I was looking at the Hitzer 608 and the Chenning 3, with a lean towards the Hitzer (not sure why.....). The house the stove will be heating is a 115 year old 1300 sq ft two story house, with insulated walls and less than 10 year old window. Now the questions:

The Hitzer has a coal-trol, what does the Alaskan use (their website doesn't mention coal-trol)? Is it similar to the coal-trol? Is one any "better" or reliable than the other?

I was going to use my existing 6" Class A SS chimney (Secure Temp ASHT+). Has anyone else used this chimney pipe with coal? I've read some people have rust issue and others haven't. With my chimney going only vertical, will that help any with less corrosion?

With using my chimney and not needing a power vent, how loud are the stove blowers? The location of the stove will be only 3-4 feet from a chair and maybe 5-6' from the TV. Are the stove blowers actually load or just a hum (I haven't seen one running at a store)?

Longevity with both stoves, any complaints with either?

Could someone sway me away from the 608 and to the Chenning 3? Or are they (Hitzer & Alaskan) like comparing Chevy & ford)? And yes, I am a red bowtie, Chevy man.

thanks in advance, and this has been a great forum for learning about burnin' coal.

tsb · Post by **tsb** » Mon. Aug. 31, 2015 8:03 pm

They make noise. They also make lots of heat.
I would compare it to a new window air conditioner for noise level.
You should go see one in action before getting one.

Doby · Post by **Doby** » Mon. Aug. 31, 2015 9:16 pm

The coal trol is basically a thermostat that is specifically designed fora coal stove to keep the room at a set temp good setup but more complicated. The channing III uses a controll box to ajust the amount/height of fire thus the amount of heat the stove puts out, less complicated but harder to control heat output.I personally use the standard control box on the alaska's I have with no problem. The channing can be fitted with a coaltrol no problem but for a additional cost so you have to consider the cost of each stove and add the coaltrol to the channing if that would be what you need. Alaska also offers there own thermostat system.

The channing will heat your house, I can heat 2500sqft,they are a good stove very simple and easy to maintain. I have had the kast counsel version of this stove( same stoker differnt stove body) for 12 years, never a part other then gaskets and glass witch is standard maintenance items. The channing I have is 3 years old purchased used and have been running 1 season so no parts there

I'm a strict chevy man and I do think it can be compared to a chevy ford thing.

Noise could be a problem with you 3 to 4 ft away not so much from the stove running to feed coal and produce heat but when you crank the convection blower on in cold period, I would compare it to a air conditioner on medium when the convection blower is running mid to full bore. Plus its going to be hot sitting that close

Any other questions about the channing just fire away

bob15 · Post by **bob15** » Tue. Sep. 01, 2015 7:04 am

The chair location to the stove is the same as it is to my wood stove which is around 65k btu, when I crack the door and allow the fire to start cranking. Actually it's the warmest spot in the house......

I will definitely have to find a store that will let me hear the blowers running. That seems to be my biggest concern.

With regards to strokers and the ash pan. Do I shut the blowers off and then open the bottom door for the ash pan? I would assume I can still keep the stove burning to remove the pan. With my wood stove, I just push the hot coals to one side and scoop the ashes out and then push the coals to the other side and do the same, without needing to let the stove "go out". I'm thinking the stokers would be similar with regards to keeping the coals burning.

Thanks for the Chenning info. That helps a lot with my decision, because I have seen used ones around CT as well, most around $1-1,500. Used is also a consideration, if it has been cared for....

I appreciate the help

WNYRob · Post by **WNYRob** » Tue. Sep. 01, 2015 8:08 am

What ever combustion blowers are being used, you want to turn them off or that will increase the likely hood of fly ash blowing in your face and into the room. The coal will stay hot for quite a while without air being blown through it. More time than you will need to change out the pan. I have a wet dry vac with a hepa filter running while I am changing out my pan, to catch any wayward drifting fly ash. It takes me about 5 minutes to change out the pan, vacuum the inside of the stove and clean out the exhaust tubes, and the coal is still red when I put the air back to it, when I am done cleaning.

Pacowy · Post by **Pacowy** » Tue. Sep. 01, 2015 9:11 am

Welcome to the forum, bob15.

It's especially easy with 2 ash pans. Power off - door open - full pan out - empty pan in - door closed - power on - empty pan when it's convenient.

Mike

Doby · Post by **Doby** » Tue. Sep. 01, 2015 8:59 pm

I only shut of the convection blower IMHO the combustion blower that feeds air to the fire don't cause dust at all and what dust there is gets sucked out the vent system at least thats what I see with my systems and yes you will never let the stove go out to empty the ash pan and no more pushing hot coals around and scooping, simply pull the ash pan out and empty then put it back in. I am more concerned with black dust when filling the hopper, I hold a shop vac there and it gets most of it

Your going to have 85 to 90K now so you won't run the convection blower much or maybe only on low.

I would absolutly shop for a used channing they can be had for a 1000 bucks in decent shape, you are problably best with the newer style paddle feed if possible so if you find one on CL link the post here and I'll get you up to speed on what your dealing with

WNYRob · Post by **WNYRob** » Wed. Sep. 02, 2015 7:42 am

The other reason to shut the combustion fan off is so you don't blow excessive flue gases into the room (no real health risks, just a little stinky). You temporarily loose the natural draft once you fully open the door(s), so fumes will exit stove. I usually stop the combustion fan and crack the door slightly and let the chimney draft clear out the excess gases, and then open it up and do my work.

Also, I shut off the coal feed while working on the stove. If you have burnt coal falling off the grates, that puff of fly ash that flies up when the coal lands will just make for a little messier situation. Again, the coal will still stay hot, just make sure you turn everything back on when you are done.

bob15 · Post by **bob15** » Sun. Sep. 06, 2015 9:30 am

I thought I would give an update to my stove quest....

I got to hear a Channing 3 on Friday and found the blowers too loud for my taste. Between the distance chair would be in relation to the stove, not to mention the TV closeness and the overall room size, it was too much. The sound is about the same as my portable AC unit when only the fan runs (compressor off), which though somewhat quiet, is still too much for me and the "boss".

I guess silence can be golden. Now it is hopper stove search-time.

thanks for the help.....