Magnehelic Install Help
- BlueMountains
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I found the sweetspot when I first started running my coal this week on my new stove. Got 3 consistant days of 15-18 hours of runtime on my coal but now the weather changed and I am in an overfire im guessing because I cant keep the coal from burning out within a 6-8 hours now.
I have a 0-0.25 magnehelic and need help with the install. I don't have the room for the proper install here are some pics. Can I instal it even though I don't have straight pipe sections?
I have a 0-0.25 magnehelic and need help with the install. I don't have the room for the proper install here are some pics. Can I instal it even though I don't have straight pipe sections?
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- BlueMountains
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PS: Yes that is really where my MPD was installed just above the elbow, once the pipe gets past the wall its a straight shot of tripple insulated pipe for 22 feet.
- northernmainecoal
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There should be room in the stovepipe elbow between the stove and MPD to install the mano. If I were you though I would flip that elbow around so it slips over the outside of the cast elbow, the way it is connected now I'd be awfully concerned about it slipping out
- freetown fred
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I'm thinkin it won't fit over the cast but I WOULD twist the black elbow & get a tight fit--I'd be more concerned w/ CO leakage. Why do you want to put a Baro on that old stove????????
- BlueMountains
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I think my draft is pulling hard and I want to verify it with a installed magnehelic so I can regulate the MPD accordinly for the best burn.freetown fred wrote:I'm thinkin it won't fit over the cast but I WOULD twist the black elbow & get a tight fit--I'd be more concerned w/ CO leakage. Why do you want to put a Baro on that old stove????????
- McGiever
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If your asking about a barometric damper, you might change you title.
- freetown fred
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OK, how ya gonna get that black elbow tighter--ya gotta have leakage there??? I'm thinkin maybe manometer???
- BlueMountains
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This was the install I am refering to.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009P9E5BC?psc=1 ... PDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009P9E5BC?psc=1 ... PDKIKX0DER
- McGiever
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Sure enough, that's a magnehelic.
You only need room for a drilled hole and a fitting (90* or 45*) maybe, then a 6"-10" piece of steel or copper tubing and then the rest can be flexible tubing to the magnehelic.
You only need room for a drilled hole and a fitting (90* or 45*) maybe, then a 6"-10" piece of steel or copper tubing and then the rest can be flexible tubing to the magnehelic.
- northernmainecoal
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It's a tight fit, but it will fit over (at least it did on mine).freetown fred wrote:I'm thinkin it won't fit over the cast but I WOULD twist the black elbow & get a tight fit--I'd be more concerned w/ CO leakage. Why do you want to put a Baro on that old stove????????
- Sunny Boy
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As Mac said, the gauge gets plumbed into the stove pipe through a small hole drilled in the pipe. Best place is in a straight section of pipe, not at any bends where flow turbulence can give false mano readings.
With that model 2000 Dwyer you'll need to make a way to mount it some where. That model is meant for mounting into a hole in a gauge panel.
You might find it easier to use the Dwyer model 25 that most of us use.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PAN3C8/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
The model 25 is less expensive, just as accurate, and easier to install. It simply screws to a wall with two small screws. Comes with the rubber tubing. You only need to get a short length of small brake tubing to slip into a hole drilled into the stove pipe. Then slip the tubing over the brake tubing and slide the brake tubing a couple of inches into the stove pipe. No need to permanently fasten the tubes, a snug slip-fit is plenty good enough.
Here's a pic of my range's mano install. No need to seal the tube to the stove pipe. If the drilled hole is only big enough to just slip the metal tubing in, the air leakage in through around the tubing is miniscule and won't affect readings because the flue gas volume is so much greater and the opening of the tip of the tubing is a couple of inches into the flue gas stream.
Paul
With that model 2000 Dwyer you'll need to make a way to mount it some where. That model is meant for mounting into a hole in a gauge panel.
You might find it easier to use the Dwyer model 25 that most of us use.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PAN3C8/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
The model 25 is less expensive, just as accurate, and easier to install. It simply screws to a wall with two small screws. Comes with the rubber tubing. You only need to get a short length of small brake tubing to slip into a hole drilled into the stove pipe. Then slip the tubing over the brake tubing and slide the brake tubing a couple of inches into the stove pipe. No need to permanently fasten the tubes, a snug slip-fit is plenty good enough.
Here's a pic of my range's mano install. No need to seal the tube to the stove pipe. If the drilled hole is only big enough to just slip the metal tubing in, the air leakage in through around the tubing is miniscule and won't affect readings because the flue gas volume is so much greater and the opening of the tip of the tubing is a couple of inches into the flue gas stream.
Paul
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- windyhill4.2
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OR, go to mosesbglick.com for a real good price on a used gauge,a magnehelic of course,they are less fuss & maintenance.
- tcalo
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Some advantages I see with model 25 over model 2000 is it has to ability to read both positive and negative and it's a bit easier to read at lower settings due to the larger increments.
- warminmn
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It looks cooler too! A brake line, leaving the nut on it. Drill the hole barely big enough to screw it into. Then a rubber hose, like from a windshield washer, connected to the gauge from the brake line... all that being if your gauge has the same fittings as a mano. But with that neat looking gauge a copper line may look neater.
You may want to consider screwing your pipe onto the stove just to be safe. Even a small hole with a small bolt will work and is sometimes easier, especially with cast iron. You could get one of those poof's some here have and your pipe could blow off.
You may want to consider screwing your pipe onto the stove just to be safe. Even a small hole with a small bolt will work and is sometimes easier, especially with cast iron. You could get one of those poof's some here have and your pipe could blow off.
- brunom15
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I'd suggest this magnehelic instead, it will let you know when your chimney is reverse drafting:
http://www.amazon.com/Dwyer-Magnehelic-Differenti ... Q24RX1KKGB
Accuracy is +/- 2% of full scale throughout the range, which comes out to +/- .005" w.c.
The Series Mark II 25 is rated at +/- 3% of full scale. It measures up to 3" w.c. full scale, which comes out to +/- .09" w.c. Nowhere near as accurate as the 2000, though given the curved manometer tube I suspect the accuracy is far better at the low end of the range. With the 2000 you also don't have to worry about fluid contamination/replacement, careful leveling, etc. it's maintenance free. You just have to mount it in a reasonably vertical position. Also, the gauge is 4" in diameter, so reading it shouldn't be a problem for most people. But then, against all that the 25 is 1/3 the cost of the 2000.
Personally I have the 25, as I didn't know about the 2000 when I bought mine. It's good enough, but if I had to do it over again, I would get the magnehelic instead.
Bruno
http://www.amazon.com/Dwyer-Magnehelic-Differenti ... Q24RX1KKGB
Accuracy is +/- 2% of full scale throughout the range, which comes out to +/- .005" w.c.
The Series Mark II 25 is rated at +/- 3% of full scale. It measures up to 3" w.c. full scale, which comes out to +/- .09" w.c. Nowhere near as accurate as the 2000, though given the curved manometer tube I suspect the accuracy is far better at the low end of the range. With the 2000 you also don't have to worry about fluid contamination/replacement, careful leveling, etc. it's maintenance free. You just have to mount it in a reasonably vertical position. Also, the gauge is 4" in diameter, so reading it shouldn't be a problem for most people. But then, against all that the 25 is 1/3 the cost of the 2000.
Personally I have the 25, as I didn't know about the 2000 when I bought mine. It's good enough, but if I had to do it over again, I would get the magnehelic instead.
Bruno