Stove Too Hot...Settings?
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The high limit is the boss, or should be. At 220 I would expect to hear the flo chek rattling a bit.
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I have no wires going to the ZR terminal. It appears the wire leading to the on/off switch that feeds into the timer goes to the B1 terminal. My stoker wire also goes to the b1 terminal. Perhaps they both go to this terminal for a reason?
- Rob R.
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Without looking at the entire install it is tough for any of us to say why it is wired a certain way. One thing is for sure, if you don't have a separate aquastat to operate a dump zone and/or function as a high limit control, it needs to be rewired.
Refer to page 15 in the EFM manual.
http://cdn.efmheating.com/DF520-Installation.pdf
Also, is there a jumper between the TT terminals in the aquastat?
Refer to page 15 in the EFM manual.
http://cdn.efmheating.com/DF520-Installation.pdf
Also, is there a jumper between the TT terminals in the aquastat?
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The thermostat wires are jumped on the EFM and the oil burner.
It appears leveling the timer the temp dropped down a lot. It was running at three minutes an hour, down to 1 50 seconds, temp down to 170,
It appears leveling the timer the temp dropped down a lot. It was running at three minutes an hour, down to 1 50 seconds, temp down to 170,
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You still do not have a functioning high limit and you must find out why. Limiting running time with a timer is not an acceptable or safe alternative.
With the burner running, lower the high limit setting until it cuts off the burner. You can then note any discrepancy between its setting and actual boiler temp. If it does not stop the burner even when turned all the way down, then it is either wired wrong, or is defective, or is just not sensing the temperature because of location or muddied up well.
With the burner running, lower the high limit setting until it cuts off the burner. You can then note any discrepancy between its setting and actual boiler temp. If it does not stop the burner even when turned all the way down, then it is either wired wrong, or is defective, or is just not sensing the temperature because of location or muddied up well.
- Scottscoaled
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If the TT terminals are jumped on the aquastats, then you are running on high limit.
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Is it fine to keep the TT jumped and to have the thermostat wired to b1, instead of the ZR terminal? The overheating appears to be fixed with the timer leveling and fine tuning it, set on one minute timer actually runs for two minutes?
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You did not fix anything. you just headed off a dangerous situation and decided to run the boiler without its primary safety control. What will happen when you need the boiler for heat? if you are lucky the installed radiation will keep the boiler water in check, except for the first warm day. The low limit should control water temperature until a thermostat call overrides it with a call across the TT terminals which should not be jumped. Control is then by the high limit. An oil burner man should be able to troubleshoot if you can't find anyone else and can't do it yourself.
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I guess the question is how to I go about making the needed changes? I'm sure Doug set it up this way for a reason.....I have a bit to learn, but should be able to figure it out with some support?
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Does your system have an indirect water heater? Does the hot water come from a coil in the back of the boiler?
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The system has many components. It was set up with a coil in the EFM, indirect HW heater and a separate oil boiler. The zones tie into a TACO mult zone controller and so does the indirect. Doug installed an on/off for the oil burner, separate switch for the controller (on/off) and on/off switch for each zone including the indirect. It was very well planned out, just trying to figure out if we should adjust the TT terminal?
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Since it presumably ran OK last winter and the Taco controller, which I am not familiar with, is used for the thermostat and circulator, you have to leave the TT jumped. I still don't like that because it eliminates the low limit aquastat. Jumping the TT terminals normally starts the circulator and bypasses the low limit. The circulator relay is always on with that jumper and is presumably stopped by the Taco controller.
The water is too hot because the timer was allowing the burner to run too long which you fixed. The problem is that the high limit should have cut off the burner before that. Do as I suggested and manually lower the high limit setting with the burner running to see if that will stop the burner at some point. If it does not you have to suspect a bad control or that it has been running that way since installation because of the way it is wired. In any case you have to have a high limit that works.
The water is too hot because the timer was allowing the burner to run too long which you fixed. The problem is that the high limit should have cut off the burner before that. Do as I suggested and manually lower the high limit setting with the burner running to see if that will stop the burner at some point. If it does not you have to suspect a bad control or that it has been running that way since installation because of the way it is wired. In any case you have to have a high limit that works.
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So with the taco the jumping is fine now? A little confused?
I did bring the high limit down on the stove to 140 while the stove was running with a temp of 188 or so, didn't shut off the stove.....?
I did bring the high limit down on the stove to 140 while the stove was running with a temp of 188 or so, didn't shut off the stove.....?
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franco b wrote:Since it presumably ran OK last winter and the Taco controller, which I am not familiar with, is used for the thermostat and circulator, you have to leave the TT jumped. I still don't like that because it eliminates the low limit aquastat. Jumping the TT terminals normally starts the circulator and bypasses the low limit. The circulator relay is always on with that jumper and is presumably stopped by the Taco controller.
The water is too hot because the timer was allowing the burner to run too long which you fixed. The problem is that the high limit should have cut off the burner before that. Do as I suggested and manually lower the high limit setting with the burner running to see if that will stop the burner at some point. If it does not you have to suspect a bad control or that it has been running that way since installation because of the way it is wired. In any case you have to have a high limit that works.
Don't mean to cut in here the wrong way but,,,,,a lot of what you are saying isn't correct. The low limit isn't to shut the burner off, it is to keep the circulator from running when the boiler temp is too low. It isn't disabled if the TT is jumped causing a heat call. It doesn't matter anyway if it is disabled or not, the zone controller runs the circulator pump/pumps. If the timer was wired thru the ZR terminal, then it wouldn't run the stoker when it is over temp. We all ready know it isn't wired correct as he said the wire coming from the timer is landed on B1 terminal instead of the ZR terminal. I'm wondering if the Indirect is fed from the Domestic coils in the boilers?