Puff the Magic Glenwood No. 8

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Fri. Sep. 25, 2015 5:04 pm

Right on fellas, it's all about lowering the neutral pressure plane to where the stove is. Opening a window, or opening the basement door as described above would accomplish that. :)


 
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BlueMountains
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Post by BlueMountains » Fri. Oct. 07, 2016 2:27 pm

Hello guys!

Hope you all had a wonderful summer and now that fall is here it's time to fire up the Glenwood NO. 8 smoke dragon.

 
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Post by BlueMountains » Fri. Oct. 07, 2016 2:37 pm

Stove update:

Once again Wilson has helped me out again and possibly saved my marriage. Lol. He has a few mor parts for me which I believe he just finished casting so I can't wait to install them on the stove.

So the issue of smoke was caused by 2 primary issues on the stove.

1. The stove pipe had two large holes drilled into it from the stove company that installed it for me and I had to plug them. The pipe eventually connects to the stove and at that connection was a 1/4" gap that also acted as a break for the draft. I used more herculiner and plugged all those holes.

2. The other issue is on the stove itself. I used incense to check for leaks all over the stove and found two under the baseburner section. I included a picture of the area I filled in with herculiner. This caused the stove to have poor control and almost unlimited air to fuel the fire. The stove had poor draft due to too many holes in the stove pipe and too much in-leakage on the baseburner side. I also found the the baseburner door seals terribly. I don't see a way to seal it.

Blue

Attachments

IMG_6191.JPG

If you look in the corner you can see where it wasn't sealed and allowed lots of air in the stove. This is the baseburner section near the ash tray.

.JPG | 158.6KB | IMG_6191.JPG
IMG_6193.JPG

I sealed the cast iron section that attached to the stove. Had a 1/4" gap that broke all my draft.

.JPG | 154KB | IMG_6193.JPG
Last edited by BlueMountains on Fri. Oct. 07, 2016 2:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Post by BlueMountains » Fri. Oct. 07, 2016 2:39 pm

The baseburner lever is also very sloppy, any way to seal this??? It was either very warm out or replaced by a smaller diameter lever.

Blue

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IMG_6202.JPG
.JPG | 94.7KB | IMG_6202.JPG

 
KingCoal
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Post by KingCoal » Fri. Oct. 07, 2016 3:01 pm

i would all but guarantee that is not a factory or any way proper base burner damper shaft and i'd also bet what ever is on it doesn't close either side properly.

it's a shame because to fix that you will have to take the part above it that you just sealed back off.

you're getting there though and when you have all these little gremlins excised you'll have a great, very controllable stove.

steve

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Fri. Oct. 07, 2016 3:36 pm

KingCoal wrote:i would all but guarantee that is not a factory or any way proper base burner damper shaft and i'd also bet what ever is on it doesn't close either side properly.

it's a shame because to fix that you will have to take the part above it that you just sealed back off.

you're getting there though and when you have all these little gremlins excised you'll have a great, very controllable stove.

steve
Agreed. It's not the original damper handle. The original handle and shaft is cast iron, slightly flat and rounded over on the end - not bent steel rod. They sometimes crack where they fasten to the damper plate and that's likely why your was replaced. And the shaft is stepped up to a larger diameter where it goes through that hole in the back pipe so that there is no gap more than need to let it rotate freely.

No need to remove the shaft. You can make a bushing to close off most of that gap by cutting a strip of sheet metal and wrap it around the shaft. If it's really thin, like 22 gauge of thinner, you might have to wrap it around more than one turn to get enough thickness to fill the gap. You might have to experiment with the strip length to get just enough to fill the gap without binding the shaft.

Then gently slide the sheet metal bushing along the shaft and press it into that hole in the back pipe seam. Not too tight a fit or it will open that seam.

Paul

 
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Post by BlueMountains » Fri. Oct. 07, 2016 4:05 pm

Great idea Paul I will try that one when I get back to the house in 10 days. Meanwhile she will be running it. I've run it full bore to throttled down without any smoke issues so far.


 
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Post by nortcan » Fri. Oct. 07, 2016 5:31 pm

Hi, an other solution would be to wrap a small rope gasket around the shaft and push it in, just what is needed to fill the gap, rope gasket is soft and will fill the not perfectly round spots. Flat rope gasket is a good one for filling gap like that. Having a lot of rope gasket kits is a must for a stove owner :)
Rope gasket is one of the best way to solve the air leak problems when having some support to keep them in place, I did a lot on my sold Golden Bride base burner and on the Sunnyside Baltimore Heater also a base burner.

 
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Post by BlueMountains » Fri. Oct. 07, 2016 8:40 pm

Does anyone have pictures of the original handle? I'm seriously having a bad case of handle envy now.

Blue

 
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Post by Merc300d » Fri. Oct. 07, 2016 9:02 pm

image.jpeg
.JPEG | 89.7KB | image.jpeg
Here you go ....

 
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Post by Merc300d » Fri. Oct. 07, 2016 9:27 pm

Wilson (skip ) should have everything you need for your handle dilemma.

 
KingCoal
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Post by KingCoal » Sat. Oct. 08, 2016 7:59 am

Sunny Boy wrote:
KingCoal wrote:i would all but guarantee that is not a factory or any way proper base burner damper shaft and i'd also bet what ever is on it doesn't close either side properly.

it's a shame because to fix that you will have to take the part above it that you just sealed back off.

you're getting there though and when you have all these little gremlins excised you'll have a great, very controllable stove.

steve
Agreed. It's not the original damper handle. The original handle and shaft is cast iron, slightly flat and rounded over on the end - not bent steel rod. They sometimes crack where they fasten to the damper plate and that's likely why your was replaced. And the shaft is stepped up to a larger diameter where it goes through that hole in the back pipe so that there is no gap more than need to let it rotate freely.

No need to remove the shaft. You can make a bushing to close off most of that gap by cutting a strip of sheet metal and wrap it around the shaft. If it's really thin, like 22 gauge of thinner, you might have to wrap it around more than one turn to get enough thickness to fill the gap. You might have to experiment with the strip length to get just enough to fill the gap without binding the shaft.

Then gently slide the sheet metal bushing along the shaft and press it into that hole in the back pipe seam. Not too tight a fit or it will open that seam.

Paul
i'm still concerned about the damper itself inside the back pipe. is the original in there ? or is there some muddled up replacement ?

point being, i'm wondering if the alignments are appropriate to allow which ever it is to close properly in both directions ? you might be able to see with very bright light from either inside the stove or from the stack side with the smoke pipe off.

all the best,
steve

 
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Post by wilsons woodstoves » Sat. Oct. 08, 2016 8:47 am

you can change the damper and shaft through the round 6 inch exhust hole ,but you have to take the pipe off wilson

 
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Post by Sunny Boy » Sat. Oct. 08, 2016 10:30 am

KingCoal wrote:
Sunny Boy wrote:
Agreed. It's not the original damper handle. The original handle and shaft is cast iron, slightly flat and rounded over on the end - not bent steel rod. They sometimes crack where they fasten to the damper plate and that's likely why your was replaced. And the shaft is stepped up to a larger diameter where it goes through that hole in the back pipe so that there is no gap more than need to let it rotate freely.

No need to remove the shaft. You can make a bushing to close off most of that gap by cutting a strip of sheet metal and wrap it around the shaft. If it's really thin, like 22 gauge of thinner, you might have to wrap it around more than one turn to get enough thickness to fill the gap. You might have to experiment with the strip length to get just enough to fill the gap without binding the shaft.

Then gently slide the sheet metal bushing along the shaft and press it into that hole in the back pipe seam. Not too tight a fit or it will open that seam.

Paul
i'm still concerned about the damper itself inside the back pipe. is the original in there ? or is there some muddled up replacement ?

point being, i'm wondering if the alignments are appropriate to allow which ever it is to close properly in both directions ? you might be able to see with very bright light from either inside the stove or from the stack side with the smoke pipe off.

all the best,
steve
If it's the original damper plate, or one the same size, it should center itself in the back pipe when closed regardless of the sloppy fit of the handle/shaft. Being loose the shaft will allow the damper to rest where it needs to when closed. In the open position it doesn't matter about fit. The worry then is the after-firebed air leak around the undersized shaft will dilute the flue gas temps making the stove a bit less responsive, if the chimney system draft strength is not strong.

 
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Post by BlueMountains » Sat. Oct. 08, 2016 10:51 am

I did install a draft magnehelic to check draft and its been running perfect. That's what initially confused me was that I did have a good draft and the stove smoked. I never get above .06 (if im reading it right) and it usually runs around .035-.05 range all winter.

I need to try the screws in the front gas ring trick to block the air inflow so I can really slow her down more.

Blue


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