Maintenance on My AA 260

 
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Rick 386
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Post by Rick 386 » Sat. Nov. 05, 2016 10:40 pm

So to update the hitting fan issue.

Got the parts as suggested by Pete Axeman. There are 2 bushing isolators that attach to the lateral cross bar that supports the motor/fan pedestal. The isolator bushings have a threaded shaft on each side attached to a rubber insert. Then there are 2 additional bushing isolators that attach to the base of the pedestal support for the fan. They also sent a large bushing isolator that does not match up to anything that I have on my unit. And a torque control arm with a bushing isolator on it.

So on my unit, I was only able to replace the 2 bushing isolators on the lateral arm and the 2 at the base of the pedestal.

In order to do this repair, it requires removing the nuts and washers from both sides of the bushing isolator. To remove the nut and washers from the auger side of the boiler, it required removing the asher arm assembly and just setting is on the shelf of the boiler. This is to gain access to the nut on the isolator.

After removing the nuts and washers, you will also have to loosen the bolts that connect the lateral bar to the vertical pedestal post. This allows the vertical bar to move enough to remove the isolators. I had to use a sawzall to remove the isolator under the auger. To remove the isolators from under the pedestal requires wedging blocks under the pedestal to hold it in place. Just don't press too hard or you may possibly bend the shaft.

After replacing the isolators, you need to double check that the fan shaft is centered in the shaft hole into the boiler. Adjustments are available via slotted attachment points of the isolator brackets.

Attached are pics of the bad isolators, and their location.
20161105_221832_resized.jpg

These should be parallel to each other

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20161105_221836_resized.jpg

Motor side isolator bushing

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20161105_221848_resized.jpg

These bolts must be loosened

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20161105_221918_resized.jpg

Auger side isolator. Not enough clearance to nut washers so asher need to be removed

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20161105_221900_resized.jpg

Pedestal base isolator location

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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Sat. Nov. 05, 2016 11:56 pm

So, do you know if the operation was a success? :)

 
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Rick 386
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Post by Rick 386 » Sun. Nov. 06, 2016 9:16 am

McGiever wrote:So, do you know if the operation was a success? :)
Yes it was. After replacing the isolator bushings, I did realign the fan shaft to be in the center of the shaft hole. I spun the shaft by hand which told me that I had to adjust the lower pedestal bushings to tilt the fan shaft upwards slightly. After that, no more fan hitting at all.

Rick

 
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Post by StokerDon » Sun. Nov. 06, 2016 11:05 am

Nice!

-Don

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Sun. Nov. 06, 2016 11:08 am

Is the EFM oil boiler out of service now? based on your pictures it looks like only the 260 is hooked up.

 
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Rick 386
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Post by Rick 386 » Sun. Nov. 06, 2016 3:30 pm

Yes Rob the EFM is out of service.

We only have 1 flue so it's an either coal or oil deal.

Was going to replumb the EFM now but the "commander in chief" says to let it sit there so if there is an issue she could switch over to oil herself...

Rick

 
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Post by Rob R. » Sun. Nov. 06, 2016 5:35 pm

Is everything water tight?

You should have no air problems with that air scoop and pump arrangement.


 
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Rick 386
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Post by Rick 386 » Mon. Nov. 07, 2016 8:51 am

Rob R. wrote:Is everything water tight?

You should have no air problems with that air scoop and pump arrangement.
Well I guess the answer is yes and no.

All of my plumbing is watertight. No leaks at all in any of my fittings, valves, etc. BUT..................................................
I have noticed an increase in the boiler pressure since I initially filled it. I originally thought that it was due to the boiler coming up to temp and cycling a few times. So I bled off about 1- 1 1/2 gallons of water. Then the pressure came up again. And I drained about the same amount again. But with the pressure still increasing every few days, that can only mean 1 thing------------leaking DHW coil. :mad:

So I will order 1 and have it sitting here until I get a warm weekend and can shut her down and replace it hopefully before the real cold temps start.

When I first ran the circ pumps, I did hear gurgling from the air separator and bubbles headed toward the compression tank. So the first bubbles came out real easy.

Rick

 
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Post by lzaharis » Mon. Nov. 07, 2016 9:17 am

Hello Rick,

Sorry to hear about the issues with the Domestic Hot Water Coil.
That is the only thing that makes sense as the problem with
pressure rising in the steam chest.

I have been using dinosaur juice as the temperatures have not
been favorable for burning the magic black rocks.

I think it will be safe to pull the air conditioner from
the window now though.

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Mon. Nov. 07, 2016 9:45 am

I would shut off the water to the coil and see if you still have an increasing pressure problem before changing the coil. The PRVs can leak too, I'm on my third in 24 years and never swapped a DHW coil. They don't live a long time on well water.

 
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Rick 386
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Post by Rick 386 » Mon. Nov. 07, 2016 10:38 am

coaledsweat wrote:I would shut off the water to the coil and see if you still have an increasing pressure problem before changing the coil. The PRVs can leak too, I'm on my third in 24 years and never swapped a DHW coil. They don't live a long time on well water.
I did install a brand new PRV as part of the maintenance.

I cannot shut off the coil as that would leave us without any DHW. And I don't think the wife or mother in law would like that !!!!

It must not be a huge leak. It takes a couple days to add the 1 - 1 1/2 gallons and build up the pressure. This will be the 3rd coil to be replaced since the AA 260 was purchased used in 1983. I think the last time was in 1998. And the unit used to be taken off line for the summer. Then about 8 - 9 years ago we decided to run it all year due to the high cost of oil. And it probably didn't help it at all when I decided to do the maintenance and I removed it to replace/repair the coil studs and replace the gasket. The coil was taken out and put in a couple of times to make sure the studs were in the correct location.

Of course I used an adequate amount of RTV and a new gasket when I was ready to install it. :mad:

I think after the last replacement was when we added the water softener.....

And of course this is after I added boiler treatment for I think the first time ever. I decided to add it since using the new air separator should keep the system totally contained. Leaks in the old plumbing would cause me to have to add water during the winter season. And I know from reading here that adding water increases the oxygen in the system leading to corrosion of the boiler.

BTW, how do most here add boiler treatment to an already filled system ????

Rick

 
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Post by lzaharis » Mon. Nov. 07, 2016 11:08 am

Hello Rick,

I would be more worried about the well waters PH after it passes
through the softener before I messed with the boiler treatment.

Have the boiler water tested for its PH before you fire it up and then decide
as boiler treatment is usually done for boilers with air gaps in their
water tanks like those Nasty Open To Air System Forest Eaters or our
"blessed" coal boilers making steam to help reduce corrosion.

I have never used boiler treatment nor did I add any when the
new stoker was installed after the system was drained to install it.
Did you install a new Back Flow Prevention Valve when you did your
repair work? I had a new one installed as the one in the system
could not be reused for the new system anyway as it was soldered
in place on the water filling line to the oil boiler.

 
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Rick 386
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Post by Rick 386 » Mon. Nov. 07, 2016 1:52 pm

lzaharis wrote: Did you install a new Back Flow Prevention Valve when you did your
repair work?
20161013_212743_resized.jpg
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The gate valve under the air separator is MY backflow preventer. toothy

I control when and if water enters the system.

Rick

 
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Post by Rob R. » Mon. Nov. 07, 2016 7:32 pm

Boiler treatment is still common, and often a good idea due to water chemistry - many of the coal boiler manufactures used to recommend its use on new installations. Van Wert did, EFM still does - not sure about the rest. Fernox is well known and comes in some easy to use cans. Check out the video.


 
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Rick 386
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Stoker Coal Boiler: AA 260 heating both sides of twin farmhouse
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Coal Size/Type: Pea in AA 260, Rice in LL Hyfire II
Other Heating: Gas fired infared at work
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Post by Rick 386 » Thu. Nov. 17, 2016 1:55 pm

Update

So the new DHW coil arrived yesterday. I didn't think it looked the same as the one I took out when I started this rehab project. But the last one was replaced in 1998 so I figured there might have been changes made over the years in greater efficiency, etc. so just waited until I got home to check it out further.

Come to find out that they shipped me a coil for an AA 130 instead of an AA 260. Biggest difference is the tubing size. The AA 260 uses 3/4" pipe vs. 1/2" on the AA 130.

A quick call to Anne at AA this morning and I have the proper one on its way. Although I had to pay for overnight delivery so I can replace this thing before the big chill arrives.

So tomorrow morning I will shut off the power to the combustion fan and hopefully bleed off some fire and heat prior to switching the coils on either Friday night or Saturday morning depending on the boiler temp. This is the ONLY downfall to the AA units. The damn fire stays lit for so long..........

Rick


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