Is that 155k input, gross output or net output?
Thanks.
Mike
Outdoor Coal Boiler?
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- Member
- Posts: 2379
- Joined: Sun. Mar. 25, 2007 8:41 pm
- Location: Ithaca, New York
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4-1 dual fuel boiler
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: former switzer CWW100-sold
- Coal Size/Type: rice
- Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused
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Creative is one thing, sane is another; coal burning and shortcuts in chimney work
are a no no.
A building permit is a must do item. I guess you have to examine more issues and comparing the cost of a one car garage big enough to store some coal and have room to service the boiler.
You could also move the oil burning unit out there along with your hot water heater insulate the garage and its foundation and add insulation, and fire resistant sheet rock in the ceiling and walls if you do that this will and reduce the cost of your fire insurance too.
The install/build would be faster as complete garages can be delivered on flat beds and unloaded in one piece nowadays. The garage slab and chimney foundation can be dug in the same day and the floor poured the next day if you have a good builder you can trust to install the foundation for the garage/shed and chimney.
Unless you have a big Bilco door with a low sloping set of stairs into the basement or a walk in basement with french doors I would also look at this as an option.
Something tells me your original boiler was oversized for your radiation and does not have a bypass loop to save fuel.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------batmangoalie77 wrote:A refurbished unit is what the dealer is trying to get me to do. I'm not against it.
At this point it's the chimney that's getting to be a pain. The mason can build the chimney, but won't cut the roof overhang, so that's ANOTHER separate bill with a different guy doing work they said I need to get building permits for. Is this particular for the course?
Many people have said the efm unit is best, but if they're is another good unit that would allow me to get creative with the chimney, I'm all ears.
House is 2500 sqft. Current boiler is 155000 but and is sufficient.
I do have a chimney sweep company coming to evaluate for metalbestos chimney next week.
Creative is one thing, sane is another; coal burning and shortcuts in chimney work
are a no no.
A building permit is a must do item. I guess you have to examine more issues and comparing the cost of a one car garage big enough to store some coal and have room to service the boiler.
You could also move the oil burning unit out there along with your hot water heater insulate the garage and its foundation and add insulation, and fire resistant sheet rock in the ceiling and walls if you do that this will and reduce the cost of your fire insurance too.
The install/build would be faster as complete garages can be delivered on flat beds and unloaded in one piece nowadays. The garage slab and chimney foundation can be dug in the same day and the floor poured the next day if you have a good builder you can trust to install the foundation for the garage/shed and chimney.
Unless you have a big Bilco door with a low sloping set of stairs into the basement or a walk in basement with french doors I would also look at this as an option.
Something tells me your original boiler was oversized for your radiation and does not have a bypass loop to save fuel.
- Rob R.
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 18004
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
- Location: Chazy, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr
I assume you are considering heating with coal to save money, not just because you like it or need to spend some $.
I have three simple questions.
1. How much heating oil does the house burn in an average winter?
2. What is your budget for the project?
3. How long do you plan on owning the home?
I have three simple questions.
1. How much heating oil does the house burn in an average winter?
2. What is your budget for the project?
3. How long do you plan on owning the home?
- McGiever
- Member
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- Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
X2. What Rob R said.
I'm having a hard time thinking a "remote" located boiler is much any savings over doing the masonry chimney.
Are you replacing the existing metal with masonry only? Or will there be 2 flues in new masonry?
I'm having a hard time thinking a "remote" located boiler is much any savings over doing the masonry chimney.
Are you replacing the existing metal with masonry only? Or will there be 2 flues in new masonry?
- windyhill4.2
- Member
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- Joined: Fri. Nov. 22, 2013 2:17 pm
- Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
- Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both
x3 what Rob said,& I agree with McGiever. IF you have the room in an existing building for the coal boiler,a new masonry chimney will likely cost less than a remote location with all the excavation,trenching for burying the pex,buying the pex,a shed or truck box, a chimney ,add in some lost efficiency for the remote location install & the new masonry chimney starts looking cheap $$ wise.