Nice!!..Love your fireplace too!kenny007 wrote:Hello,
Here is my newly referbished statford sc75, Nice and hot fire ....
Pictures of Your Stove
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- Member
- Posts: 208
- Joined: Sat. Jan. 31, 2009 12:29 pm
- Location: Western MA
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Channing III
- Other Heating: Gas FA
I'm a bit slow posting this...It's been a busy period for me. But here's my now 6-week old Channing III...
The heat vent off to the left is connected to the hot-air side of my gas furnace, which has been off since I installed the stove. Also visible is my combustion air pipe running along and down the back wall.
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Almost forgot...sometime this summer, it's going to get a 'jacket' to collect warm air from the 600+ degree sides (when set on 4!) and run that up to the hot air up, too. The pictures BKSAUN posted of his stove convinced me!
The heat vent off to the left is connected to the hot-air side of my gas furnace, which has been off since I installed the stove. Also visible is my combustion air pipe running along and down the back wall.
.....
Almost forgot...sometime this summer, it's going to get a 'jacket' to collect warm air from the 600+ degree sides (when set on 4!) and run that up to the hot air up, too. The pictures BKSAUN posted of his stove convinced me!
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- Member
- Posts: 23
- Joined: Thu. Mar. 05, 2009 7:25 pm
- Location: Maple Shade NJ(near philly)
Wood for now, shopping for a coal stove!
Hey Coham, do you have any specs on that Lil thang? It almost looks like a kitchen waste basket. I am wondering if it would be good for my little barn. Whats the BTU rating on it? Cost?coham wrote:I just received my Lil hydronic coal furnace. I've dubbed it R2-D2. So begins the great coal stove adventure.
Thanks
It's about 14x 22 inches. The fellow I bought it from said it produced enogh heat for showers and to heat his house via underfloor hydronic heating. He has unfinished unit for 299.00 plus 75.00 for shipping or finished units for 499.00 including shipping. if you go to e-bay and type in Bucket A Day coal stove it should come up.
Thanks for the update. How do you plan on mounting the stove because it doesn't have an ash pan or a stove bottom floor? It's all open. Is it possible to mount it to a sheet metal box? I don't see any holes for mounting on the base. How do you plan on circulating the water. I wanted to use it for my domestic hot water and don't have a boiler to separate the water from mixing. The stove is cast iron and I don't think it would be a good idea to send it straight into the hot water tank. Any ideas? Thanks.
I work construction so I figured I'd hit the pipe fitters up for some twelve inch pipe to extend the bottom of the stove. Maybe an old accumulator. I see them on jobs all the time. Weld up some angle iron to raise it up a bit with enough room under it for a small galvinized trash can. Presto, easy ash removal. The pictures he has shows it right on the cement. The drawings that came with it shows horizontal and vertical circulating tanks. My system is gravity fed.
I just received this from the good folks I bought this from.
Hi Charlie, As far as we know, there was never a BTU rating on these stoves. The average temperature rise is 100 degrees in 3 hours on 30 gal of water. An old-timer once told us that if a person had a 1000 gal water tank they could heat their whole house all winter with a bucket a day stove. The only experience I can speak of is if it never got below 40 degrees outside, I would have been able to heat my 2000 square foot house and got all of my domestic hot water all winter using my bucket a day. I also have a friend who is a welder and he took the stove and extended the fire box twice as high and put it on a steel base so it could take a full-size bushel ashcan under it and it would give him a 17 hour burn and last week he told me he only used 200 gal. of oil and 3 ton of coal from Oct. to March in Shenandoah, PA which is a colder temperature than your area. If you have any other questions let us know. thanks, Joyce and John
I'm interested to see your modification. But once again, the threaded in and outlets are directly to the cast iron. Some plumbing codes do not allow cast iron or steel pipes to be used in domestic water service. Only copper, brass, bronze, 316 stainless steel, or plastic for domestic cold or hot water service. How do you propose to separate the stove heat exchanger? I would think some sort of a water to water heat exchanger to prevent mixing the domestic from the stove cast iron exchanger. See what your plumbing buddy's say. I haven't figured out a low cost solution to that problem yet. So that is the main reason I don't own one yet. Thanks
This is strictly for a gravity fed radiant heating system. I conquered the hot water issue with a bosch on demand water heater (with a five hundred tax credit thank you very much) which really put the kabash on the thieving utilities.