Back in March, I posted pics of my then new Alaska Channing III. Since then, I've made a couple of upgrades.
Here's the "Before"
The first upgrade was to replace the Dayton fan used for convection. The big problem was how to get a 6" round duct from my new 405 CFM fan (the blue thing in the picture) to connect to the rectangular connection used by the original fan. Once solved, (with a number of sheet-metal cuts to my hands), it was off to the races . I had to write the directions on the final piece of ductwork so that I, my heirs, or the next homeowner can figure out how to disconnect it!
Then, it was time to construct a side panel jacket for each side, to be fed by 4" ducts. The first picture shows the 2nd fan with it's 6" duct output being split into a pair of 4"s, feeding a pair of modified mail-order duct boots (cut down to width) to feed the jackets
I couldn't find a "gentle" turn right-angle rectangular duct that would fit underneath the stove to feed the two side panel jackets, so I custom-made them...2.25" h x 8" w in a sweeping curve, and pop-riveted them to the duct boots from the fan. Then I made "U" shaped stand-offs using a 2x4 as a bending form for the top, bottom and rear of each side. Then, figure out where the under-stove curved duct hits the bottom "U" channel and cutting it out. Then, I attached the 4" end-duct boots (megaphone shapes) to a full sheet of panning, bent it to fit over the front, and screwed it all to the stove. Here's a close-up of the left front of the stove.
And, finally, the finished project...after about 3 weeks of evenings and about 2 dozen Band-aids!
For an old-geezer that never did any sheet metal work in his life, I think I did OK on my second sheet metal bending project (the first was the outside funnel on the mini-bin, seen on the right of the second picture.
My basement is now only a couple of degrees warmer than the heated area of my cape-cod style house, thanks to the side panel jackets. As an experiment, I cranked up the stove to 3.5, at which point the burning coals --almost-- go off the end of the grate. Previously, the side walls of the stove would be in the 450* range...now, the jacket registers about 150 at the hottest point (top rear), and that heat is now ducted upstairs! It's reduced my coal usage by about 30% over what I was burning this past February! I'm now a happy, and TOASTY, camper!
Now, all I have to do is to re-work the take-offs from the cold air returns. Sucking a large volume of air through the square take-offs makes too much noise coming from my 2 living room cold-air returns...see below
Two lessons learned the hard way during this project:
1. I built the side panel jackets while the stove was running. Avoid leaning over towards to stove to check 'alignment' of ducts, attachments, whatever. I managed to get burned on my bald head trying to 'sight in' something.
2. Have a very generous supply of drill bits to drill into the hardened steel of the stove itself for mounting the jackets. To mount the "U" shape standoffs and the side panels, I drilled 17 holes into the stove on each side. I managed to break twenty three 1/8" drill bits in the process!!! The record was 3 seconds before one snapped! I tried every brand carried by Home Depot, Lowes, and Ace Hardware! The best ones are the Rigid brand! Yea...I kept buying 5-6 at a time, so I made a good number of trips!