Pictures of your stove

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Mon Jan 15, 2007 9:42 am

Automation Direct is a very big player.

That is nice, I was wondering when I'd see a PLC set up on one of these.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

PostBy: Highlander On: Mon Jan 15, 2007 10:43 am

Thanks to all that responded.

The PLC is a Crouzet Millenium 2, the second generation of this line. I work for an electrical distributer and Crouzet is one of our lines. I design and program automation controls systems as a applications engineer.

There are a couple of neat things about this unit. First, it has a built in 4 line baclit LCD that can be used for simple operator interface. It also has the ability to dedicate some of its DC inputs to monitor an analog signal, albeit with only 8 bits of resolution. The relay outputs are fairly substantial handling 8 amps each.

If it has a down side, it would be the programming language. It uses a graphical format with small symbols for all the common functions. You place them on the page and draw lines representing wires inbetween all the inputs and outputs. For small programs its fine, but when they get larger it gets kind of messy, but it wasn't hard to learn, and the simulation mode works well for debugging purposes.

I am familiar with Automation direct, did a lot of work with there 405 series in a previous job, they are good controllers too. This unit was from an engineering evaluaiton kit we had, thats where the row of switches and potentiometer came from.
Highlander
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Harman VF3000 Sold
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Vermont Castings Resolute
Coal Size/Type: Nut
Stove/Furnace Make: Harman
Stove/Furnace Model: VF3000 Stoker Boiler

PostBy: Cap On: Tue Jan 16, 2007 9:13 pm

Hello List--

I posted my old Harman Mark III here last year. But it has since moved on to a new home and I have installed the mighty Harman SF-250 Hand Fired Free Standing stove. This is Harman's largest hand fired unit.

I installed the optional heat accumulator so I could pipe the hot air into the main living area from out of the basement. This was a HUGE improvement over the Mark III & Harman's other smaller hand fired models as they offer no such option.

I installed a 6" 304 TI liner to improve draft. I designed and installed a 304 .75" x .065" stainless steel water coil in order to heat the domestic water tank. There is a Grundfos circulation pump on the coil for improved water heating efficiency.

Lastly, I installed Ashcroft industrial style thermometers in several places. I have a 400-1200F sensing firebox temps ( not very effective as fresh coal on top will lower firebox temp but continue to pump out warm air. But I have seen this temp settle down at a toasty 750F 8hrs into a burn. ).
I have a 50-550F on the stack, 50-300F on the heat accumulator, 0-200F with 12" probe inserted into water tank.

I guess I enjoy *operating* my stove, and warm my home as an after thought? Not really, but it's fun.
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Entire system. Blue tanks are well water tanks. SS lines are for domestic hot water. Large thermometer on wall is firebox, small below it is room temp.
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Hot water tank temps. Thermometer has 12" probe to dip inside of tank.
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Cap
 
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF 250, domestic hot water loop, heat accumulator


PostBy: coaledsweat On: Tue Jan 16, 2007 10:11 pm

That is a very nice install.

I love the big gauges, I could still read them when I forget my glasses. :)
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

PostBy: coalkirk On: Wed Jan 17, 2007 2:07 pm

It was 15 here this morning. Boiler at 140, tempered water to heat exchanger 95, return water from heater exchanger 90, warm house...priceless!
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coalkirk
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Harman VF3000
Coal Size/Type: antrhcite/rice coal

PostBy: LsFarm On: Wed Jan 17, 2007 2:20 pm

Coalkirk, what air temperatures do you get from 90* water in your heat exchanger? KTM rider and I have been bouncing around the ideal of a clothes dryer using a water-to-air heat exhanger. I think we would want at least 120-140* air.

Thanks, Greg L

Cap, I am so jealous of that scrap and waste bin you can scrounge through for all your instruments, piping and valves...

Nice install!!

Greg L
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Wed Jan 17, 2007 2:25 pm

You want about 155F.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

PostBy: LsFarm On: Wed Jan 17, 2007 3:25 pm

Coaledsweat, do you mean 155* for drying clothes?? Wow, that's pretty hot, I lasered my dryer's inside drum and came up with the 120-140* it varied depending on the dryer's settings and if the clothes were dry or not.

Lets see, 155* will probably require 180* water, so maybe we could get by with 120* air temp from 140* water, and just run the dryer longer to get the same amount of drying??

KTM has three kids, and a fairly high electric bill. I'm just currious.

thanks for the input, Greg L
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

PostBy: coalkirk On: Wed Jan 17, 2007 4:06 pm

Greg,

With 95 degree water to my heat exchanger (90 return) the air temp out of the air handler is 81 degrees. I'm heating 3 levels through a well designed duct system (lots of returns) and I keep the circulator fan running constantly. The 81 degrees doesn't sound very warm but it's constant. My return air is at 70 degrees.
I control my house temp mostly by adjusting the tempering valve to the heat exchanger. If I were alittle more savvy with controls, I could put a motorized control on my mixing valve that would connect to a thermostat and make the adjustment automatically.
If it is cold and windy, I have to bump the water temp up accordingly.
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manual 4-way mixing valve. Two circulators running constantly.
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coalkirk
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Harman VF3000
Coal Size/Type: antrhcite/rice coal

PostBy: coaledsweat On: Wed Jan 17, 2007 4:16 pm

When I had steam dryers 155F was about as much as we could squeeze out of a double coil (two coils back to back @110# of steam) you would get about 155F. we run the gas jobs to 450-475F. The drum doesn't catch up to the air temp.
Actually you don't need heat to dry clothes, the reason you heat the air is hot air will hold more water and it shortens the drying time. The steam dryers would do a load in about 20-25 minutes, the gas is done in 5-7 minutes.

EDIT: Oops, sorry it's been 10 years since I've had a steam dryer here. The #155 is the rise over ambient temperature. In other words if the room air is 70F, the first coil would bring the air up to 170F or so and the second would add another 50F to total about 210F.
coaledsweat
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

PostBy: Berlin On: Thu Jan 18, 2007 3:52 am

my stove paint looks crappy from the flash, it is pretty basic, but looks a bit better in person. these pics were taken soon after a reload with fresh coal.
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Berlin
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Will-Burt Combustioneer 77B
Coal Size/Type: Ohio BITUMINOUS pea stoker coal

PostBy: Mound City On: Thu Jan 18, 2007 4:28 am

Hi Berlin,

That's a fantastic looking bitum burning stove! Thanks for posting the pics as I can now visualize how your stove should look when it's built.

Did you load the coal through the top door or front?
Mound City
 
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Home Made
Coal Size/Type: Bituminous Stoker Coal

PostBy: Berlin On: Thu Jan 18, 2007 5:58 am

front door is just for viewing the fire through the glass, i load through the top only. you may want to use something other than rebar for the handles and/or cover the ends with wood to improve the looks a bit, i just haven't got around to it on mine. btw, thanks, you'll have to get one built :)
Berlin
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Will-Burt Combustioneer 77B
Coal Size/Type: Ohio BITUMINOUS pea stoker coal

New House Stove Pics

PostBy: WNY On: Thu Feb 01, 2007 9:11 am

Finally I got the stove hooked up and running in our old victorian house and finally got some pics...

I tied into the furnance as shown by the insulated pipe and it is maintaining a min. temp in the living room.

I have done everything I can to get the heat out, but loosing too much into the basement, going to put a bigger blower inline on it and see if it work better.

I put in digital temp probes into the plenum and exhaust.
Temp. Probes http://www.coleparmer.com/Product/Panel ... W-90205-26

The sides of the stove are 450-500 at full throttle.

(TOP) Exhaust is a bit high at 200+, I think I need a baro damper, I can open the ash door and the temp drops significantly....

(BOTTOM) The heat coming out to the living is around 130-140.

Also, the basement was a cool 48-52 Degrees and now in/around the stove is 60-62....just need to fill all the cracks and keep the cold air out! Gotta luv old houses.

Still tweeking, but running and keeping the chill off and the other furnance has not come on. :) It's been really cold 5-10 at night. !!

I do have sheet metal heat shield above the exhaust pipe , since there is a beam there and the clearance is tight and around the post behind it

So far, so good. At least until I get a bigger unit (soon!).

(The larger pipe is the cold air return for the other furnance. It has no blower, just convection)
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WNY
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker, LL & CoalTrol
Stove/Furnace Model: 90K, Hyfire I, VF3000 Soon

PostBy: JerseyCoal On: Thu Feb 01, 2007 11:57 pm

Hi WNY:

I noticed in your pics that the ceiling of your basement is insulated with fiberglass bats. What about removing the insulation so that whatever heat is "lost" in the basement rises up to heat the floor above it. It would certainly make the space above the basement more comfortable. It might be worthwhile to seal up the basement to avoid air/heat leakage to the outside. Just a thought. Good luck.

John
JerseyCoal
 
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Franco Belge model 10.1475