D.I.Y Castable Refractory Cement

First and foremost I want to hear from ALL members on this subject.

With the amount of talented, smart, creative, and plain ole' d.i.y.er's like myself on the forum I would like to start a discussion on this topic.

There are some recipes out there from as simple as furnace cement and perlite to some with 4 or 5 different ingredients including fire clay and water glass.

Has anyone attempted this and your results?

Would anyone care to attempt this?...I know I do and plan on it this season but first I would like to hear from any and all.

Mike

Wilson has done, and is still doing, quite a bit of this DIY castable refractory cement experimenting and use. And, he has a large collection of antique firebrick molds that he's used.

Hopefully he will chime in.

Paul

Nice! great timing for me...thanks Mike!

Sunny Boy wrote:Wilson has done, and is still doing, quite a bit of this DIY castable refractory cement experimenting and use. And, he has a large collection of antique firebrick molds that he's used.

Hopefully he will chime in.

Paul

Excellent, can't wait to hear what Skip has to say.

I realize 1 stove can be done dependent on the size for approx 50.00 dollars of the brands available but I've noticed shipping costs are almost 50% of the price of the product.

Ky Speedracer wrote:Nice! great timing for me...thanks Mike!

It's what happens here that inspires and I have a feeling we will get some good advise.

More in some instances.

The 25 pound bucket of Rutland #601 castable I used, ordered directly from Rutland, was about $58.00 with shipping to here in CNY. Before shipping it's about $38.00.

Paul

I have not used the cast-able refractory. I have always used the hammered in kind...so far they have held up well. I did not have original bricks to make molds out of so I went this route.

Randy

I want to pour a mix for my Stewart that is listed on the "refractory thread" and on my Stewart thread. Skip says I'm complicating this though and although it looks like using a sonotube mould would be easy there must be more to it than that. So when the time comes I'll listen to the master.

Although that pourable crucible lining mix sure seems like it could take the heat But I've learned that once the lining has initially cured I'd have to bring it to a pottery shop for a three stage firing, for a full cure

scalabro wrote:I want to pour a mix for my Stewart that is listed on the "refractory thread" and on my Stewart thread. Skip says I'm complicating this though and although it looks like using a sonotube mould would be easy there must be more to it than that. So when the time comes I'll listen to the master.

Although that pourable crucible lining mix sure seems like it could take the heat But I've learned that once the lining has initially cured I'd have to bring it to a pottery shop for a three stage firing, for a full cure

After talking to you about the sonotube I have also considered that route with a 12 inch o.d. round, straight up fire pot.

I would give the section of sonotube many thin coats of urethane i.e. sanding sealer, or any varnish hanging around the shop.

As a form I just used a sheet of 26 gauge sheet metal which is easily formed into the desired circle. Overlap the ends and secure with a few short sheet metal screws, head inside for easy removal. Two pieces for the bottom, again for easy removal.

This was back in 1983 or so in an old potbelly. Pot was tapered so was harder to do but cylinder should be easy. Oil the metal.

franco b wrote:As a form I just used a sheet of 26 gauge sheet metal which is easily formed into the desired circle. Overlap the ends and secure with a few short sheet metal screws, head inside for easy removal. Two pieces for the bottom, again for easy removal.

This was back in 1983 or so in an old potbelly. Pot was tapered so was harder to do but cylinder should be easy. Oil the metal.

Thanks for the sheet metal idea, my thought is to make the top and bottom of the mold from wood, and using my laminate trimmer with a circle gauge and straight bit to make the exact inside radius groove and slide the sheet metal in...very similar to D. Crane's 44 fire brick mold. The top and bottom of the mold will have an additional 1 inch radius for exact fill and fit and the 2 sides will be removable...I'm considering cutting pieces of silicone from inexpensive silicone baking pans and lining the mold for easy removal of the bricks.

Just remember you need room at the top to fill it and at the bottom the wood may be too thick and maybe too hard to get out. You are only going to use it once so don't get too elaborate.

franco b wrote:Just remember you need room at the top to fill it and at the bottom the wood may be too thick and maybe too hard to get out. You are only going to use it once so don't get too elaborate.

I used 1/8" wood that is used on top of sub flooring before tiling (Muralite???). When I used charcoal to cure the lining it just burnt that wood right up. That curing fire would do the same for the sonotube as it is just cardboard. No need to get too elaborate as Franco said.

Randy

Photog200 wrote:I have not used the cast-able refractory. I have always used the hammered in kind...so far they have held up well. I did not have original bricks to make molds out of so I went this route.

Randy, What brand was that refractory did you use? I've not lined a fire pot before so no experience here.
I have seen something called SUPER HYBOND PLUS. I don't know anything about it other than someone indicated you could essentially cut and mold fire bricks to line your fire pot with. I noticed yours is solid. Has that worked well for you? I guess if it cracks it wouldn't hurt anything huh?

Thanks...Steve

Ky Speedracer wrote:

Photog200 wrote:I have not used the cast-able refractory. I have always used the hammered in kind...so far they have held up well. I did not have original bricks to make molds out of so I went this route.

Randy, What brand was that refractory did you use? I've not lined a fire pot before so no experience here.
I have seen something called SUPER HYBOND PLUS. I don't know anything about it other than someone indicated you could essentially cut and mold fire bricks to line your fire pot with. I noticed yours is solid. Has that worked well for you? I guess if it cracks it wouldn't hurt anything huh?

Thanks...Steve

Plibrico "Super Air-Bond F. It is very similar to Noxoram (sp) that others on here have used. It has the consistency of a stiff clay with particles in it. You can roll it out to the thickness you want and put it in a section at a time. Or you can do as I did with mine, I grabbed a chunk of it and tapped it into place using a rubber mallet. Keep doing that until you build up the thickness you want. Then I used a wet sponge with a scotchbrite pad on it and got it as smooth as I could get it. I have done this process on two stoves so far and neither of them have cracked. I will be using the same stuff on the new restoration I am doing too. I am able to get this stuff only 30 miles away so I don't have to pay the shipping. It comes in a 50# box so it would cost quite a bit to ship.

Randy

How thin do you think you can you roll it out so its still effective? 1 inch? Maybe 3/4 of an inch?
The reason I ask is that I have a crack in a Florence Hot Blast fire pot. I would like to keep it as thin as possible so it will be able to super heat the secondary air...