UMCO No. 28

joeq wrote:Welcome to the black rock club. These guys will have you hooked up in no time. Cute little stove. What are your plans for it?

Was going to have it in my little house as suppimentel heating, but I've sense discovered that violates my lease

So now it's going in my shed, which my landlord doesn't care about. It'll be a nice little heater while I'm working on winter projects.

If you do woodworking in your workshop, it'll be convenient for getting rid of your wood scraps. Like to see some pix of it up and running. Now I guess you'll need to find some chimney pipe?

gafferproject wrote:

joeq wrote:Welcome to the black rock club. These guys will have you hooked up in no time. Cute little stove. What are your plans for it?

Was going to have it in my little house as suppimentel heating, but I've sense discovered that violates my lease

So now it's going in my shed, which my landlord doesn't care about. It'll be a nice little heater while I'm working on winter projects.

More motivation to move to Richmond and possibly buy? .

joeq wrote:If you do woodworking in your workshop, it'll be convenient for getting rid of your wood scraps. Like to see some pix of it up and running. Now I guess you'll need to find some chimney pipe?

Yeah I tried True Value and Lowes but everywhere only has 6" and 8" piping. I managed to order some 4" piping off interweb.
Just waiting for everything to show up in the mail

Smokeyja wrote:
More motivation to move to Richmond and possibly buy? .

It just up to the wife, I'm down to move out there. I'd love that.

Question regarding these sort of trays that I see on some of the Umco No. 28 stoves I see advertised.
When I take the lid off of my Umco No 28, it looks like this.... nothing underneath the lid (photo of someone else's stove)
I have seen other stoves that have been converted to lamp stands, like this Umco 28.
Looks like on some of those lampstand conversions involve drilling a hole for the cord. sad
Below you can see the same stove that has the hole drilled, it has a wood insert in the top of the exhaust port, and some sort of tray underneath where the lid sits.
My stove does not have this tray. Is it some retrofit for the lampstand conversion? Perhaps the tray functions as a smoker's ash tray?

As old as these things are, God only knows what people do with them. Your idea of an ashtray seems logical. Are you gunna fix it up, and use it for heat?

joeq wrote: ↑

Fri. Nov. 13, 2020 5:08 pm

As old as these things are, God only knows what people do with them. Your idea of an ashtray seems logical. Are you gunna fix it up, and use it for heat?

Yes, or at least I am now. It is mostly just a toy, we have other heat sources.
At present it is sitting in the basement fireplace waiting for me to get the stove pipe lifted in place and rockwool insulation to seal off the pipe at the bottom tile. Probably won't happen until after Thanksgiving.
Since the grate is planar, I used it to as an excuse to mess with a CAD program I have been curious about trying.
I sent the STL file off to two online vendors, one was outrageously priced, the other reasonable but kept discussing it in inches and the measurements I used for the model were millimeter. I realize if he cuts it out it should be fine, but for the cost I think I would rather take the STL file to the county library's maker space and sit there while their CNC cuts it out. Besides there is still more excising to do after the CNC router does its job, might as well see it through the whole process. It would have been quicker to manually cut a piece of wood down, but then I would not have had the CAD experience.

Rather than building a new one, are there any members here that might have one in their parts bins?
Wilsons Woodstoves, or Emery, or one of the other stove people? Have you put the word out? Not sure how rare the stove is.
(your CAD came out nice. Don't know why the metric tho)

joeq wrote: ↑

Mon. Nov. 16, 2020 6:03 pm

Rather than building a new one, are there any members here that might have one in their parts bins?
Wilsons Woodstoves, or Emery, or one of the other stove people? Have you put the word out? Not sure how rare the stove is.
(your CAD came out nice. Don't know why the metric tho)

Thank you for the suggestions and the comment on the CAD model.
The slide rule I was using was easier to measure with metric.

The UMCO 28 stove I got came with a good grate.
It would be nice to have a spare grate, which gives me an excuse to practice pattern making.

The first pattern I started was of a footrest for a different stove, it had way too many curves for my lack of experience. That is on hold for now. I got this UMCO 28 for a good price, and being a smaller stove figure it would be a better option to practice pattern making for.
When I move the grate in the stove, it does not fit well so it does not have the full range within the slide the handle end sets in.
On the stove body, it looks like the casting spilled out some maybe, and grate's rotation gets stopped by it.
I have seen photos of one other UMCO 28 with the same spot, so maybe it is common to the stove model and not just mine.
Anyway, thats why in my CAD model the two sides of the circle are cut linear, so when the grate will be rotated back and forth they won't get stopped against the stove body. Thats the idea anyway.

Would you like another one for free ?

tsb wrote: ↑

Tue. Nov. 17, 2020 8:54 am

Would you like another one for free ?

Yes I would!
I will PM you.

CoalPail members are the best.

Did this stove model have a dedicated shaker handle?

The handle of the grate is rounded over on the top two edges for releasing the grate pattern out of the sand.
I have tried using pliers without success. Going to try locking pliers once I remember where I put the two I have.
Have been thinking of cutting a washer to key to the end of the grate handle then weld a rod to the washer, sort of like this tool I saw on Woodman's parts

Anyone have better ideas?

What do people normally do when they don't have a shaker handle (for whatever stove model)?

thanks

After trying a few things, I think a standard depth 10mm 6-point socket works well, along with either an L bar extension or miniature breaker bar.