Warm Morning Installation

Christine · Post by **Christine** » Thu. Oct. 22, 2015 9:37 pm

Yes, I have a couple of fans to move it. I am mounting a smaller fan in the hall area to move heat back to the rear of the house.
I wish it could hook into duct work...but that is ok.
Now...to find the pipe. LOL
My walls are birchwood. What they call a "Birchwood beauty" mobile home. Not very thick.
I was going to put spacers and then HB board along the two walls. It is going in kaddy korner.
I have to use spacers due to the birchwood.

Christine · Post by **Christine** » Thu. Oct. 22, 2015 9:40 pm

You ALL are amazing!!!
Seriously.
How do I seal it? LOL
I do have paint for it, although, I hate the black. Would love to find some cool color of enamel paint, but alas, I have what I have.

Christine · Post by **Christine** » Thu. Oct. 22, 2015 9:46 pm

Smokeyja wrote:Christine , now that we know your in PA a lot of guys on the forum are from the area so they will know exactly the requirements for a stove installations in the area .

The 617 is just like my 414 but larger . Do you see the base ?
There is a lot of airspace under there so although it is safer to give the stove a lot of floor space it's not necessary as you can see in the photo of my stove I posted . That bottom doesn't not get hot . Because it is tall and skinny you can put this in a small space and it was a good choice . I think if you could put down some hardy board or stove board and then bricks you won't have an issue . Just make sure you have good clearances and insulation near the sides as that is where the heat really comes from , the sides and the top. Make sure to go through the stove and seal it the best you can.

Thank you so much!!! I LOVE all the help here!! I am much more at ease with installing this now!

windyhill4.2 · Post by **windyhill4.2** » Thu. Oct. 22, 2015 9:58 pm

Stove to combustible... 36".... with 3.5" masonry panel,no air gap=24" OR,3.5 masonry panel with 1" air gap =12",24 gauge sheet metal with 1" air gap =12",1/2" non-combustible insulation board with 1" air gap=12".......all the 12" examples are with a 1" VENTILATED air gap.Floor covering = protection outward of all sides of the stove at 18",stoves with legs less than 2" high must be on non-combustible floor,legs 2-6" require 4" hollow masonry laid to provide air circulation & covered with 24 gauge sheet metal, legs longer than 6" require closely spaced masonry of 2" min.& covered with 24 gauge sheet metal.These are requirements if & when the OEM specs are unknown/unavailable.

Smokeyja · Post by **Smokeyja** » Thu. Oct. 22, 2015 9:59 pm

Christine wrote:You ALL are amazing!!!
Seriously.
How do I seal it? LOL
I do have paint for it, although, I hate the black. Would love to find some cool color of enamel paint, but alas, I have what I have.

Although it would be cool to do another color , you may find it easier to maintain while painted black . The paint eventually sort of burns off and rust spots will show up so to keep it nice and fresh you would use stove polish . So first wire brush it down down real good and then give it a few coats of high temp black paint . Tip , if you paint it glossy or semi gloss the gloss goes away after the frat burn so don't be too worried about that . Some of the guys on here have their good findings of certain paints and I think one is called thermolux? I used "stove bright" brand to paint mine . When you want to bring shine or bring back the stove to being black in between burns then you will want to use stove polish such as Rutlands, meeco, or Williams . The Rutlands works ok and that's all I have ever tried but a lot like Williams or meeco and o just ordered some from Amazon o try out . Local hardware shops should carry some Rutlands stuff .

When you are filling gaps or sealing the stove you will use stove cement . Order Hercules off amazon . It's good stuff . Don't bother with Rutlands .

When you get into it farther we will be here to help.

Post by **franco b** » Thu. Oct. 22, 2015 10:00 pm

Christine wrote:How do I seal it?

The bottom door is the area of concern. It should be a good machined metal to metal seal. The upper door is not a concern.

Smokeyja · Post by **Smokeyja** » Thu. Oct. 22, 2015 10:08 pm

franco b wrote:
Christine wrote:How do I seal it?
The bottom door is the area of concern. It should be a good machined metal to metal seal. The upper door is not a concern.

That upper door needs to seal as well especially if she decides to run wood or bit coal in it , at least until the volatiles burn off . I ended up cementing rope gasket in mine and it worked a lot better to keep out any unwanted secondary air . The bottom door should be fine as is like you stated it is machined .

I would just take some fine sand paper and clean those areas where the machines surfaces meet .

Also a neat thing about these stoves is the back flue collar . You can mount it to exit up top or out the back . If you take apart any parts put stove cement in the joints and put it back together and that's how you will seal the stove . Sometimes you will see where rope gasket has been or should be used . Usually there is a cast cavity to allow for the gasket to be pushed in . But I don't there there was any originally in this stove . But like I mentioned before I ended up using some on the upper door .

Christine · Post by **Christine** » Thu. Oct. 22, 2015 11:24 pm

windyhill4.2 wrote:Stove to combustible... 36".... with 3.5" masonry panel,no air gap=24" OR,3.5 masonry panel with 1" air gap =12",24 gauge sheet metal with 1" air gap =12",1/2" non-combustible insulation board with 1" air gap=12".......all the 12" examples are with a 1" VENTILATED air gap.Floor covering = protection outward of all sides of the stove at 18",stoves with legs less than 2" high must be on non-combustible floor,legs 2-6" require 4" hollow masonry laid to provide air circulation & covered with 24 gauge sheet metal, legs longer than 6" require closely spaced masonry of 2" min.& covered with 24 gauge sheet metal.These are requirements if & when the OEM specs are unknown/unavailable.

Okay, I'm a little freaked out right now. Ha.
My space is only 8' wide. If I go a yard out from the wall, it is going to be in the middle of my floor.
I read the manuals there and it said at least a yard from the wall. Does that ( or can that) change with more modern materials that are available?
Is that what this post means? The thicker the material, the closer I can get to the wall?
Also, do I have to have a barometric or can I go without it?

Christine · Post by **Christine** » Thu. Oct. 22, 2015 11:25 pm

franco b wrote:In general a stove in a mobile home should have a dedicated fresh air intake for the stove. Withou that a window should be partly open all the time because a mobile home is tighter than a house and the stove needs air.

Here are two Warm Morning manuals.

Awesome!!!! Thanks so much!

Christine · Post by **Christine** » Thu. Oct. 22, 2015 11:26 pm

KingCoal wrote:
Christine wrote:Well, she was wrong, I just got more pics and of course, you are right on the model of the first one ( the one I was going to get already).
that stove, WM 617A, is in very good internal shape. the exterior could be dealt with when you have time.

if you can make a comfortable deal on it it will make a fine stove for you.

will there be a way to move air around the stove and the living space ?

steve

Fans. LOL

Smokeyja · Post by **Smokeyja** » Thu. Oct. 22, 2015 11:52 pm

Christine wrote:
windyhill4.2 wrote:Stove to combustible... 36".... with 3.5" masonry panel,no air gap=24" OR,3.5 masonry panel with 1" air gap =12",24 gauge sheet metal with 1" air gap =12",1/2" non-combustible insulation board with 1" air gap=12".......all the 12" examples are with a 1" VENTILATED air gap.Floor covering = protection outward of all sides of the stove at 18",stoves with legs less than 2" high must be on non-combustible floor,legs 2-6" require 4" hollow masonry laid to provide air circulation & covered with 24 gauge sheet metal, legs longer than 6" require closely spaced masonry of 2" min.& covered with 24 gauge sheet metal.These are requirements if & when the OEM specs are unknown/unavailable.
Okay, I'm a little freaked out right now. Ha.
My space is only 8' wide. If I go a yard out from the wall, it is going to be in the middle of my floor.
I read the manuals there and it said at least a yard from the wall. Does that ( or can that) change with more modern materials that are available?
Is that what this post means? The thicker the material, the closer I can get to the wall?
Also, do I have to have a barometric or can I go without it?

That 36" is if you didn't do anything to those walls as in 36" from "combustibles " ie. Your wood paneling . If you use one of the other masonry panels with at least a 1" air gap you can go to 12" . These numbers aren't set in stone either they are "safety guidelines" . You can use your common sense to bend the measurements a bit . So don't freak out just yet on us . Knowing how these stoves operate I don't think you need a minimum of 18" floor covering . I think you can go smaller in front of the stove if need be depending on what type of flooring you have . Like I said before these stoves don't run hot at all on the bottom . They were designed that way . Go back and look at the photo of mine I posted . Does that look like 18" from the hardwood floor in the front ? That floor never got hot . You see in order to write safety guidelines you need to make them for all people . Not all folks have good common sense so you need to make variables that will keep those people out of trouble .

No you do not need a barometric damper to run this stove . You can use a manual damper and it works very well with this stove . You can run a Baro but it's not needed . And I am going to state that that is my educated opinion based on real world experience . Others have their own opinions . If you would like to read up about it and form your own here : Manual Pipe Dampers .. How, Why, When

I have never felt I needed one or had any safety concern to use one in my warm morning .

That masonry board they said "hardy board or hardie board" is some good stuff with a air gap and you can even add some tile to it or half bricks and so on! Or even stone. It's great stuff .

All of this is only my opinion . I am not saying you "should" deviate from standard installation measurements but I am saying to use your best judgement .

Post by **Lightning** » Fri. Oct. 23, 2015 9:10 am

Does that stove have any kind of thermostatic control? If it only has manual combustion air controls , a barometric damper will make for a steadier heat output, assuming you plan to burn anthracite.

Smokeyja · Post by **Smokeyja** » Fri. Oct. 23, 2015 9:34 am

Lightning wrote:Does that stove have any kind of thermostatic control? If it only has manual combustion air controls , a barometric damper will make for a steadier heat output, assuming you plan to burn anthracite.

That stove is 100% manual Lee. Warm morning suggest a Baro but it is not necessary as I didn't have room to put one in and only use a MPD and had no issues controlling the burn even in harsh weather. But If she has room then it might be a good thing to try considering WM does recommend it.

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Fri. Oct. 23, 2015 10:19 am

Wrong thread, sorry.

Paul

Christine · Post by **Christine** » Fri. Oct. 23, 2015 10:51 am

Thanks Smokey! I again breathe a sigh of relief.

You guys sure know your stuff. My Dad stopped by last night and was asking me about the coal stove.
( He has a large stove and got me turned onto coal)
I told him about this forum and showed it to him, as he has no puter, and he was really impressed!