The old pre-epa stoves will burn it, and some coal stoves. I can burn green or wet but not both, as long as its oak, hackberry, cherry, etc. Soft wood is tougher. It takes a lot more wood to do it though. My un-scientific comparison was 9 loads cured to 13 green. Im not going to recommend it too much though, but it was out of need, I needed heat.ddahlgren wrote:Don't forget the wood does not start seasoning by any useful amount until split. I haven't had much luck burning wood in a wood stove under 1 1/2 years after split. If you mix in some bio bricks or scrap lumber it will help a bunch.
Manometer and Wood Burning.
- warminmn
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- HarMark3500
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With this device, aything measuring 20% or less moisture content burns great. Most of the wood is split. There are some small logs 4-5 inch diameter that are not. Everything measured in this range catches within 30 seconds to a miute.
- hotblast1357
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i have found with these types of gauges, that if you stick it in the end of the split it will read say 18%, but then if you split that split and measure in the middle it is still moist at around 30-40 %, so just cause the ends of your pieces of wood are "dry" doesnt always mean the whole piece is.
- Sunny Boy
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Wood always dries faster at end grain.
There's two types of water in wood - "free" and "bound" water.
Think of wood cells as a bundle of drinking straws. The free water is that water that moves through the straws to other parts of the tree. The bound water is water trapped inside the cell walls.
The free water dries quickly, mostly be leaving through the end grain. The bound water takes longer to come out of the cell walls.
So, because water moves more easily and faster with the grain, through the cells, and moves much slower cross grain through the cell walls, the water content in wood will always be less at the end grain.
Therefore, to get more realistic readings, moisture meters are used on side grain with the probes inserted as deeply as possible into the wood, not the bark. If used near end grain, the meter will result in false moisture content readings.
Paul
There's two types of water in wood - "free" and "bound" water.
Think of wood cells as a bundle of drinking straws. The free water is that water that moves through the straws to other parts of the tree. The bound water is water trapped inside the cell walls.
The free water dries quickly, mostly be leaving through the end grain. The bound water takes longer to come out of the cell walls.
So, because water moves more easily and faster with the grain, through the cells, and moves much slower cross grain through the cell walls, the water content in wood will always be less at the end grain.
Therefore, to get more realistic readings, moisture meters are used on side grain with the probes inserted as deeply as possible into the wood, not the bark. If used near end grain, the meter will result in false moisture content readings.
Paul
- HarMark3500
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That is correct. Always measure the ceter after the wood is split.
- Smokeyja
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I'm burning maple right now from a tree that was taken down in July. Magnehelic is at .04 in base heater mode (indirect draft) . Slow and steady burn . The wood burns great! I've never had a hard time burning green or seasoned wood and to be honest green gives a longer burn through the night . My favorite to burn is hickory but I'm not picky . I will however only burn hardwood in the stove though.