EFM Stocker Motor Thermal Reset Kicking Off Happened Three

 
army5102
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Post by army5102 » Sat. Mar. 22, 2008 12:33 pm

Thermal reset button keeps kicking off on my EFM coal stocker motor what could be the problem
I just recently oiled it could I have oiled it too much?????


 
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stoker-man
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Hand Fed Coal Boiler: 1981 efm wcb-24 in use 365 days a year
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Other Heating: Hearthstone wood stove

Post by stoker-man » Sat. Mar. 22, 2008 2:43 pm

It is possible to over oil a motor. If the problem started after oiling the motor, I think you know what happened.

There are other causes, such as a high content of dust in the coal, especially wet coal. Did you just get a coal delivery? Use the crank to turn the worm by hand. Is there any strong resistance to turning?

Did you install new coal pipes recently? Is the feed worm more than 3-4 inches inside the coal bin? Is this a sudden problem? Is the dust cover installed on the motor?

Does the worm have any sharp edges? Scrape out the coal and look into the bottom of the pot. Is the voltage to the motor close to 120V?

It could also be a motor going bad.

 
army5102
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Post by army5102 » Sat. Mar. 22, 2008 3:28 pm

No I did not get a recent delivery of coal
I didnt have this problem at all this winter till recently
On occasion it did happen to me last summer when I was running it for hot water only

     
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    Post by stoker-man » Sat. Mar. 22, 2008 5:53 pm

    Try turning the auger by hand. Have you been oiling the housing of the gear drive assembly and connecting rod? 3 oil ports in all. How old is the motor?

     
    army5102
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    Post by army5102 » Mon. Mar. 24, 2008 10:14 am

    Where are the three ports for the gear drive assembly on the efm 520 stocker ??
    The motor is approx 24years old

     
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    Post by Matthaus » Mon. Mar. 24, 2008 10:44 am

    I would say at 24 years an investment in a spare would be a good bet after you have verified the items suggested by stoker-man. That way you could install the new one and remove the old one for disassembly cleaning and testing to make sure it is good. Your local electric motor rebuilder or supply house should be able to test the old one to see if it is a viable spare unit. Remember units never fail when you don't need them. :)

     
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    Post by stoker-man » Mon. Mar. 24, 2008 11:18 am

    I'll take pictures of the lube holes today and post them later this evening


     
    army5102
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    Post by army5102 » Mon. Mar. 24, 2008 11:21 am

    Thank You I would appreciate that

     
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    Post by stoker-man » Mon. Mar. 24, 2008 5:10 pm

    Here are the 3 oil ports. Two are in the connecting rod and one is in the clutch assembly. Add a drop to each end of the connecting rod, a few times a year and a few drops in the clutch assembly. In the top picture, the oil port is located in the center, to the left of the gear and also on the right bottom side at the top of the connecting rod.

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    oil-port2.jpg
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    army5102
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    Post by army5102 » Mon. Mar. 24, 2008 6:54 pm

    Thanks for the pictures and no I was not oiling the one onthe top of the housing
    I just went down and did it after seeing your pictures Thanks again

     
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    Post by stoker-man » Tue. Mar. 25, 2008 10:33 am

    Also, did you check the oil level in the oil pan and find it to be 3/8" above the bottom of the gear teeth?

     
    army5102
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    Post by army5102 » Tue. Mar. 25, 2008 10:54 am

    Yes I did and its fine
    thanks again for your help also do you think it would be a good idea to get an extra motor

     
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    Post by stoker-man » Tue. Mar. 25, 2008 11:19 am

    yes, your motor owes you nothing. Order a motor from Grainger. It's an AO Smith, Grainger part # 4MAO ??, don't remember the last number, maybe 8 or 10. Be sure to install the dust cover, supplied with it. 1/8 HP.

     
    army5102
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    Post by army5102 » Tue. Mar. 25, 2008 2:51 pm

    Thanks for that info I called Grainger and they have an AOSmith #4MA1O 1/8 hp but He's calling it an oil burner motor
    My local supplier has a 1/8hp marathon motor also calling it an oil burner motor neither one knows of a cover
    Will either of these work???

     
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    Post by stoker-man » Tue. Mar. 25, 2008 3:50 pm

    The 4MA10 will have a cover inside the box.


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