Picked up Used Keystoker.. Now What?

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arcticcatmatt
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Location: Montour Falls NY

Post by arcticcatmatt » Wed. Nov. 11, 2015 9:50 pm

I had an OLD alaska kodiak at my old house. Had a big rebuild thread on here of it yrs ago. The buyers wanted it so Ieft it and my crazy setup lol.. Now that I am in a new house by watkins glen, time to get back at it. House heats with electric and 2 propane fireplaces. The basement had the perfect spot for a coal stove so I found a 4 yr old Keystoker 90/105 (he said this is the 105) 1.5 hrs away and went and picked it up. It has a vent in the top so I can pump hot air upstairs :)

I've never had a coal stove that worked off a thermostat. Hoping just a honeywell digital will work for it. I need to locate a manual for it. I am ordering a manometer now to install on the wall behind it. I also have to get pipe to install it, probably single wall so the hot pipe radiates into the basement. Why do people get double wall?

I will put the thermostat upstairs I think. I have to clean this out. Its totally different than my old alaska. I will clean things out the best I can. The grate(s) don't look too easy to remove?? Here are some pictures. Advice welcome!

I don't want to post what I paid but what do you think its worth? It appears to be mint. I called local dealer and they said $3,100 new. Owner said he was switching to natural gas because its easier and he thinks its the same price as coal. He says this is the 105,000 BTU unit
3/4 of the way down the page http://www.keystoker.com/products.php

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lzaharis
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Location: Ithaca, New York
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4-1 dual fuel boiler
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: former switzer CWW100-sold
Coal Size/Type: rice
Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused

Post by lzaharis » Thu. Nov. 12, 2015 6:05 pm

You may want to rethink putting the thermostat up stairs Matt.
Don't forget that heat rises and well, you know the rest as far as
overheating etc.

 
adayrider
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Post by adayrider » Thu. Nov. 12, 2015 7:59 pm

Why would you not want to say how much you paid? Only reason I can think of is maybe stolen property? Trying to keep the heat off ya? HaHa, get it? Or you paid more than new price and you are embarrassed for over paying?

 
arcticcatmatt
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Post by arcticcatmatt » Thu. Nov. 12, 2015 10:25 pm

Yes I am rethinking it.. I just don't want it to be nice and warm in the basement and have it shut off when upstairs is too cold.
Reason I didn't post price was if I end up selling it.. and I don't like the "you overpaid!" "you got ripped off" bit :) I literally know nothing about this stove.. been looking on here to see if anyone has posted pictures of cleaning it and removing the grate but have not came across much yet. Keystoker told me 87% efficiency today over the phone and that helped me calculate some things. Manometer and fittings to attach to pipe have been ordered.. along with chimney sweep. Debating on how I am going to get the heat upstairs. run one duct along the ceiling and plumb it into 3 rooms or just living room. Wondering how hot the vent will get (laminate floors). Also ordered digital honeywell thermostat


 
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2001Sierra
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Joined: Wed. May. 20, 2009 8:09 am
Location: Wynantskill NY, 10 miles from Albany
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90 Chimney vent
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Other Heating: Buderus Oil Boiler 3115-34

Post by 2001Sierra » Thu. Nov. 12, 2015 11:07 pm

That is definitely a 105. That stove is like owning a horse, put it in one end take it out the other. I too am heating in a similar setup. You will not be disappointed. I sent you a PM to offer more help.

 
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Location: Western PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler

Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Fri. Nov. 13, 2015 8:37 am

arcticcatmatt wrote: Reason I didn't post price was if I end up selling it.. and I don't like the "you overpaid!" "you got ripped off" bit :)
Overpaid for something? Welcome to my boat, grab an oar :P

It sounds like this will be supplemental heat, not primary, right? Do you have existing duct work in your house, or are you looking to add a bit to get it upstairs?

A few things to figure out before you get too far...

First thing that comes to mind is hot air heat REQUIRES an in-duct thermostat with a limit switch.

Second, consider your clearances. Stove pipe to walls and ceiling, edges of stove to walls, and non-flammable hearth for flooring. These are big factors in determining where and how you want to install your new stove.

Chimney...where is it, what kind, size, etc.

Here is a link to my very recent thread that has some discussion and pics and info about clearances (especially thimbles, but stove stuff, too). Remodeling and Tapping Into Chimney- Insulation, Barriers ?

Do you have a spot picked out? Basement?

If installing in a basement, here is an interesting read. It's an excerpt from a larger document.
Basement Heatloss_1MillionBTUsperDay_Excerpt.pdf
.PDF | 178.7KB | Basement Heatloss_1MillionBTUsperDay_Excerpt.pdf
Here's the full thing if you're interested. It is about wood heat, but much of the info pertains to solid fuel stoves and heat in general. (It's big)
Basement Heatloss_1MillionBTUsperDay.pdf
.PDF | 6.5MB | Basement Heatloss_1MillionBTUsperDay.pdf

 
titleist1
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Post by titleist1 » Fri. Nov. 13, 2015 9:20 am

I have our 'stat upstairs with the stoker in the basement and it works fine for us. However our basement is unfinished and the stairway is open so the heat rises up very nicely.

In the workshop I have a stoker with a duct coming off the top and the air coming off it is hot enough to melt the plastic casing on a thermometer as I left it sitting there to measure the temp. You may want to check the temp of the air coming off the duct prior to having it connected to the register on your laminate flooring.
You may want to consider running an outside air pipe to the intake on your combustion fan. I noticed a difference in the stove performance when I did this.

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