Chimney Liner

 
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Freespirit
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Post by Freespirit » Wed. Nov. 18, 2015 12:48 pm

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Chimney and Pipe

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Chimney and Pipe

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Chimney and Pipe

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Fireplace Chimney 005.JPG

Chimney and Pipe

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Fireplace Chimney 005.JPG

Chimney and Pipe

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Fireplace Chimney 005.JPG

Chimney and Pipe

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Fireplace Chimney 005.JPG

Chimney and Pipe

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Chimney and Pipe

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They called yesterday roughly $2000.00 for quote. I do not have a clay liner in my chimney it is a fireplace chimney with a steel liner inside that my coal stove is hooked to. I do not know the condition of the chimney it runs through the middle of the house behind walls. I will not pay $2000.00 for a new liner I can get one for $523.99 complete with everything that is need except for a barometric damper which Alaska highly recommends using with this stove. I have a friend who knows a couple of guys capable of putting the liner in the chimney and putting some mortar where needed. He said they would probably do it for $100.00 a piece which beats the hell out of $2000.00. If I were to not go with a liner how would I hook up my stove to this chimney and not knowing what kind of condition it is in worries me that it could spark a fire I start my coal stove with wood. I took pictures not of the inside of the chimney I am not crawling up on that roof and I have no way of getting up there anyways. But I took the best pictures I could of the outside. Is there any specific barometric meter that I should be looking for? Thank you guys for all your help.
Sincerely,
Freespirit

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windyhill4.2
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Wed. Nov. 18, 2015 1:01 pm

There is no creosote with coal. All you need the chimney for is to vent the gases up to the ozone layer.A brick chimney is fine,as long as their are no missing bricks or chunks of mortar missing the chimney will be safe to use. We even burnt wood in an unlined brick chimney for many yrs without issue. Coal gases will not set the chimney on fire. It is very unlikely that you need any liner in that chimney,as I stated b4 ,a liner is only needed IF there is missing mortar or bricks. Rip the rusted liner out & start heating, BUT, that opinion is based on the info I currently see.Subject to change if chimney condition is worse than we can see with the pic. :) Your chimney looks great on the outside,where it has been in the weather for ???? yrs.The part inside the house is most likely much better shape :)

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Wed. Nov. 18, 2015 1:25 pm

Ditto what WH stated. :) I'm thinkin you already have a plate or something at the smoke shelf where that pipe goes in to the fireplace. Remove old liner & stick some 6" black pipe a couple ft., or as much as possible up the chimney. Insulate where needed at the plate. Hell, your set.

 
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Post by franco b » Wed. Nov. 18, 2015 1:40 pm

Someone has to get up on the roof to remove the old liner. Once that is done you can see mot of the chimney inner sides with a good flashlight or a light lowered down and inspect from above and below.

The bad news it is a fireplace chimney and too large for the stove, unlined, which means harder to maintain draft.

The good news is that it is inside the house so much less of a possible draft problem.

You might check with a local mason supply for a name to possibly inspect or even to install a clay liner.

 
waldo lemieux
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Post by waldo lemieux » Wed. Nov. 18, 2015 2:22 pm

And you'll likely need another $800 in a few short years because the liner rusted out. just sayin.......

 
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Freespirit
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Post by Freespirit » Wed. Nov. 18, 2015 2:32 pm

A liner will rot even if you have a chimney cap on it so the weather cannot get in? I took pictures of the chimney from in the attic this is the original chimney house was built around 1890's this house had a fire because the owner before the last one his son got the fire place cooking and cooked the house. The upper part you see in the other pictures is newer due to the fire.

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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Wed. Nov. 18, 2015 2:51 pm

Freespirit wrote: The chimney sweeps came today and told me they would not put a brush down my liner that it need to be replaced they said that it was all right for now but they would write up a quote for me only $2000.00 to $3000.00
It was awful nice of that chimney sweep fellow to give you the go ahead to be able to use the chimney this season. :roll:
Last edited by McGiever on Wed. Nov. 18, 2015 2:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.


 
waldo lemieux
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Post by waldo lemieux » Wed. Nov. 18, 2015 2:53 pm

Freespirit wrote:A liner will rot even if you have a chimney cap on it so the weather cannot get in?
Boy's, what say you? Gently now if you please........

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Wed. Nov. 18, 2015 2:59 pm

Freespirit wrote:A liner will rot even if you have a chimney cap on it so the weather cannot get in?
Yes
Burning coal releases a certain about of moisture while burning. If it all stayed as a vapor until clear exited of chimney it's not so bad...your center of house chimney is a big plus compared to being an external chimney where moisture can condense inside liner/chimney due to lower chimney wall temps. Insulated liner/chimney is important is this situation as walls will constantly condense at low temps besides not drafting very well being cooler.

 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Wed. Nov. 18, 2015 3:43 pm

Those inside pix look 100% better then SMITTY's--sorry John-- LOL & he's been burnin coal for yrs. w/ no problems. Looks like somebody did some pointin work on the inside chimney.

 
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Freespirit
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Post by Freespirit » Wed. Nov. 18, 2015 4:27 pm

Ok so I start my coal stove with wood and burn my coal in this chimney and you think it will be fine? If so how am I suppose to hook my stove up to the fire place chimney? I also need some advice on a Barometric damper. I have seen some that come in a T and some that you have to put in a T not sure which one would work in my situation with maybe only about 2 1/2 ft of pipe before it goes up most of which is in the fireplace. I have a manual damper in my pipe right now but Alaska said to use a Barometric damper. I do miss my Efel I knew that stove inside and out. At first I cursed at the Alaska but it is like anything else just need to learn. Got up this morning it was cooking, stove temp was 450 degrees. Which is ok I saw where someone on here said they run theirs at 650 sometimes and it is suppose to be capable of 100,000 BTU's Efel was only capable of 55,000 BTU'S. I am amazed so far with this stove not using so much coal as the Efel did. She was a bucket in the morning and a bucket at night and if it was really cold a bucket and a half. I do not think there is much insulation in this house I would be amazed if there was any. I also because of the way the house is set up with mostly tall ceilings the kitchen is a dropped ceiling, I have trouble circulating the air so the kitchen and bathroom and my bedroom are always in the low 60's and sometimes in the 50's while the dining room and living room are in the mid 70's. I have ceiling fans in the living and dining room. Thank you guys you are all truly awesome. Any advise is greatly appreciated.
Sincerely,
Freespirit

 
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Freespirit
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Post by Freespirit » Wed. Nov. 18, 2015 4:30 pm

Freespirit wrote: The chimney sweeps came today and told me they would not put a brush down my liner that it need to be replaced they said that it was all right for now but they would write up a quote for me only $2000.00 to $3000.00
It was awful nice of that chimney sweep fellow to give you the go ahead to be able to use the chimney this season. :roll:[/quoteNot for the whole season said a little while.

 
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Freespirit
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Post by Freespirit » Wed. Nov. 18, 2015 4:35 pm

McGiever wrote:
Freespirit wrote:A liner will rot even if you have a chimney cap on it so the weather cannot get in?
Yes
Burning coal releases a certain about of moisture while burning. If it all stayed as a vapor until clear exited of chimney it's not so bad...your center of house chimney is a big plus compared to being an external chimney where moisture can condense inside liner/chimney due to lower chimney wall temps. Insulated liner/chimney is important is this situation as walls will constantly condense at low temps besides not drafting very well being cooler.
So if it is a vapor when coming out of the chimney could you see it? I never see anything coming out of my chimney looks like it is not in use when it is?

 
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McGiever
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Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
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Post by McGiever » Wed. Nov. 18, 2015 4:46 pm

Freespirit wrote: Not for the whole season said a little while.
For a little while :shock: ...then better get that liner pulled out now. If liner would begin to crumble pieces can get wedged and cause a blockage in flue and Carbon Monoxide Gas can/will back up into the house. :sick:

:idea: $$$ Better get liner/chimney inspected by someone unbiased and who is not selling liners. $$$ :idea:
Freespirit wrote:A liner will rot even if you have a chimney cap on it so the weather cannot get in?
Yes
Burning coal releases a certain about of moisture while burning. If it all stayed as a vapor until clear exited of chimney it's not so bad...your center of house chimney is a big plus compared to being an external chimney where moisture can condense inside liner/chimney due to lower chimney wall temps. Insulated liner/chimney is important is this situation as walls will constantly condense at low temps besides not drafting very well being cooler.
Freespirit wrote: So if it is a vapor when coming out of the chimney could you see it? I never see anything coming out of my chimney looks like it is not in use when it is?
No, cannot see.

 
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Post by coalder » Wed. Nov. 18, 2015 5:02 pm

FS, I too have been a mason for 40 yrs. Your bricks are shale bricks, along with a Heatalator steel firebox. This tells me relative new. I would be very surprised if you didn't have a clay flue liner. Your bricks near the flashing are in need of pointing up, However I highly suspect a liner crew sucked the previous owner into a liner!!!!! Have someone check from the top to confirm yes or no, a clay flue. Your bricks dictate 16" square that would allow an 8by 8" flue tile. The construction appears too new not to have a flue tile. Hope I'm right.
Good luck
Jim


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