Tell us about your setup.How much are you heating and did you do a heat load calculation,how long are your under ground lines and are they insulated and deep enough not to see any melted snow on top of the groundswyman wrote:Seems to be working for now but I don't think there is any way it will keep up when the temps go to zero and 30mph winds.
Leisure Line AA-220 Boiler First Fire With Pics
- Dennis
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- StokerDon
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Sounds like yet another power venter problem. You should consider building a chimney for this unit.
If you have to cut back the combustion air to the point of not making enough heat, your draft cannot be right.
Hopefully Matt can straiten your system out.
-Don
If you have to cut back the combustion air to the point of not making enough heat, your draft cannot be right.
Hopefully Matt can straiten your system out.
-Don
- swyman
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Thanks coal newbie, it's now 18deg outside and went to take pics for ya and boiler temp was 120 on the hydrostat! So turned up the combustion fans and power vent. Here's the pics
Attachments
- swyman
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I'm using my existing OWB system other than I rerouted the line into the barn. It is 220' from the house...Central Boilers 1" Thermopex. Very efficient stuff. Not sure of heat load but I am heating a old 2000sqft farmhouse and 3 car garage. I have about a 35-40deg temp difference between supply and return.Dennis wrote:Tell us about your setup.How much are you heating and did you do a heat load calculation,how long are your under ground lines and are they insulated and deep enough not to see any melted snow on top of the groundswyman wrote:Seems to be working for now but I don't think there is any way it will keep up when the temps go to zero and 30mph winds.
- StokerDon
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- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Harman SF3500 reduced down to 3 grates connected to its own plenum
- Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut and whatever will fit through the door on the Harman
- Other Heating: Noth'in but COAL! Well, Maybe a little tiny bit of wood
Well, there's our problem, the manometer is laying on the floor.
Without the manometer hooked up, there is no way in heck you are going to get the right draft setting. With a power vent like that, you are tuning the vent speed AND the baro damper. Very tricky. Once it is adjusted properly, things will improve.
-Don
Without the manometer hooked up, there is no way in heck you are going to get the right draft setting. With a power vent like that, you are tuning the vent speed AND the baro damper. Very tricky. Once it is adjusted properly, things will improve.
-Don
- swyman
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I am running the draft to where it is just bouncing the draft regulator set where LL advises (4)StokerDon wrote:Sounds like yet another power venter problem. You should consider building a chimney for this unit.
If you have to cut back the combustion air to the point of not making enough heat, your draft cannot be right.
Hopefully Matt can straiten your system out.
-Don
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Good to start playing but listen to the Don man that manometer is not cheesy it is exactly what you need. Read the instructions and get it set up. I am very surprised the installer did not do that.I am running the draft to where it is just bouncing the draft regulator set where LL advises (4)
Last edited by coalnewbie on Sun. Nov. 22, 2015 6:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- swyman
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Since turning up blower fans boiler temp is climbing, up to 152deg from 120deg in 20 minutes! Don, I will look through the manual again to see where to connect the manometer and get it done.
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- Other Heating: Heating Oil CH, Toyotomi OM 22
There you go, I love it when a plan comes together. These are great stoves.
- swyman
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It just says to install the Dwyer monometer into the base????? Should I do it on the fire side or other side of wall where vent pipe hooks up???
- swyman
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I'm the installer. I installed one on my old corn boiler when I had it but I remember it having a nice mounting plate. LL tells you to use piece of wire and hang it somewhere and there's no holes or anything to grab it???? That is cheesycoalnewbie wrote:Good to start playing but listen to the Don man that manometer is not cheesy it is exactly what you need. Read the instructions and get it set up. I am very surprised the installer did not do that.I am running the draft to where it is just bouncing the draft regulator set where LL advises (4)
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I don't agree but if you want style go with a magnehelic gauge. You could hang Xmas ornaments on it for effect.
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I would try putting foil over the baro till you get everything sorted out. If you have poor draft all that is going to do is make it worse and if your combustion fans are overpowering your power vent you don't need it anyway.... maybe
- windyhill4.2
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If utmost efficiency is real important,why have both stokers lit when the heating load is lite ??