Keystoker 90/105 Adjustment Feed Rod

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arcticcatmatt
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Post by arcticcatmatt » Sat. Nov. 28, 2015 5:53 pm

I've searched and can't find it. New to me stove. Just got it fired up for the first time. The previous owner messed with the feed rod he said. When calling for full heat I only had a tiny flame. I turned it 4 times and now have a much bigger flame but what is it supposed to be? To me, a thermostat is either ON or OFF.. how does this thing regulate automatically how much fire is on the grate? Is it either full burn or idle? Here is a picture of the rod I am talking about

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WNY
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Post by WNY » Sat. Nov. 28, 2015 7:24 pm

Screw it all the way in Clockwise and back it out approx. 4 full turn (CCW) to start. All the way in Clockwise, is MAX Feed.

When calling for heat, the thermostat will cause it to stoke full time, when it's burning really good and calling for heat, you should have a full grate of coals burning with about 1" of ash at the end. if you are pushing hot coals off the end, back it off 1/2 turn at a time and let it catch up, may take an hour or more. and see if you have ash starting at the end, if not, then another 1/2 turn CCW out. Coal takes time to catch up and adjustments are made in small increments on them.

Once you get about 1/2-1" of ash at full burn and always calling for heat, then the feed is adjusted properly. once the thermostat is satisfied, it will stop feeding and the TImer Box will only feed it a litte bit every so often to maintain a fire on IDLE.

On Idle, when not calling for heat from the thermostat, you will only have a small amount burning, maybe an Inch or so of hot coals. as it's heating up, the thermostat will be satisfied at a certain point and should stop feeding and go back to idle.

It may roast you out when it's calling for heat, so make Temperature changes very small. maybe 1 or 2 degrees at a time and let it catch up. dont' use the setback feature, it only causes it to overshoot if more than a 1-2 degree change.

DO yo have a baro Damper and/or draft gauge to check draft?

 
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2001Sierra
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Post by 2001Sierra » Sat. Nov. 28, 2015 8:24 pm

With a stoker idle time is more critical than full burn. With that being said, if idle time feed is off you will have out fires. If full burn feed is off you will not have enough heat. Not enough heat sucks, but out fire sucks more :mad:

 
arcticcatmatt
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Post by arcticcatmatt » Sat. Nov. 28, 2015 8:53 pm

You nailed it! Thanks for such a detailed response! House now 70 in most places (its 36 out).. man does this thing pump heat!! I did what you said and it fixed it. Stove just got told to shut off by the thermostat and it seems to be taking it forever to idle back down. I included some extra pictures. Ducting is next.. going to start a new thread for that. Manometer is .2-.3.. chimney is cleaned (cape cod, stove in basement, so going up a ways).. 3 ton of Reading anthracite in those damn bags that leak, baro damper. My goal is to pump heat upstairs to 2-3 rooms via ducting. Thats why I got the top blower option

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WNY
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Post by WNY » Sun. Nov. 29, 2015 7:31 am

Manometer is in the wrong place, it needs to read between the baro and stove. So you are reading stove draft. That is just reading chimney draft where you have it.

YES, They do put out some good heat and coal a lot takes time to adjust back down once it get going! Don't make huge temperature swing adjustments, most of us just leave it on a certain temperature or adjust 1 or 2 degrees at most.

Looks good !!

 
arcticcatmatt
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Post by arcticcatmatt » Sun. Nov. 29, 2015 10:53 am

I pulled 3 timing pins out and that seemed to help it. I let it "idle" for 1.5 hrs last night to see how low it would go. My brother has this same stove.. he has a nice tight line of fire when it idles.. Mine is 1" thick line of fire.. but his is powervent maybe that changes things.

Noooo don't telll me that about my manometer! I drilled it into the brick so now it has to go there. The barometric damper is right on the stove, real pain to remove and doesn't seem that it can really go anywhere else ugh.

 
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Stoker6268
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Post by Stoker6268 » Sun. Nov. 29, 2015 11:31 am

Lol.
Just leave manometer on wall where it is.
Just move baro to the top and get a longer piece of hose or tubing to reach the bottom of pipe. Put a little furnace cement in th old hole.

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