New (Used) EFM520 Install
- DCCoalBurner
- New Member
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Thu. Oct. 29, 2015 1:30 am
- Location: Dickerson, Maryland
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM520
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
- Other Heating: Backup Oil Burner
Hey Everyone!
I finally got my, new to me, EFM520 installed and have it up and running. Now I have a few questions and want to share a few pictures because I have zero experience with this machine. It is running in parallel with and oil boiler. My EFM maintains the water between 180-160. I have the air at 5 and the feed at 4 or 5 I think.
1) With the pictures I have attached does it look like it's burning correctly? To me it looks great but that's because I have nothing to compare it to.
2) How do you set the draft on those regulators. Do I need to install a gauge on the stack somewhere? If so where should I install it?
3) Now it appears that for my boiler to maintain the water between 180-160 it runs for about 15-20mins maybe every hour and half. This is without any calls for heat and no domestic hot water. Does this seem normal? I do have tied to the oiler boiler so it is maintaining that water as well and I know I don't have the insulation jacket on either. How much would installing the insulation jacket help?
I finally got my, new to me, EFM520 installed and have it up and running. Now I have a few questions and want to share a few pictures because I have zero experience with this machine. It is running in parallel with and oil boiler. My EFM maintains the water between 180-160. I have the air at 5 and the feed at 4 or 5 I think.
1) With the pictures I have attached does it look like it's burning correctly? To me it looks great but that's because I have nothing to compare it to.
2) How do you set the draft on those regulators. Do I need to install a gauge on the stack somewhere? If so where should I install it?
3) Now it appears that for my boiler to maintain the water between 180-160 it runs for about 15-20mins maybe every hour and half. This is without any calls for heat and no domestic hot water. Does this seem normal? I do have tied to the oiler boiler so it is maintaining that water as well and I know I don't have the insulation jacket on either. How much would installing the insulation jacket help?
Attachments
- northernmainecoal
- Member
- Posts: 555
- Joined: Wed. Jan. 22, 2014 8:33 am
- Location: Aroostook County, Maine
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 30-95
- Baseburners & Antiques: Herald Baseheater #6
- Coal Size/Type: Rice/Nut/Stove
When did you take the pictures of your fire burning? shortly after starting the first fire? After it's been stoking for 20-30 minutes you should have a 2 inch wide ash ring around the fire.
You need to install a manometer between the baro and the boiler, you can then use that to get your baro to open at -.05
It sounds like it is running much more then needed with no calls for heat. What is your location? what is the outside temp? boiler in the basement?
You need to install a manometer between the baro and the boiler, you can then use that to get your baro to open at -.05
It sounds like it is running much more then needed with no calls for heat. What is your location? what is the outside temp? boiler in the basement?
- DCCoalBurner
- New Member
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Thu. Oct. 29, 2015 1:30 am
- Location: Dickerson, Maryland
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM520
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
- Other Heating: Backup Oil Burner
Yea I took those pictures shortly after starting the fire. I feel like I have a good ash ring when it's stroking for 20 - 30 mins.northernmainecoal wrote:When did you take the pictures of your fire burning? shortly after starting the first fire? After it's been stoking for 20-30 minutes you should have a 2 inch wide ash ring around the fire.
You need to install a manometer between the baro and the boiler, you can then use that to get your baro to open at -.05
It sounds like it is running much more then needed with no calls for heat. What is your location? what is the outside temp? boiler in the basement?
Ok I'll install that so I can dial my draft in. Could it be that my draft is too strong and it's pulling a lot of heat out of my boiler causing it to run more?
I'm located 40 miles north of Washington DC. Since I have started it (This past Monday night), average outdoor temp is 55-60 during the day and drops to 35-40 at night. Yes the boiler is installed in my basement.
-
- Member
- Posts: 2270
- Joined: Sun. Sep. 30, 2012 8:20 pm
- Location: Ithaca,NY
DC
Get the insulation and covers on it and put in the manometer . My boiler is in an insulated garage and never fires on low water temp. The timer and heat calls are enough to keep the thing above the LL.
the only heat you are really losing is up the chimney as ambient loss is transferred to your house. But most of us prefer to have the heat exactly where we want it and when..... congratz on the efm ,your on easy street now
Get the insulation and covers on it and put in the manometer . My boiler is in an insulated garage and never fires on low water temp. The timer and heat calls are enough to keep the thing above the LL.
the only heat you are really losing is up the chimney as ambient loss is transferred to your house. But most of us prefer to have the heat exactly where we want it and when..... congratz on the efm ,your on easy street now
- coal stoker
- Member
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Tue. Feb. 17, 2015 5:07 pm
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 EFM DF520
- Coal Size/Type: Rice/Anthracite
- Other Heating: oil fired boiler
DC
Fill in your profile
Where are you from
CS
Fill in your profile
Where are you from
CS
- DCCoalBurner
- New Member
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Thu. Oct. 29, 2015 1:30 am
- Location: Dickerson, Maryland
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM520
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
- Other Heating: Backup Oil Burner
I have the metal cover but not the actual insulation. Any recommendations on the insulation type?waldo lemieux wrote:DC
Get the insulation and covers on it and put in the manometer . My boiler is in an insulated garage and never fires on low water temp. The timer and heat calls are enough to keep the thing above the LL.
the only heat you are really losing is up the chimney as ambient loss is transferred to your house. But most of us prefer to have the heat exactly where we want it and when..... congratz on the efm ,your on easy street now
Thank You! I think this machine is sweet.
I have another question. Let's say I have a power outage. What are the odds that the coal will start burning down the auger tube?
- DCCoalBurner
- New Member
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Thu. Oct. 29, 2015 1:30 am
- Location: Dickerson, Maryland
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM520
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
- Other Heating: Backup Oil Burner
Meant to do that earlier.coal stoker wrote:DC
Fill in your profile
Where are you from
CS
I'm from Dickerson, Maryland.
- coal stoker
- Member
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Tue. Feb. 17, 2015 5:07 pm
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 EFM DF520
- Coal Size/Type: Rice/Anthracite
- Other Heating: oil fired boiler
I just used fiberglass R-11 and removed what I did not need or would not fit under the jacket.
Just use some wire to tie the insulation in place around the boiler and get those jackets on.
Keep the heat in the Boiler!!!
It does not have to be pretty just insulate it.
CS
Just use some wire to tie the insulation in place around the boiler and get those jackets on.
Keep the heat in the Boiler!!!
It does not have to be pretty just insulate it.
CS
- coal stoker
- Member
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Tue. Feb. 17, 2015 5:07 pm
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 EFM DF520
- Coal Size/Type: Rice/Anthracite
- Other Heating: oil fired boiler
This what I got.
Attachments
- DCCoalBurner
- New Member
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Thu. Oct. 29, 2015 1:30 am
- Location: Dickerson, Maryland
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM520
- Coal Size/Type: Rice
- Other Heating: Backup Oil Burner
Alright Nice!! Does it still heat the area around it? Since I have mine in my basement I was kinda hoping it would heat my basement as well. I guess if I insulate it then I can just and another zone for my basement. hmm...coal stoker wrote:I just used fiberglass R-11 and removed what I did not need or would not fit under the jacket.
Just use some wire to tie the insulation in place around the boiler and get those jackets on.
Keep the heat in the Boiler!!!
It does not have to be pretty just insulate it.
CS
I see you don't have your domestic water hooked up. I'm just curious why? I'm about to hook mine up tonight so I don't waste money with my electric water heater.
- coal stoker
- Member
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Tue. Feb. 17, 2015 5:07 pm
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1986 EFM DF520
- Coal Size/Type: Rice/Anthracite
- Other Heating: oil fired boiler
My DHW is a zone on the boiler with an indirect storage tank, I have a large home and a house full of women.
Lots of showers!!!!!!!
I found that the boiler without the jackets and insulation threw a lot of heat into my basement, it is still warm after the jackets and you can actually sit down there and not sweat.
Lots of showers!!!!!!!
I found that the boiler without the jackets and insulation threw a lot of heat into my basement, it is still warm after the jackets and you can actually sit down there and not sweat.
Attachments
- CoalHeat
- Member
- Posts: 8862
- Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
- Location: Stillwater, New Jersey
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
- Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
- Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
- Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
Looks great!!! Congratulations!!!
- windyhill4.2
- Member
- Posts: 6072
- Joined: Fri. Nov. 22, 2013 2:17 pm
- Location: Jonestown,Pa.17038
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Crane 404 with variable blower
- Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both
We had a 4.5 hr outage with no issue,but if you are around when the power goes out,you can hand crank more coal into the pot to help keep the fire on top.DCCoalBurner wrote:
I have another question. Let's say I have a power outage. What are the odds that the coal will start burning down the auger tube?
- CoalHeat
- Member
- Posts: 8862
- Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
- Location: Stillwater, New Jersey
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
- Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
- Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
- Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
Correct. The EFM pot is very deep, it's common for the fire to survive many hours, especially if the stoker was running when the power went out.
Early on I was fooled a few times by mine, I looked in and it was completely dark. I jumped the thermostat wires, it starts running. Then a tiny little flame pops out of the middle of the pot.
Just don't assume it's gone out and stick your finger in the ash.
Early on I was fooled a few times by mine, I looked in and it was completely dark. I jumped the thermostat wires, it starts running. Then a tiny little flame pops out of the middle of the pot.
Just don't assume it's gone out and stick your finger in the ash.
- StokerDon
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 7486
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 11:17 am
- Location: PA, Southern York County!
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Gentleman Janitor GJ-5, Van Wert VA-600, Axeman Anderson130 X3.
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Harman SF3500 reduced down to 3 grates connected to its own plenum
- Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut and whatever will fit through the door on the Harman
- Other Heating: Noth'in but COAL! Well, Maybe a little tiny bit of wood
I think the only way the fire can go down the feed pipe is if there is combustion air driving it there. In a power outage your combustion blower will not be running.DCCoalBurner wrote:I have another question. Let's say I have a power outage. What are the odds that the coal will start burning down the auger tube?
-Don