Newbie to Coal

Waswood · Post by **Waswood** » Sat. Dec. 05, 2015 8:35 am

Hi all, I am new to coal and just wanted to say I have already learned a lot reading at this site. It has kept me from and explosions so far. I have a ds160 now and have used wood for my entire life until the other day. I fired my 1st coal fire up on top of a bed of wood coals. Since then I have enjoyed the burn time and steady heat from the coal. I bought 2 ton of nut to try this season. I had a little trouble shaking because the nuggets were getting stuck between the grates but I found another post about short shakes and that helps. Am I right to fill the stove up to door level on this model ? I started with about 1/2 that much but have worked it to the bottom level of the door . Also if the temps warm up should I use less or keep it deep and use lower air amounts? I guess my only other concern is draft. DS told me to not install a damper manual or biometric with this stove. I seem to have a lot of draft it's ok but I wonder if it should be lowered? I have not had it tested yet. Thanks for any input.

michaelanthony · Post by **michaelanthony** » Sat. Dec. 05, 2015 9:07 am

Welcome to the world of coal and heat. A manometer is used to measure draft, an inexpensive instrument. The manometer will tell you if you need a damper baro or mpd, it would be irresponsible for I or anyone for that matter to say as all set ups are different.
Load all hand fed coal stoves to the top of the bricks and adjust output by adjusting input

Mike

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Sat. Dec. 05, 2015 9:15 am

Welcome to the forum, Waswood. Glad to have you.

As MA stated a manometer will tell you what your draft is. A lot of people here on the forum use one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009PAN3C8?keywo ... 1_1&sr=8-1
You will need a piece of 3/16ths brake line from your local auto parts store to finish installation of it. Most let it hooked up all the time.

ddahlgren · Post by **ddahlgren** » Sat. Dec. 05, 2015 9:31 am

Always fill to top and adjust heat with primary air under the coal bed.

freetown fred · Post by **freetown fred** » Sat. Dec. 05, 2015 9:36 am

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Ya think the manufacturer might lnow what they're talkin about?????? I'm thinkin they probably do.

lowfog01 · Post by **lowfog01** » Sat. Dec. 05, 2015 11:02 am

Welcome to the wonderful world of inexpensive heat! My suggestion is to keep a log of what you do and what works and doesn't work. Learning the stove takes a lot of attention to details and you'll never remember them all. The log will help you remember. Good luck, Lisa

oliver power · Post by **oliver power** » Sat. Dec. 05, 2015 11:07 am

freetown fred wrote:If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Ya think the manufacturer might lnow what they're talkin about?????? I'm thinkin they probably do.

Problem with that Fred, My D.S. Manual says; If you haven't already done so, you MUST install a damper (Manual or Barometric) now. Maybe they meant to say; "IF" you're going to install a damper, you Must install it now. Who Knows........

Waswood · Post by **Waswood** » Sat. Dec. 05, 2015 12:57 pm

Thanks for all of your replies. I will get a manometer to check the draft . How exactly do they work? Does the tube connected to the stovepipe have a draw and you connect the meter to the tube and it measures the draw?What is optimal? If it's to high what's the best way to lower it ? A biometric or manual damper? DS told me not to use either ( I'm thinking co poss problem)and I'm ok with that but if it's to high I hate to waste fuel / heat. The log is a good ideal to keep track of things. I'm actually surprised that it's went well for me so far. I read stories of coal fires hard to start and going out etc. mine started in about 20min and has not went out yet ( only been a few days). I loaded it full today I was only loading about 1/2 -3/4 loads I guess my wood habits had me thinking I would overheat the house. I think this thing will run 2 days on a load full. Like I said earlier I bought 2 ton and am storing it in a funnel body wagon with a roof on it. 1 think that works well is I put a piece of 3/4 plywood inside the wagon blocking the Shute door and cut a smaller hole in it so I don't get to much at once. So I can place a bucket under door and open , when the it's full shut door with next to none missing the bucket. I went to my local tractor supply and they had 27 bags of coal so I cleaned them out just for a little extra stock lol.

oliver power · Post by **oliver power** » Sat. Dec. 05, 2015 1:19 pm

Manual says ALL D.S, stoves are to be set at -.06 for draft. I'm assuming that's a high setting, for when wind gusts. Example: My chimney has very good draw. When weather is calm, I have a steady draw of -.04 to -.05. When windy, my chimney draft jumps up over -.20, and anywhere in-between. My D.S. 1600 stove performs nicely, anywhere from -.04 to -.06, especially since switching coal brands.

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Sat. Dec. 05, 2015 1:24 pm

Mfgr. Would say no barometric for wood burning...they expect few to burn coal. And coal can be different... Wood will build up quickly with creosote and make barometric Inaccurate plus will make chimney a flare when creosote caught fire.

deepwoods · Post by **deepwoods** » Sat. Dec. 05, 2015 3:47 pm

oliver power wrote:Manual says ALL D.S, stoves are to be set at -.06 for draft. I'm assuming that's a high setting, for when wind gusts. Example: My chimney has very good draw. When weather is calm, I have a steady draw of -.04 to -.05. When windy, my chimney draft jumps up over -.20, and anywhere in-between. My D.S. 1600 stove performs nicely, anywhere from -.04 to -.06, especially since switching coal brands.

May I ask about the - (minus) readings you have listed. That to me would mean a loss of draft? On the Dwyer mano everything to the right of zero is + (positive draft) and readings to the left of zero - (minus) is negative draft. Just my 2C.

ddahlgren · Post by **ddahlgren** » Sat. Dec. 05, 2015 4:11 pm

deepwoods wrote:
oliver power wrote:Manual says ALL D.S, stoves are to be set at -.06 for draft. I'm assuming that's a high setting, for when wind gusts. Example: My chimney has very good draw. When weather is calm, I have a steady draw of -.04 to -.05. When windy, my chimney draft jumps up over -.20, and anywhere in-between. My D.S. 1600 stove performs nicely, anywhere from -.04 to -.06, especially since switching coal brands.
May I ask about the - (minus) readings you have listed. That to me would mean a loss of draft? On the Dwyer mano everything to the right of zero is + (positive draft) and readings to the left of zero - (minus) is negative draft. Just my 2C.

Actually in the absolute sense Oliver is correct if looking at absolute pressure. It is sort of like talking about how much vacuum an engine or anything else has and a non-sensical unit. You have pressure or a lack of it. The Dwyer manometers are actually hooked up backwards as far as absolute pressure goes. This is to use the extended range the positive side has. All draft is a negative pressure lower than the atmospheric pressure in order to have flue gases rise. If you have 0.03 in. h2o draft your chimney is - 0.03 in. h2o below atmospheric pressure so a negative number. It is tossed around as a positive one as if you have some or not but in reality you are either plus or minus compared to atmospheric. minus and flue gases go up and out positive and CO alarm goes off.

Waswood · Post by **Waswood** » Sat. Dec. 05, 2015 7:34 pm

The whole pressure check thing is new to me. We never worried about it as long as we didn't have smoke in the house and was warm. Wouldnt your pressure change with the amount of air your letting in to the fire?

joeq · Post by **joeq** » Sat. Dec. 05, 2015 10:04 pm

Waswood wrote:The whole pressure check thing is new to me. We never worried about it as long as we didn't have smoke in the house and was warm. Wouldnt your pressure change with the amount of air your letting in to the fire?

Whoa! You're opening up the proverbial can of worms with that one.

Your stove will be most efficient, at a specific setting, and can be controlled more accurately when adjusted properly for the heat you desire out of it. Many variables will affect its performance such as draft, temperature, coal size, ect, ect. Theoretically adjusting the intake damper will provide some type of control, but not the most optimum. There are a few tools available to help you burn coal better. The more experienced than me, will fill you in soon.

ddahlgren · Post by **ddahlgren** » Sat. Dec. 05, 2015 10:09 pm

Waswood wrote:The whole pressure check thing is new to me. We never worried about it as long as we didn't have smoke in the house and was warm. Wouldnt your pressure change with the amount of air your letting in to the fire?

Without a draft regulator it will move around for a lot of reasons mostly flue gas temperature. Obviously wind and weather a factor as well. I would guess as you open primary air stack temp goes up and if no draft regulator draft goes up too.