I like very much a technique recommended by Emory which is to drill down to grate level in one or two spots with a poker which leaves a channel of very hot air to light and keep lit those blue flames. Do this as a final thing after shaking. It works very well with nut coal and less well with pea because the pea tend to collapse the channel more easily.Jmb02 wrote:The problem I keep running into is I get the blue flames going for ten minutes or so and then I shut the damper and they die off 10 minutes later
First Coal Stove
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the handle had a hair line fracture in it when I got it and it finally let go. Still questioning the draft as well as myself.Rich W. wrote:Is your primary air wide open when you close the damper? If so it sounds like your losing draft for some reason. The handle...I broke one too when starting out. My latch was way too tight. Easy to adjust though. Do you have the manual? It doesn't have to be super tight if you have decent gaskets. I can close mine with two fingers. Also, keep the handle bolt tight...the one that holds the ceramic piece on...no play!
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the handle had a hair line fracture in it when I got it and it finally let go. Still questioning the draft as well as myself.Rich W. wrote:Is your primary air wide open when you close the damper? If so it sounds like your losing draft for some reason. The handle...I broke one too when starting out. My latch was way too tight. Easy to adjust though. Do you have the manual? It doesn't have to be super tight if you have decent gaskets. I can close mine with two fingers. Also, keep the handle bolt tight...the one that holds the ceramic piece on...no play!
- Rich W.
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When mine broke I moved the one from the damper handle until I got a replacement. The damper can be moved without the handle. Elmer's white glue works on ceramic. Put the repaired one on the damper and no one will notice (except you).
- Rich W.
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Revisited your photo: I see you have the removable type. Mine are fixed, so forget the swap advice. Sorry, but the glue idea should work after adjusting the latch!
- michaelanthony
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Don't worry about the glass if you're hesitant about leaving the ash pan door open. There is a current of air between the grill and the inside of the doors/glass. I'm sure a fully loaded stove with a burning fire against the grill is much hotter than the blue flames shooting by the windows. Also check the bottom of your doors where they meet, my doors have a small area on the bottom close to where they meet without gasket...about a half inch. This allows for some secondary air to keep the glass clean, (air wash), and keep the blues lit.
- VigIIPeaBurner
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I broke mine the first few weeks I had the stove. I glued it together more than once until 2 years ago it shattered. Used the stove bolt and nipple for the past 2 years. Just bought a new porcelain handle this year. I am on the original glass. Don't worry about flames on it. I'd fear pressure on the glass. If hot coals are wedged against it, slowly open the door to let it fall onto the lip.
Fire is a reaction. You need heat, fuel, and oxygen. Hot coal puts off gas initially. To get the blue flames above the top of the bed you need enough heat, gas, and oxygen over the hot coal. Keeping that heat in the stove will help warm it quicker. Too much air and you blow it up the chimney. It really depends on a few things. Mainly you have to figure it out by looking for clues on how your fire reacts to your changes. Try suggestions that everyone offer but don't change too many variables at once.
Draft has a lot to do with it. Coal quality and size is the second most important. I've had honery coal that took forever and needed to be coaxed with air from the ash pan. Drilling down to form vertical channels for air as franko b said does help. I love the coal that lights right off to blue flames without hassle. How much fire is in the firebox is probably third. As you can tell, some of these variables are fixed (draft/weather & coal on hand). You can still modify your routine to adapt but you'll have to keep trying - it's an empirical science!
Look to see how thick the fire is. If you can see red coal 3-4 inches deep thru the grill you have a marginal fire. Open the internal damper. I don't bother moving the air flap as it opens enough on its own. My draft is very strong. I then do what Rich does then and add a few inches and wait for it to start burning with medium to strong blue flames. I'll add a second coat to about fill the box. That should quickly take off. Then I do my shaking, poking and top off with fresh coal.
If the fire is thick, I'll shake, poke, and reload with 25-30 lbs. If it's sluggish coal or warm out, I might crack the ash door until I see flames lick up the front of the grill and close the ash door. Usually the flame in the lower firebox will immediately ignite the gas above. If the stove is warm I'll close the internal damper and let it equilibrate. I've checked the stove top and it's usually 400+ at this time. If I leave the stove go to 450-500, I start to smell hot stove pipe.
You'll have to see what works for you. Without using the stove's controls as variables, it could take a while like you describe.
Fire is a reaction. You need heat, fuel, and oxygen. Hot coal puts off gas initially. To get the blue flames above the top of the bed you need enough heat, gas, and oxygen over the hot coal. Keeping that heat in the stove will help warm it quicker. Too much air and you blow it up the chimney. It really depends on a few things. Mainly you have to figure it out by looking for clues on how your fire reacts to your changes. Try suggestions that everyone offer but don't change too many variables at once.
Draft has a lot to do with it. Coal quality and size is the second most important. I've had honery coal that took forever and needed to be coaxed with air from the ash pan. Drilling down to form vertical channels for air as franko b said does help. I love the coal that lights right off to blue flames without hassle. How much fire is in the firebox is probably third. As you can tell, some of these variables are fixed (draft/weather & coal on hand). You can still modify your routine to adapt but you'll have to keep trying - it's an empirical science!
Look to see how thick the fire is. If you can see red coal 3-4 inches deep thru the grill you have a marginal fire. Open the internal damper. I don't bother moving the air flap as it opens enough on its own. My draft is very strong. I then do what Rich does then and add a few inches and wait for it to start burning with medium to strong blue flames. I'll add a second coat to about fill the box. That should quickly take off. Then I do my shaking, poking and top off with fresh coal.
If the fire is thick, I'll shake, poke, and reload with 25-30 lbs. If it's sluggish coal or warm out, I might crack the ash door until I see flames lick up the front of the grill and close the ash door. Usually the flame in the lower firebox will immediately ignite the gas above. If the stove is warm I'll close the internal damper and let it equilibrate. I've checked the stove top and it's usually 400+ at this time. If I leave the stove go to 450-500, I start to smell hot stove pipe.
You'll have to see what works for you. Without using the stove's controls as variables, it could take a while like you describe.
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I may finally be getting the hang of this, thanks to you all. Fire is holding 640 degrees for the past 12 hours while running the thermostat just a hair to the left. Slicing has definitely worked wonders.
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- Rich W.
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Sounds good! Looks like she needed to breathe more! Good looking fire now!
- windyhill4.2
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That is awesome ..... a Down draft stove Nice looking fire too !!
- michaelanthony
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She looks real happy Jmb02...now just think of all the cooking you can do on top of her!
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I don't know about that. I cook some good food but it usually involves oils or butter. Hate to make a mess of such a nice itemmichaelanthony wrote:She looks real happy Jmb02...now just think of all the cooking you can do on top of her!
- VigIIPeaBurner
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You got it! You'll hit bumps as the variables change but you've got the basics if you can keep it going at full power for a string of day. The string will go from days to weeks to months. Welcome aboardJmb02 wrote:I may finally be getting the hang of this, thanks to you all. Fire is holding 640 degrees for the past 12 hours while running the thermostat just a hair to the left. Slicing has definitely worked wonders.
- michaelanthony
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My stove loves butter ...grab a cast iron skillet and a dutch oven, no mess.Jmb02 wrote:I don't know about that. I cook some good food but it usually involves oils or butter. Hate to make a mess of such a nice itemmichaelanthony wrote:She looks real happy Jmb02...now just think of all the cooking you can do on top of her!
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So being that I question everything ... how hot does anthracite burn? I have this fluke 566 ir thermometer, which reads from -454 to 2501 degrees f. When I shoot the red hot coal Bed with it, it errors out.
Edit: my reading skills were a complete failure here ... this model only goes to 1202 f with the ir.
Edit: my reading skills were a complete failure here ... this model only goes to 1202 f with the ir.
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Last edited by Jmb02 on Wed. Jan. 13, 2016 9:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.