Baro Damper Question

 
Waswood
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Post by Waswood » Mon. Dec. 14, 2015 5:51 am

So if your using a mpd you just try to set it so your Mano is reading about a .03 ?


 
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Post by coalfan » Mon. Dec. 14, 2015 6:43 am

DS states 0.06 water colum.

 
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Post by freetown fred » Mon. Dec. 14, 2015 7:12 am

You mean the stick match I use to see if my chimney draws?? :D My MPD stays open 99% of the time. Go with the mano. WW. To many good reports on them. I'm just old & grumpy! ;). Yes I would say 03-05 is a good reading.
Waswood wrote:So if your using a mpd you just try to set it so your Mano is reading about a .03 ?

 
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Post by Waswood » Mon. Dec. 14, 2015 8:05 am

Thanks fellas. Guess I have an install to do. Looks like I have time with this weather...

 
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Post by Waswood » Mon. Dec. 14, 2015 11:32 am

I called DS and they said a .06-.08 is a good draft . With these warm temps I was hovering in the .08 area. They said if I can't keep my fire low enough to install a damper , either style is fine with wood or coal . But the manual is how most people go because of the $$.

 
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Post by SWPaDon » Mon. Dec. 14, 2015 11:37 am

Waswood wrote:I called DS and they said a .06-.08 is a good draft . With these warm temps I was hovering in the .08 area. They said if I can't keep my fire low enough to install a damper , either style is fine with wood or coal . But the manual is how most people go because of the $$.
Was that with the stove damper ( the rod at the top center) open or closed? With it closed, you may get a lower draft reading due to the longer pathway of the flue gases. Especially with coal.

 
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Post by Waswood » Mon. Dec. 14, 2015 11:53 am

SWPaDon wrote:
Waswood wrote:I called DS and they said a .06-.08 is a good draft . With these warm temps I was hovering in the .08 area. They said if I can't keep my fire low enough to install a damper , either style is fine with wood or coal . But the manual is how most people go because of the $$.
Was that with the stove damper ( the rod at the top center) open or closed? With it closed, you may get a lower draft reading due to the longer pathway of the flue gases. Especially with coal.
Top damper was closed to let reburn work . Also bimetal air was closed, only air was top air and it was set at 1/2 open . It was just a small wood fire for the evening.


 
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Post by SWPaDon » Mon. Dec. 14, 2015 12:41 pm

Waswood wrote:Top damper was closed to let reburn work . Also bimetal air was closed, only air was top air and it was set at 1/2 open . It was just a small wood fire for the evening.
Just curious. Some on here have said not to set a baro with a wood fire. I dunno, I've never used one myself. I've only ever used a MPD.

 
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Post by Lightning » Mon. Dec. 14, 2015 1:57 pm

Waswood wrote:I called DS and they said a .06-.08 is a good draft . With these warm temps I was hovering in the .08 area. They said if I can't keep my fire low enough to install a damper , either style is fine with wood or coal . But the manual is how most people go because of the $$.
That draft they recommended seems kinda high to me. My chimney would only hit those numbers if it was below zero outside and pushing the furnace hard.

During these mild temps, my draft wanders between -.01 and -.02. I have my baro set to limit at -.03. I don't like to see it ride past -.04.

I think that stove would run just fine with -.03 to -.04. I don't understand why they want the draft so strong.

I disagree with using a baro for wood. It can lead to problems.

 
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Post by Waswood » Mon. Dec. 14, 2015 2:08 pm

SWPaDon wrote:
Waswood wrote:Top damper was closed to let reburn work . Also bimetal air was closed, only air was top air and it was set at 1/2 open . It was just a small wood fire for the evening.
Just curious. Some on here have said not to set a baro with a wood fire. I dunno, I've never used one myself. I've only ever used a MPD.
According to DS it will help keep your wood fire from burning to hot . I explained to them I'm only using wood when temps are warmer. They said it didn't matter which damper just 1 was manual and the other automatic. I always used a manual on my old stove never tried the Baro . Like others said I guess it's poss for a Baro to feed a chimney fire .

 
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Post by Waswood » Mon. Dec. 14, 2015 2:12 pm

Lightning wrote:
Waswood wrote:I called DS and they said a .06-.08 is a good draft . With these warm temps I was hovering in the .08 area. They said if I can't keep my fire low enough to install a damper , either style is fine with wood or coal . But the manual is how most people go because of the $$.
That draft they recommended seems kinda high to me. My chimney would only hit those numbers if it was below zero outside and pushing the furnace hard.

During these mild temps, my draft wanders between -.01 and -.02. I have my baro set to limit at -.03. I don't like to see it ride past -.04.

I think that stove would run just fine with -.03 to -.04. I don't understand why they want the draft so strong.

I disagree with using a baro for wood. It can lead to problems.
I talked to them when I bought the stove and they gave me the impression they were worried about not enough draft and co problems that's why they originally said no damper. Now they say most people don't have that good of a draft ... So I guess it's ok to slow it down . Why do you say wood can cause a problem with Baro? Because of the feeding a chimney fire?

 
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Post by Lightning » Mon. Dec. 14, 2015 2:25 pm

It's thought that by introducing cool air into the flue gases with a wood fire, it would cause creosote to form and cling to the chimney walls more actively. Plus the chimney fire feeding thing.. It's also thought that creosote will deposit on the baro door, throwing it out of adjustment.

 
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Post by Waswood » Mon. Dec. 14, 2015 3:52 pm

Lightning wrote:It's thought that by introducing cool air into the flue gases with a wood fire, it would cause creosote to form and cling to the chimney walls more actively. Plus the chimney fire feeding thing.. It's also thought that creosote will deposit on the baro door, throwing it out of adjustment.
Ok I understand that. So here's another question . Does the Mano change enough when you burn that you are always making adjustments to a manual damper? my old wood stove had a manual and it was 75 percent closed 90 percent of the time. Basically only opening it to reload and it worked fine .But then again I didn't have the Mano hooked to it letting me know what the draft was.

 
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Post by freetown fred » Mon. Dec. 14, 2015 4:20 pm

I'm thinkin that will be fine WW--are you burnin yet??? If not, why not? It ain't rocket science & the only way to do it right is to do it. Most of us come from a wood background. Me?? 40+ yrs worth. Still got the wood beast in the back part of the house..

 
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Post by Waswood » Mon. Dec. 14, 2015 4:49 pm

freetown fred wrote:I'm thinkin that will be fine WW--are you burnin yet??? If not, why not? It ain't rocket science & the only way to do it right is to do it. Most of us come from a wood background. Me?? 40+ yrs worth. Still got the wood beast in the back part of the house..
I have been burning but had to let the coal go out due to these temps around 70. Had the wood fire last night ( 1st fire with the Mano) just to knock the chill off. Later this week highs in the low-mid 40s it will be coal time again . :dancing: prob is looks like another warm up coming next week :bang:


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