Controling Heat Output; 16" Firepot Baseheater

cpi · Post by **cpi** » Wed. Dec. 16, 2015 7:07 pm

'
* Can a Glenwood No. 6 or similar base heater be readily controlled to not overheat the space described below?

* If so, is the possibility dependent on having an especially strong drafting chimney? This question is flawed to its roots.

Is a 16" firepot base heater too much stove for this area?

I am concerned because it does not seem to take as much energy to heat or cool this structure as I would have thought.

KITCHEN & DINING ROOM ARE SAME AS SHOWN

.JPG | 131KB | P1020496.JPG

Only the main public living area will be open to the heat produced by a stove; living room, kitchen, dining room and large loft are all completely open to a cathedral ceiling.

Environment to be heated:

An assumed reasonable drafting chimney – certainly not a paragon
1,150 Sq./Ft. of floor area
11,500 Cu./Ft. volume
Space is open to a 19 foot high Cathedral ceiling, 38 feet long
Living area is built over a moderately sealed heavily built lightly-heated crawl space
Reasonably well sealed living area construction
Roof/ceiling is ¾ T&G chestnut overlaid with a 3 inch closed cell foam/ plywood sandwich.
Thick and dense wood walls with unknown insulation; this is not a cold or drafty house.
2 x exterior entrance doors
11 x windows
2 x skylights

Chris

dlj · Post by **dlj** » Wed. Dec. 16, 2015 7:14 pm

Most Glenwood #6's will idle easily with a surface temperature of around 250*F. If the stove is quite tight they will idle lower. Dropping below 200*F is not so easy to maintain over long time periods. But they easily run down to around 250*F and you can run them like that for as long as you like. It looks to me from your photos that you would be quite comfortable in that space with one. You'd certainly use very small amounts of coal...

dj

Post by **fifthg** » Wed. Dec. 16, 2015 7:35 pm

"readily"controlled? There is no question it could do an excellent job,but if you have never operated one,there would be a learning curve. So,"it depends".Maybe not so readily for you,with all due respect,as your questions lead me to believe you have not.Do it.You will be glad you did.Welcome to the forum.

scalabro · Post by **scalabro** » Wed. Dec. 16, 2015 8:45 pm

That area is begging for a stove like Crawford 40. If I may be so bold.....the gas path insulated, suspended pot cylinder stoves would be able to hold lower temps longer than an equivalent size G6 style stove. AFA the chimney the stronger the better as you can always lower the draft but it's not as easy to increase it.

Where is the chimney....any pics?

Pancho · Post by **Pancho** » Thu. Dec. 17, 2015 6:47 am

Yes, you will be able to idle that down to where you won't notice it's lit. The trick to heating a structure like that is to not let it get cold and vice versa when trying to cool it.

Having a structure that is easy to heat makes things easy on your end.

......where's the pics of the stove??!!??!?!?.

cpi · Post by **cpi** » Thu. Dec. 17, 2015 7:57 am

I am leaning toward something a little more mainstream to learn on...

Chris

Canaan coal man · Post by **Canaan coal man** » Thu. Dec. 17, 2015 9:32 am

Chris my G6 with a flat rope sealed bottom door, I can run 175* on the top of the barrel in 50-60* weather with .01-.02 draft primary closed in bb mode with the mpd fully open. on a 14ft 6" stainless chimney.

scalabro · Post by **scalabro** » Thu. Dec. 17, 2015 9:40 am

That's a beautiful stove Chris!

I keep us posted

cpi · Post by **cpi** » Thu. Dec. 17, 2015 10:53 am

scalabro wrote:That's a beautiful stove Chris!

I keep us posted

It might be a tough one to get your hands on. It resides in a protestant church in Graufthal France.

What do you think Scott, some nickel on the firebox door?

Chris

coalnewbie · Post by **coalnewbie** » Thu. Dec. 17, 2015 10:57 am

Chris my G6 with a flat rope sealed bottom door, I can run 175* on the top of the barrel in 50-60* weather with .01-.02 draft primary closed in bb mode with the mpd fully open. on a 14ft 6" stainless chimney.

ditto. No need for a Crawford but you do need to take care of air leaks.

cpi · Post by **cpi** » Thu. Dec. 17, 2015 11:09 am

coalnewbie wrote:
Chris my G6 with a flat rope sealed bottom door, I can run 175* on the top of the barrel in 50-60* weather with .01-.02 draft primary closed in bb mode with the mpd fully open. on a 14ft 6" stainless chimney.
ditto. No need for a Crawford but you do need to take care of air leaks.

What is the effective height of your chimney? And what is the height above the highest point of the structure?
Is the living-space well sealed or is air infiltration easy?
Chris

Sunny Boy · Post by **Sunny Boy** » Thu. Dec. 17, 2015 11:15 am

And having a draft manometer hooked into the stack so that you can learn how to set a check damper, that can help get the stove to run at lower temps.

Many of these stoves came with built in check dampers, or as with the G6, G8 and Glenwood Oaks, a pipe elbow with a check damper built into it.

Paul

scalabro · Post by **scalabro** » Thu. Dec. 17, 2015 11:18 am

cpi wrote:
scalabro wrote:That's a beautiful stove Chris!

I keep us posted
It might be a tough one to get your hands on. It resides in a protestant church in Graufthal France.

What do you think Scott, some nickel on the firebox door?
Chris

Nickel everything

cpi · Post by **cpi** » Thu. Dec. 17, 2015 11:39 am

Sunny Boy wrote:..., a pipe elbow with a check damper built into it.
Paul

Paul,

Intellectually, the elbow with a check damper makes sense to me, providing I believe that the chimney will not become obstructed by a random freak event during my absence.

But, my gut says be afraid.

If I were to see over a long period of time that my chimney always maintained a solid draft on warm days, without heat added to the flue, then I'd fear less. How about you? Without experience, I am just extrapolating from theory.

The built in check dampers in the suspended pot stoves are indeed an attractive feature. Lets see what evaluation [a post soon..] of my chimney turns up. So far, I have tried not too get excited about any particular stove or type. Regulatory compliance, insurance, coal storage and availability, have all conspired to turn this project into a hard push uphill.
Chris

Pancho · Post by **Pancho** » Thu. Dec. 17, 2015 11:50 am

cpi wrote:
Sunny Boy wrote:..., a pipe elbow with a check damper built into it.
Paul
Paul,

Intellectually, the elbow with a check damper makes sense to me, providing I believe that the chimney will not become obstructed by a random freak event during my absence.

But, my gut says be afraid.

If I were to see over a long period of time that my chimney always maintained a solid draft on warm days, without heat added to the flue, then I'd fear less. How about you? Without experience, I am just extrapolating from theory.

The built in check dampers in the suspended pot stoves are indeed an attractive feature. Lets see what evaluation [a post soon..] of my chimney turns up. So far, I have tried not too get excited about any particular stove or type. Regulatory compliance, insurance, coal storage and availability, have all conspired to turn this project into a hard push uphill.
Chris

Don't be.
I use my check damper all the time when it's windy. It works like a charm.

IF there were to be an event that blocks your chimney or a sudden draft reversal, CO will get into your living space if there's a check damper or not.

On the G-dub #6 and #8 the gas ring air inlets are open all the time and the hole where your finial attaches is far from air tight.

Controling Heat Output; 16" Firepot Baseheater

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