Poking

 
coalder
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Posts: 1491
Joined: Mon. Dec. 16, 2013 1:48 pm
Location: somewhere high in the catskill mountains
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: harman sf 160
Coal Size/Type: Nut
Other Heating: wood parlor stove

Post by coalder » Thu. Dec. 24, 2015 7:22 am

With the Harman boiler I have to poke at each reload. If I don't I get dead spots real quick front and back. I poke & rake first to get the ash to settle, Then shake about 3 to 4 times.
Jim

 
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hotblast1357
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Posts: 5657
Joined: Mon. Mar. 10, 2014 10:06 pm
Location: Peasleeville NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1984 Eshland S260 coal gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite pea
Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace

Post by hotblast1357 » Thu. Dec. 24, 2015 8:23 am

with the new yorker boiler I have to poke and rake every re-load also, or else I get dead spots, and then when I shake it falls through and create's a cavity and fresh coal falls to the grates.
my routine is, shake a little, add coal, let it ketch, then poke and rake, then shake, then top off with coal.


 
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Badger Freezer
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Posts: 90
Joined: Fri. Feb. 27, 2015 12:57 pm
Location: Southwest Wisconsin
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Orbon #244 Tileona Circulator
Coal Size/Type: pea/nut
Other Heating: LP Gas furnace...back-up only

Post by Badger Freezer » Thu. Dec. 24, 2015 9:22 am

I'm not against anyone poking at their fire. I guess it depends on the type of stove you have and what quality of fire you desire. Poking can lead to clinkers, but not always. I was told that not enough ash on the shaker grate tends to warp or embrittle them from too much heat, as will too much ash in the pan. Again, shaking until you see embers in the pan may or may not be too much. I shake my ashes down 2-3" depending on how long it's been since the last shakedown. I don't necessarily look for embers. My stove is old and no parts available anywhere. I don't want warped, broken or burnt out grates. It would defeat the purpose of having such a nice antique to warm my home.
To each their own.

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