Lets talk sighting or zeroing a rifle;
I know zeroing your rifle is a relatively simple process if you know the exact yardage that your target will be. But when hunting, I would imagine there are multiple variables. My assumption at this point is that I will be ranging shots from 75 to 250 yards.
From what I've read so far it seems like there are 2 prevailing zeroing concepts;
1) The 26 yard zero to achieve "point blank" range (which seems to pretty much be the same as the 25 meter military zero I use for my "modern sporting" rifles).
Here is a quick summary:
* "Point blank range defined is the range of distances at which you can hold your rifle on the bullseye and never fall in or out of your target’s kill zone. The point blank range for a deer, for example, is generally regarded as six inches. In other words, if you hold dead center on the vitals, your bullet can be 3 inches high or 3 inches low before it slips out of the vital zone."
*"I found that by zeroing my rifle in at 26 yards, the .270 will deliver its bullet 2.81 inches high at 100 yards, 2.80 inches high at 200 yards and 2.12 inches high at 250 yards before finally falling out of the 6-inch vital zone at 310 yards. This means that with a 26 yard zero, I can hold dead-center of a deer’s vitals and kill it cleanly from 0 to 310 yards without adjusting my hold."
*beware that when zeroing at close range, you must strive for perfection. Place a dime-sized spot on the target and do not deem your rifle “good” until the bullet actually punches that dime on a consistent basis. If you are an inch high or low, or to the left or right, you will be way off at longer range, and it defeats the whole purpose of zeroing in at such a specific range. If you can’t hit the dime at 26 yards, it indicates that your rifle (and/or you) probably isn’t accurate enough to be shooting at long range anyway, because if your rifle is grouping 1-inch at 25 yards, for example, it will likely be 4 inches off at 100 yards and well off the paper at 300. But with the technique mentioned above, you can simply aim for an animal’s vitals out to 300 yards and concentrate on a smooth trigger pull."
You can read it all here http://www.americanhunter.org/articles/ ... ting-zero/
2)The 100 yard zero.
*"Reason number one (to use a 100 yard zero)
is theat parallax adjustment is generally set by the scope manufacturers at 100 yards. Parallax is the bending of light rays by the lenses in the scope so the crosshairs really are somewhere other than where they look like they are.
*"Reason number two? One hundred yards is far enough that if your scope isn’t properly lined up with the bore of your rifle, it will be very evident and you will most likely run out of windage adjustment before the gun is on target. If this happens, stop what you’re doing and go see a gunsmith."
This actually may be the answer;
*"Long story short, when setting up your rifle and scope, shoot at the distance the scope manufacturer adjusts the parallax to, which is usually 100 yards. But zero the gun to the distance that best suits your hunting situation."
you can read where these came from here http://unionsportsmen.org/why-zero-at-100-yards/
My guess is either will work but I thought I'd see if anyone had a strong opinion one way or another or may even have another zeroing tactic.
One additional question; I have heard some say that you should wait some time between shots in order to keep the barrel from getting to warm. Somehow that can effect it's accuracy. I'm assuming that using 3 to 5 shot groups will be needed to zero. I've never done that with any of my other rifles but I never use them to shoot more than 150 yards either...