Clayton 1802G Blower Motor Buzzing

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Mon. Jan. 04, 2016 8:37 pm

Joshua wrote:I actually haven't taken the faulty motor back off again yet - I just left it there thinking that might help cover the hole there when the other blower is running to initially block some air for the other. So do you think I should remove it & block it w/ anything specific ?

& that is awesome glad I can hook those wires in to the other wired up motor to get some type of heat in the house, just mainly been doing gravity feeding heat into the house which is working "OK" but not that good actually. lol tonight is gonna be in the teens ( 18 degrees ) I think so yeah that is gonna be a tough night .

also what would be the price you are charging for that motor just curious to see if I wanted to kick my own butt lol

If bad motor isn't spinning backwards from air pressure I wouldn't worry about it for the few days till your new one arrives.

It's available for $195.00 new in box...lists for $354.00 as you know.
It is not mine, I seen it in the local classified ads today.
I would have helped any way I could of for you to get it.

Joshua · Post by **Joshua** » Mon. Jan. 04, 2016 8:53 pm

Now I feel like throwing up. LOL

Joshua · Post by **Joshua** » Fri. Jan. 08, 2016 12:28 am

Ok I got my new parts including some new 5x5 insulation however it seems the first time I didn't use it apparently because from the look of the instructions here ( http://www.manualslib.com/manual/185202/United-St ... =13#manual );

It is showing item #46 installed first then the junction box is this correct? just push the screws through junction box through the insulation & into the holes on the furnace?

SWPaDon · Post by **SWPaDon** » Fri. Jan. 08, 2016 7:42 am

Yes, it would appear that you push the screws thru the insulation, and screw the junction box to the stove. The insulation shields the fan control from the high heat of the furnace, which can burn it up.