Loose Gasket on the Mark II

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lowfog01
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Joined: Sat. Dec. 20, 2008 8:33 am
Location: Springfield, VA
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Mark II & Mark I
Coal Size/Type: nut/pea

Post by lowfog01 » Sat. Jan. 09, 2016 6:35 pm

Boy, last Wednesday was a day for the books -

First off as I was loading the Mark II in the morning I noticed that a section of the gasket had come off and was drooping below the channel. When I looked closer it was clear the adhesive had failed. The Mark II was no longer air tight.

Bummer, I had to be at work in 10 mins. I was looking at loosing close to 40 lbs of coal not to mention I'd have to turn the furnace on. Then I thought about what I've learned on the forum. Namely, "there are a lot of stoves out there that are not air tight, if I have a strong draft, the small gap shouldn't cause too much of a problem in the short term." I checked the C02 alarms, the draft and opened the windows and went to work.

When I got back a couple of hours later (I work a split shift) there were no alarms going off and the draft was still strong. Now the question was how could I remove the door and replace the gasket without losing the fire. I thought about a post on the forum I'd read that dealt with replacing the glass in the door. In that post the person, covered the stove opening with a piece of metal while the repair was made. So that's what I did.
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I went to the Ace Hardware and brought some metal flashing and cut it to fit the load opening. The Mark II load opening has a lip on the top and bottom which angles out so all I had to do was wedge the metal under those lips. The lips held the metal tightly in place exactly as planned. All that was left of the opening was 1/4 of inch in each corner. The closed Mark II pulls that much over the fire air anyway.

With the metal in place, I was able to pull the door off, allow it to cool during my afternoon shift and replace the gasket when I got home. I got back at 6, replaced the door and was on my way to Williamsburg for the birth of my granddaughter not having lost the fire. What a concept?

Thanks once again to the forum for teaching me how to get the most out of the Marks Brothers. Lisa

 
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davidmcbeth3
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Coal Size/Type: nut/pea/anthra

Post by davidmcbeth3 » Sat. Jan. 09, 2016 7:57 pm

Hillbilly Repair 101 .... Passing grade achieved

Love the pic ... a classic .. just leave it like that ! LOL

 
franco b
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
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Coal Size/Type: nut and pea

Post by franco b » Sat. Jan. 09, 2016 8:01 pm

That piece of metal will also be handy for just opening the door to let it cool in order to clean the glass, and for a wood start up fire to keep the glass clean.


 
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blrman07
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Post by blrman07 » Sat. Jan. 09, 2016 8:14 pm

Yea for outside the box thinking!!!

 
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SWPaDon
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Location: Southwest Pa.
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Clayton 1600M
Coal Size/Type: Bituminous
Other Heating: Oil furnace

Post by SWPaDon » Sat. Jan. 09, 2016 8:31 pm

You done real good :up: :clap:

 
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CoalHeat
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Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
Location: Stillwater, New Jersey
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert

Post by CoalHeat » Sat. Jan. 09, 2016 10:26 pm

Great job Lisa! :D

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