Help Wanted With Hitzer 82FA --- Max Temp Not High

Sounds like your restricter plate has been removed, so no just adjust the chain a few links, balls, to open the flapper a little more when at temp till you reach the temp you want.

CorrosionMan wrote:OK, took off the bimetallic flapper. There was one small bolt/nut holding a small bracket that the damper flap was hanging from.

There is a small magnetic holder on the inside bottom of hole. Other than that, there is nothing else.

Max temp I can get after >2 hours of ash pan door open is about 620f on top right of loading door. Same temp using 2 different magnetic guages.

So, I guess the good thing is I never need to worry about overfiring. Bad thing is I want a bit more for the single digit windy days.

Any suggestions?

This is the part that bothers me. 30 minutes of my ash pan door open, and my furnace is cherry red. I think that goes for most everyone else here also.

If I remember correctly, there was someone on the forum, that had to leave the handle for the direct/indirect draft in the direct draft position to get any heat out of the furnace. Has this been tried?

Yea, tried that overnight. It burned the coal faster and put out less heat.

CorrosionMan wrote:Yea, tried that overnight. It burned the coal faster and put out less heat.

Hmmmmm, weird. Do you have a manometer hook up? I'm curious what your draft reading might be.

I have tried to burn mine with the damper lever up and it seems to only work better when I burn wood. I've read those threads too, and mine works best when I run it the way it was designed to be ran with the lever down. Only reason I run it up with wood is it seems to help keep the stack temps up and have less creosote. How many turns do you have the feed door spinner set on? I run about a turn out.

I've tried anywhere from closed to 2 turns open. It seems to produce more heat for longer at 1/2 turn open or just closed.

I have a triple hypothesis,

1) the blower on takes off enough heat to prevent any overfire potential at my max coal burn rate.

2) my max burn rate with the blower on gets me a max temp on the top right of 600-620F.

3) my newer house is too tight to allow a higher draft to get me even higher burn rates.

Am testing theory 3 right now by opening a close door (15 feet away)

CorrosionMan wrote:I have a triple hypothesis,

1) the blower on takes off enough heat to prevent any overfire potential at my max coal burn rate.

2) my max burn rate with the blower on gets me a max temp on the top right of 600-620F.

3) my newer house is too tight to allow a higher draft to get me even higher burn rates.

Am testing theory 3 right now by opening a close door (15 feet away)

Theory number 3 may require a window open to the outside of the house, if your house is tight.

I read your other posts/threads, the furnace was doing good for a while, then something changed. Need to find out what.

With a full load of coal in that hitzer, and the ash door open for 2 hours, with a good draft......one would expect to see a pile of molten metal on the basement floor.

Well, door open for 30 minutes makes no difference.

Here is the baby.

Manometer is your next option as others said. The draft strength needs checked.

SWPaDon wrote:

CorrosionMan wrote:OK, took off the bimetallic flapper. There was one small bolt/nut holding a small bracket that the damper flap was hanging from.

There is a small magnetic holder on the inside bottom of hole. Other than that, there is nothing else.

Max temp I can get after >2 hours of ash pan door open is about 620f on top right of loading door. Same temp using 2 different magnetic guages.

So, I guess the good thing is I never need to worry about overfiring. Bad thing is I want a bit more for the single digit windy days.

Any suggestions?

This is the part that bothers me. 30 minutes of my ash pan door open, and my furnace is cherry red. I think that goes for most everyone else here also.

If I remember correctly, there was someone on the forum, that had to leave the handle for the direct/indirect draft in the direct draft position to get any heat out of the furnace. Has this been tried?

Some here have found that having the ash door open throws so much air through the bed that although the coal bed gets hot and burns through the coal quickly, the heat goes right up the chimney and doesn't translate to higher stove temps. I think it was because their draft was very strong, but am guessing on that. There seems to be a sweet spot for primary air supply for some installs that if you go past that point the temps either stay the same or even come down a little bit.

OK folks, here was the problem. The bottom 2-3" was covered in this.

What is this crap?!?!

Clinkers

What causes (material) the clinkers?