What Is Best Teeth to Run?

 
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WNY
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Post by WNY » Wed. Jan. 20, 2016 5:38 pm

There's a thread on settings for 520 here.

What Is Best Teeth to Run?
Last edited by WNY on Sat. Apr. 01, 2017 10:47 am, edited 2 times in total.
Reason: Mergred threads.


 
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Post by northernmainecoal » Wed. Jan. 20, 2016 6:14 pm

During the winter I run mine 165 Lo to 180hi

 
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Post by Rob R. » Wed. Jan. 20, 2016 6:36 pm

perch wrote:ok so when it calls for heat I hear circulating pump comes on at 160 deg and shuts down at 150 degrees I wanna keep bumpining teeth up so the water never drops below 150 is that correct?
That depends on if your controls are setup properly. Is your thermostat hooked up to the aquastat on your EFM? Or does it go to a separate relay?

 
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Post by Rob R. » Wed. Jan. 20, 2016 6:41 pm

perch wrote:what is best temp to keep my hi lo at in winter?
You will get lots of opinions on this. Be aware that the type of system hooked to the boiler and the way the controls are setup makes a big difference.

Windyhill has a 520 heating a big load, but the boiler is also in a remote building with no control feedback from the houses, and the houses have water to air heat exchangers on constant circulation...VERY different from thousands of pounds of cast iron radiation and a thermostat that turns the pump on and off.
perch wrote:really 160 isnt enough I never changed it before
If your home has lots of cast iron radiation, 160 may be plenty. Running a higher feed rate and adjusting the bypass to blend some of the hot water into the return will help the boiler recover faster.

In most situations, EFM's recommendation of 160 low and 200 high works very well. A low limit of 160 allows the tankless coil to produce domestic hot water, and the high limit of 200 gives the boiler some headroom for the temperature to creep up after a long burn.

 
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Post by perch » Wed. Jan. 20, 2016 6:55 pm

im leaving at 160 I turned feed to 5 and air to 5 1/2 fire looks great just temp drops to like 145 trying to keep it up over 150 so circulator keeps running it shuts off at 150 till it gets back to 160

 
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Wed. Jan. 20, 2016 7:14 pm

:oops: I never thought of the cast iron radiators, good catch Rob. I guess that comes from yrs of experience with these boilers & their attached systems, OR,a younger mind that remembers & comprehends better. :doh: At least I didn't ask him what temp air was coming out of the vents . toothy

 
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Wed. Jan. 20, 2016 7:16 pm

Perch, I see that you are from somewhere in Pa.,you might be a neighbor or maybe far away. Are you in the path of this proposed snow storm ?


 
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Post by StokerDon » Wed. Jan. 20, 2016 7:22 pm

perch wrote:what is best temp to keep my hi lo at in winter?
If you have a triple aquastat I think the manual says 200 HI, 180 LO ans 10 DIFF. It really depends on how your heating system was designed to run. If you have enough radiation to run at a lower temp and keep the house warm, run it.

About the amount of teeth;

If you are trying to burn less coal by running 4 teeth and your load really calls for 6 teeth, you will use more coal running 4 teeth vs. 6 teeth. The stoker will just run for more hours per day to try to make up for the lack of heat.

Running at the right setting for the load you are trying to heat will use the least amount of coal.

-Don

 
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Post by perch » Wed. Jan. 20, 2016 7:22 pm

yes its supposed to hit fri night sat morning

 
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Post by perch » Wed. Jan. 20, 2016 7:24 pm

don so just keep turning feed and air up till temp stays above 150 and keeps circulating correct?

 
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Post by Rob R. » Wed. Jan. 20, 2016 7:28 pm

perch wrote:don so just keep turning feed and air up till temp stays above 150 and keeps circulating correct?
Please answer my question about the thermostat. Is it hooked to the TT terminals in the aquastat? Circulator is wired off C1/C2 in the aquastat?

 
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Post by Rob R. » Wed. Jan. 20, 2016 7:31 pm

Do you use the tankless coil to produce domestic hot water?

 
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Post by StokerDon » Wed. Jan. 20, 2016 7:33 pm

perch wrote:don so just keep turning feed and air up till temp stays above 150 and keeps circulating correct?
If 150 is your LO setting then the stoker, once it has time to recover from idle, should be able to slowly push the boiler temp up to the HI setting. If you get a heat call and you look at the boiler temp 20 minutes later into the heat call, the temp should be moving up. If not, I would try one more tooth.

-Don

 
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Post by perch » Wed. Jan. 20, 2016 7:43 pm

tt and c1 c2 is the way its hooked up

 
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Post by perch » Wed. Jan. 20, 2016 7:49 pm

no I have electric water heater


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