Another One on Its Way Back to Life
- Pauliewog
- Member
- Posts: 1824
- Joined: Mon. Dec. 02, 2013 12:15 am
- Location: Pittston, Pennsylvania
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska 140 Dual Paddle Feed
- Baseburners & Antiques: Fame Rosemont #20, Home Stove Works #25, Glenwood #6, Happy Thought Oak, Merry Bride #214, Sunnyside, Worlds Argand #114, New Golden Sun , & About 30 others.
- Coal Size/Type: Stove, Chesnut, Pea, Rice / Anthracite
I cast my vote for paint first then stove polish.
Paulie
Paulie
-
- Member
- Posts: 4197
- Joined: Wed. Oct. 03, 2012 9:53 am
- Location: Western Massachusetts
- Baseburners & Antiques: Crawford 40, PP Stewart No. 14, Abendroth Bros "Record 40"
- Coal Size/Type: Stove / Anthracite.
- Other Heating: Oil fired, forced hot air.
NickleD.lapan wrote:New barrel rolled, paint or polish on this virgin?
-
- Member
- Posts: 771
- Joined: Sun. Jan. 18, 2015 9:40 pm
- Location: plainfield NH
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: newmac wood,coal,oil como
- Baseburners & Antiques: 20th century laurel, glenwood hickory,crawford fairy
- Coal Size/Type: nut, stove
- Contact:
Now that would be blindingscalabro wrote:NickleD.lapan wrote:New barrel rolled, paint or polish on this virgin?
- tmbrddl
- Member
- Posts: 259
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 14, 2012 11:57 pm
- Location: Houlton, Maine
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Oak 30, Oak Andes 216
- Coal Size/Type: nut/stove
Log or stick built? I've been building one off grid in northern Maine.D.lapan wrote:I'm building a off grid cabin in northern Vermont and this is going to heat it next winter but will probably only burn wood
Attachments
-
- Member
- Posts: 771
- Joined: Sun. Jan. 18, 2015 9:40 pm
- Location: plainfield NH
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: newmac wood,coal,oil como
- Baseburners & Antiques: 20th century laurel, glenwood hickory,crawford fairy
- Coal Size/Type: nut, stove
- Contact:
Stick, friend of mine has a mill so its all ruff cut with post and beam style cathedral ceiling with a loft on one side 16x24
Attachments
- tmbrddl
- Member
- Posts: 259
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 14, 2012 11:57 pm
- Location: Houlton, Maine
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Oak 30, Oak Andes 216
- Coal Size/Type: nut/stove
Do you plan on living there or is it just a weekend getaway? I hope to live in mine if I can get it comfortable enough for the wife to consider.D.lapan wrote:Stick, friend of mine has a mill so its all ruff cut with post and beam style cathedral ceiling with a loft on one side 16x24
Pretty little stove you have there. Oil prices plummeted and we now have a new parrot so the wife doesn't want to risk gassing the bird...I'm coal-free this year. It's killing me.
- SWPaDon
- Member
- Posts: 9857
- Joined: Sun. Nov. 24, 2013 12:05 pm
- Location: Southwest Pa.
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Clayton 1600M
- Coal Size/Type: Bituminous
- Other Heating: Oil furnace
Tell her not to worry, if the bird dies from 'gasses', you two are goners within the hour.tmbrddl wrote:Do you plan on living there or is it just a weekend getaway? I hope to live in mine if I can get it comfortable enough for the wife to consider.D.lapan wrote:Stick, friend of mine has a mill so its all ruff cut with post and beam style cathedral ceiling with a loft on one side 16x24
Pretty little stove you have there. Oil prices plummeted and we now have a new parrot so the wife doesn't want to risk gassing the bird...I'm coal-free this year. It's killing me.
-
- Member
- Posts: 771
- Joined: Sun. Jan. 18, 2015 9:40 pm
- Location: plainfield NH
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: newmac wood,coal,oil como
- Baseburners & Antiques: 20th century laurel, glenwood hickory,crawford fairy
- Coal Size/Type: nut, stove
- Contact:
We will be spending weekends and some weeks there.. it is 1 hour from my home but the nearest house is 4 miles away and that is where the power stops. Ill have some marine battery and solar panels with a inverter "on my way to cabelas in Scarborough now to buy it" so ill have the oak in the corner and a rinnai l.p. heater on the other wall in case I let it go out, what will you heat yours with?tmbrddl wrote:Do you plan on living there or is it just a weekend getaway? I hope to live in mine if I can get it comfortable enough for the wife to consider.D.lapan wrote:Stick, friend of mine has a mill so its all ruff cut with post and beam style cathedral ceiling with a loft on one side 16x24
Pretty little stove you have there. Oil prices plummeted and we now have a new parrot so the wife doesn't want to risk gassing the bird...I'm coal-free this year. It's killing me.
- tmbrddl
- Member
- Posts: 259
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 14, 2012 11:57 pm
- Location: Houlton, Maine
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Oak 30, Oak Andes 216
- Coal Size/Type: nut/stove
I picked up an Oak Andes just for the cabin that has been sitting in the garage awaiting restoration. That's not cast in stone but I'll definitely burn coal. I may take the Glenwood Oak 30 I have here at the house and hook it up or I might continue to search and find something altogether different. Don't know yet.D.lapan wrote:what will you heat yours with?
BTW, my cabin is 24' by 30'. Yours?
- deepwoods
- Member
- Posts: 616
- Joined: Fri. Aug. 29, 2008 10:21 am
- Location: north central pa.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93 & DS Machine Newstyle Champion
- Coal Size/Type: nut (so far)
- Other Heating: Ruud propane forced air system
I am facing a new barrel install and have a question about "pickling" or etching the exterior before painting. It has been said this method helps paint to adhere to new steel. Wonder if there are products on the market for doing that?Pauliewog wrote:I cast my vote for paint first then stove polish.
Paulie
-
- Member
- Posts: 771
- Joined: Sun. Jan. 18, 2015 9:40 pm
- Location: plainfield NH
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: newmac wood,coal,oil como
- Baseburners & Antiques: 20th century laurel, glenwood hickory,crawford fairy
- Coal Size/Type: nut, stove
- Contact:
I lightly sanded mine with a scotch bright pad and painted it with a high temp paint then this morning I put a coat of polish on it.deepwoods wrote:I am facing a new barrel install and have a question about "pickling" or etching the exterior before painting. It has been said this method helps paint to adhere to new steel. Wonder if there are products on the market for doing that?Pauliewog wrote:I cast my vote for paint first then stove polish.
Paulie
- Sunny Boy
- Member
- Posts: 25517
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 11, 2013 1:40 pm
- Location: Central NY
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Anthracite Industrial, domestic hot water heater
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood range 208, # 6 base heater, 2 Modern Oak 118.
- Coal Size/Type: Nuts !
- Other Heating: Oil &electric plenum furnace
A lot of new sheet metal has a light coating of oil to protect it. All new metal should be first cleaned with a solvent such as mineral spirits everywhere it will be receiving paint.
Sanding will help paint adhere, but not if oil gets driven into the sanding scratches in the metal's surface, so only sand after cleaning the metal with solvent.
After all traces of oil are removed there are metal etching solutions. Usually easier to find in painters or autobody supply houses.
Before the days of store bought acid etch metal prep solutions, sign painters used to wipe down new mild steel sheet metal with house-hold white vinegar to lightly etch the surface. Which is also much less expensive than the metal etch solutions. The old timers refereed to it as giving the new surface, "some tooth" to better hold paint. The etching is on an almost microscopic scale but so is paint adhesion, so don't worry if the surface doesn't look as roughed up as sanding it does.
Then follow the vinegar wipe-down with warm water rinse to remove any vinegar which is easy water soluble. Imerdiatly dry the surface with towels.
Dust off the surface to remove any towel lint.
Paul
Sanding will help paint adhere, but not if oil gets driven into the sanding scratches in the metal's surface, so only sand after cleaning the metal with solvent.
After all traces of oil are removed there are metal etching solutions. Usually easier to find in painters or autobody supply houses.
Before the days of store bought acid etch metal prep solutions, sign painters used to wipe down new mild steel sheet metal with house-hold white vinegar to lightly etch the surface. Which is also much less expensive than the metal etch solutions. The old timers refereed to it as giving the new surface, "some tooth" to better hold paint. The etching is on an almost microscopic scale but so is paint adhesion, so don't worry if the surface doesn't look as roughed up as sanding it does.
Then follow the vinegar wipe-down with warm water rinse to remove any vinegar which is easy water soluble. Imerdiatly dry the surface with towels.
Dust off the surface to remove any towel lint.
Paul
- deepwoods
- Member
- Posts: 616
- Joined: Fri. Aug. 29, 2008 10:21 am
- Location: north central pa.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93 & DS Machine Newstyle Champion
- Coal Size/Type: nut (so far)
- Other Heating: Ruud propane forced air system
The white vinegar sounds fine. That's what I will try. Will wipe down with Acetone before applying vinegar. This is the only new metal (steel) this stove will receive. I have used a mix of sandblasting and Muriatic acid bath for cleaning all the cast iron followed by strong baking soda bath then acetone wipe down. Thanks Paul!Sunny Boy wrote:A lot of new sheet metal has a light coating of oil to protect it. All new metal should be first cleaned with a solvent such as mineral spirits everywhere it will be receiving paint.
Sanding will help paint adhere, but not if oil gets driven into the sanding scratches in the metal's surface, so only sand after cleaning the metal with solvent.
After all traces of oil are removed there are metal etching solutions. Usually easier to find in painters or autobody supply houses.
Before the days of store bought acid etch metal prep solutions, sign painters used to wipe down new mild steel sheet metal with house-hold white vinegar to lightly etch the surface. Which is also much less expensive than the metal etch solutions. The old timers refereed to it as giving the new surface, "some tooth" to better hold paint. The etching is on an almost microscopic scale but so is paint adhesion, so don't worry if the surface doesn't look as roughed up as sanding it does.
Then follow the vinegar wipe-down with warm water rinse to remove any vinegar which is easy water soluble. Imerdiatly dry the surface with towels.
Dust off the surface to remove any towel lint.
Paul