should I install manual damper in flue pipe

should I install manual damper in flue pipe

PostBy: scottf On: Fri Apr 04, 2008 3:11 pm

I have recently purchased a hand fired antique coal / wood burning stove that I had completely refubished. It is a Geneva Oak cylinder style stove built in 1904. It has regular coal grates and came with a wood grate that goes over those. My question is this . The restorer / dealer said that I should install a manual damper in the flue when I pipe the stove into my masonry chimney. Should I install a manual damper or are the supply air intakes, of which there are 3, (two below the grate and one above) sufficient for controlling heat loss out of the chimney. I will be burning both coal and wood in the stove at different times of the year. I have lots of free firewood that I will burn in the fall and the spring nights only because no one is home during the day. In the dead of winter I will switch to coal. Also my wife will be operating the stove sometimes and I dont want to add a damper if it is not necessary because of a possible carbon monoxide danger. She is not adept at technical things such as this. I dont want to put the family in danger. Anybody have an opinion whether I should install a manual damper or not? Thanks for any advice
Scott
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Re: should I install manual damper in flue pipe

PostBy: LsFarm On: Fri Apr 04, 2008 4:44 pm

Hi Scott, you may want to read this topic: Manual pipe dampers .. how, why, when

Most of those older style stoves had a lot of leaks, hopefully yours has all the doors fitting very tight, the sections sealed with furnace cement and the air-draft controls will seal off the stove well enough to control the draft.

When those stoves were new, everybody knew how to safely use a manual damper. And homes 'back then' had a lot of infiltration, poor windows, and in general lots of air leaks supplying the house with lots of fresh air.. If your home is pretty tight, with good windows, weather strippiing, etc,, then the amount of fresh air is greatly reduced..

Since you are planing on burning wood, the use of a barometric damper is pretty much ruled out, because of creosote deposits on the flapper door will change the baro's callibration.. If you were going to burn only coal,, I'd recommend a barometric damper.

With wood, you may have to have a manual damper, especially if your stove is not airtight enough to control the fire otherwise. If you have a draft issue with wood, it will tell you: wood smoke stinks, burns the nose and eyes.. But when you burn coal... I'd keep the damper wide open.. and make sure you have several CO detectors around the house.

Since adding a hand damper is quite easy,, maybe it would be best to just try the stove without it first... and see if you can control the fire to your liking..

Greg L
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