Harman Markii Modification

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cn670
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Post by cn670 » Wed. Feb. 24, 2016 3:42 pm

I've read posts on mods to mark seriers stoves. People have added fire bricks and bi metal damper. Otherwise no big changes. I've been using a mark II and I'm thinking of a radical addition to the stove. It seems to send a bunch of heat right up the pipe. I've watched the blue lady's dance and poof ,right up to the top of the the stove and gone. No hang time to speak of. The short height of the stove and lacking baffle seem only offer brief heat transfer. My thoughts are to cut the top off and add 18 to 24 inches of height to the stove and a different baffle. Any suggestions would be welcome.

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Wed. Feb. 24, 2016 3:55 pm

Direct / Indirect Exhaust Diverter

Cool! In addition to extending the stove cavity vertically, I suggest a diverter. The link above shows what I designed and installed in my Clayton which has a very tall fire box. When the diverter door is closed it forces the hot gases to give up some of their heat before descending and exiting the lower outlet at the bottom of the diverter. It's made a substantial difference in efficiency.

After loading I will run it in direct draft until the flue pipe reaches 300 degrees. Upon closing the diverter door the pipe temp falls rapidly and the stove temperature soars upward, evidence that it's doing its intended job. :)

 
titleist1
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Post by titleist1 » Wed. Feb. 24, 2016 4:03 pm

They put something they called the spiral chamber on the top of some of the older SF stoves. What you are talking about is similar to that if I understand your idea correctly.


 
scalabro
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Post by scalabro » Wed. Feb. 24, 2016 4:45 pm

cn670 wrote:I've read posts on mods to mark seriers stoves. People have added fire bricks and bi metal damper. Otherwise no big changes. I've been using a mark II and I'm thinking of a radical addition to the stove. It seems to send a bunch of heat right up the pipe. I've watched the blue lady's dance and poof ,right up to the top of the the stove and gone. No hang time to speak of. The short height of the stove and lacking baffle seem only offer brief heat transfer. My thoughts are to cut the top off and add 18 to 24 inches of height to the stove and a different baffle. Any suggestions would be welcome.
Buy a base burner and be done with it.

 
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BlackBetty06
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Post by BlackBetty06 » Wed. Feb. 24, 2016 8:27 pm

Buy a manual pipe damper for 6 bucks and slow the flue gases down

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Thu. Feb. 25, 2016 6:08 am

BlackBetty06 wrote:Buy a manual pipe damper for 6 bucks and slow the flue gases down
Manual pipe damper is the first thing I thought of as well.


 
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cn670
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Post by cn670 » Thu. Feb. 25, 2016 6:57 am

Lightning, titelist, on the same track of thinking.

Scalabro , this stove is in the garage. The lady of the house has taken a liking to the thought of a base burner in the house. She likes the bling of Nickel ..... So I'll be hunting one down :D She would go insane mode if something like that was out in the garage .....

I already have MPD set up. The swirl technology of this stove has a mear 3 1/4 " between the baffle and the top of the the stove then only 8" to the exhaust...... My thought is to add about 10 foot of radiating surface to the stove, and a baffle system.

 
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windyhill4.2
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Thu. Feb. 25, 2016 8:32 am

It would be less intrusive & less permanent & easier to make a "backpipe" for your stove. If you have a strong drafting chimney,having a backpipe to divert the exhaust downward b4 allowing it to go upward should extract a fair amount of the heat from the exhaust stream.

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